I am no trailer mechanic but it sounds like you have air trapped in the hub.

Have question I just redid all my bearings and seal on my trailer but I have one seal that is leaking grease. All have bearing Buddy's and 3 out of 4 are holding grease. is there a way to fix the one seal?

Pull the wheel hub back off and inspect the seal..sometimes you can bend/damage the seal when you put the hub back on after packing the bearings. A lot of seals have circular springs around the inside of the seal lips and the spring can get knocked off, which will cause leakage. Carefully inspect the spindle where the seal lips run, if there are deep grooves, you're gonna need a Speed-Sleeve repair or a new spindle. I would have a new seal ready when I take the hub off.

Seals are not all the same. I put a new set of bearings and seals on my little trailer and in no time, the bearings were full of saltwater. I took everytyhing apart, cleaned the bearings, repacked them and installed new seals I bought at a local auto parts store, that sells trailer parts. The new seals were vastly more heavy duty and looked way better than the Chinese ones I had originally used. They have held up well. I also bought Bearing Buddies, because the (cheap-o) dust caps that came with my bearing kits obviously leaked saltwater in from the get-go. My friend in the trailer business told me that ALL small bearings now come from China, and the quality runs from poor to horrible You need to look at the parts yourself. Islandjim

You're right on that one. There are a lot of cheap deals available; especially online. Unfortunately some Of the auto parts stores will also have an inexpensive line of seals. If you can, purchase seals from a top-tier brand Such as Chicago Rawhide, National, Timken, etc.. I paid over $10.00 per seal for 4 National #473317 and could have bought a set of 4 Chinese knock-offs for less than $10 bucks at an auto parts store.... false economy because the cheapies didn't even have the specified double-lip design.

I have oil bath hubs on my Champion Trailer and have heard to use 75W-90 gear oil which I have. I can no longer see through the view windows. Is there a way to clean them or should I just fill the hub completely with oil.

I've melted two hubs and it wasn't from lacking service on the. Last time I replaced them
with Lucus marine hubs. Year and a half no water in them. I take that back. I tightened the
cap to much and got a small crack. Called them and received two new caps and two new seals.

Water tight! I check them about every 4th trip to the lake. I don't work for or with them.
Just love to spread the news if it will keep someone else from being stranded with a burnt up hub.

Good luck !

PM sent

I use Bel Ray Waterproof bearing grease on all wheel bearings now.

The Champion boat I bought last year has oil bath hubs on it. So far, no leaks.

Wayne

Using a torque wrench to tighten the nut on a trailer hub, what is the correct pounds of torque pressure? My G3 boat trailer does not have a cotter pin.

thank you

Don't use torque wrench on castle nuts. From what I have read you snug them up and then back off one notch. Spin the tire and check to make sure it spins freely and does not wobble. This works for me.

My trailer owner manual list torque down and back off and finger tight then for the castle nut. I had a flatbed trailer last year I replaced a shelled hub and tightened the castle nut, test ran it up the road a mile and back and checked the hub and it was searing hot to the touch. This will not last long, never over tighten the castle nut.

you can wet sand them with a headlight restore kit. Also change from 90 weight gear lube to Lucas hub oil, thats stuff is great and you won't have to worry about leaky hubs in the future.

Old school folks will say to do it by hand and that there is a feel. I am sure there is but I don’t know what that feel is and I work on cars for fun. Don’t see many tapered roller bearings on vehicles anymore.

When I changed my trailer bearings from vaults to regular old bearings with buddy bearings I used this method I found online and has worked well.

Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.
https://www.championtrailers.com/pre-loading-trailer-wheel-bearings/