When applying UV Blast as a top coat should the curing process be done for the final step and what is the cure time and temp for it?
Hey you just dip in that after the color and cure at same time and I cure at same temp as the color on mine. It's just like a clear coat.
Skip
Peak Vise Dealer Tying Materials, Chenille and Hackle For Pictures of my Crystal, Nylon/Rayon or New Age Chenille Please PM Me! Also I have the Saltwater Neck Hackle and some colors of Marabou plus other things![/color]
Can anyone give me any tips on the pumkin brown powder coat. It runs when I cure it in the oven. I've tried lower temp, shorter time, lighter coats on the jig head. I've baked around 10 colors and have had no problems with any other color.
I do not use that color, but I also know some colors seem not need the lead to have been in the fire as long as another one. So ones I know are prone to get too much paint on, I just hold in the fire a little less time and seems to work fine for me. I do not change my heat or time in over ever unless I am using Pearl White which demands a lower temp! I keep my temp between 390 and 400 and have actually put a thermometer in my toaster oven so I would know where it has to be set to reach the themes I want. If I use my large oven then I just use it's settings, but the small ovens are usually not accurate on temps. So I also know if I take a load out and put a new load in it's cooled and will take almost 2 minutes to reach temp so I cure for 17 minutes as I need 15 minutes with the lead at themes as that is what that means, the lead need to be at that temp to cure right.
So for that color I would just find how long I need leave it in the fire/heat to determine the right amount of paint so it downs drip! Way back when I started I seemed to always have trouble with Black dripping so finally I just adjusted the length of time in the fire and a 2 count. I count not by real seconds, but more just my cadence.
Skip
Peak Vise Dealer Tying Materials, Chenille and Hackle For Pictures of my Crystal, Nylon/Rayon or New Age Chenille Please PM Me! Also I have the Saltwater Neck Hackle and some colors of Marabou plus other things![/color]
I have always cured mine and I believe in it. I don't want to go through the process of heating lead and paint any more than I have to so may as well do it right the first time. If you bother to take enough time to use powder paint then use the extra time to help seal the deal with curing. It's worth it as others have said for dock shooting and bouncing off rocks, etc.
Toaster oven at a garage sale and around 350 for most just depends on the color and the manufacturer. I have used black from one manufacturer and it ran at 275 and anther I could get away with 350 in the same color. Get to know your toaster oven as Skip has said with a thermometer to know what is truly going on.
After trying nearly 10 different colors I have found that I actually prefer an unpainted jig head. I get more bites with it...or so I feel like I do. Maybe I should try silver and see if I like that. Anybody else just use an unpainted jig head?
Just saw this. I use unpainted heads 95% of the time and probably 80% of my sales are unpainted. I think it's a confidence thing more than anything else. That's just my opinion.
When I'm retired, I'll definitely think about having my own 'lil shop' and making/baking my own jig heads. Cheaper I'm sure and self-satisfying to catch fish on a jig you made.
Until then, I'll just get mine from Jerry, Slab, or Academy.
Eric -------------------------------------------------- "Fishing is to work, what aspirin is to headaches" 'Fighting Texas Aggies Class of 93' Wanna-be senior meteorologist for the NWS in Fort Worth
You guys are prefectionist. I am lazy so I quit painting mind 20+ years ago and couldn't tell any difference in numbers or size caught. I don't sell to the public like some of you and I realize that makes a big difference. I am ready for the weather to change for the better. Daniel
Jig clamp is the way to go (see photo above by TreeBass) or you can buy something similar if you have more money than time... https://tjstackle.com/jigclamp.htm
Either way, it does help a great deal to omit paint nipple on jigheads when hanging. NOTE: ALWAYS clean jigeyes prior to baking, this would save you so much time and headaches...
I dip my heads in Protech paint but I do not bake them. Baking is only needed if your casting to rocks or skipping docks. Most times you will lose the jig to a brushpile way before the paint starting chipping off the head. I have small section of tackle box with cured heads just in case I need them.
Just switch to using Stardust and your troubles of chipping, fluid beds, clearcoating and glueing eyes are gone,,,just heat, dip, reheat, install eyes before powder cools and your done! I really don’t know exact numbers as far as how much better this stuff is, but I’d be willing to bet around 10x more durable then powdercoat,,,,this is basically melted rubber over a hot jig, this new paint is awesome!