Getting tired head , twenty pound invisx on everything but top water .... Done.

There is a definate difference in line size, type line and from brand to brand. Can anyone guess what that is? It's whatever you are comfortable with. Whatever makes you confident. NOW, with that said, I have perticular reels that I feel function better with one line over another. Also, IMO when fishing in extreme cold temperatures, 15# InvisX works better for me than 20#. There are four main considerations to take into account: sensitivity, memory, abrasion resistance and strength. YOU must decide what this priority is, for whatever application you are fishing and again what gives you the best confidence. With all tis said, I would not go to Falcon Lake with 10 pound test!

What about CXX?

What about it?

use 6-8lb floro here, ur askin for a heartbreak

Honestly do you think fish can tell a 2lb difference in a line that's invisible underwater? Also there's not many lakes around that are that clear .I only like fluidity because it sinks for cramming I've gone back to basics and pretty much throw all mono except for my frog and c rig witch I throw braid on the c rig I use a fluoro leader

CXX is a good line in some circumstances. Personally, I view CXX is a much less desirable choice for crankbaits that CX, and other �slim diameter� lines. CXX is a �fat line,� by which I mean that for a given pound test rating it has a much larger than standard line diameter for that rating. Conversely, a �slim line� is a line that has a significantly small diameter for a given pound test rating than is standard for that pound test rating. What�s important for crankbait lines is that be of high tensile strength, and as small in diameter as you can get while still maintaining the need breaking strength.

CXX is very large in diameter for the pound test rating that it is given by P-line, and is in fact very much under-rated in terms of actually breaking strength. If you match CXX in line diameter with CX the breaking strength of CX will actually be just a bit higher. It�s not the rated pound test that�s important nearly so much as the line diameter.




You�re not considering other factors than visibility of the line to the fish. Smaller diameter line has less hydro-dynamic resistance than larger diameter line. Thus, the smaller diameter line will allow a given crankbait (all other factors being equal) to dive to a greater depth than a larger diameter line. The other thing is that line vibration is an issue as well. When fishing a soft plastic weightless line vibration is not that much of a factor because your line is not under much tension. However, when retrieving a crankbait your line is under very much more tension. This means the line is at least fairly taunt, and that the line is going to vibrate to some degree. The vibrations of your line in such conditions is not negligible. Bass are capable of picking-up this vibration, and it is best to reduce this vibration as much as possible. Again, smaller diameter line due to it�s lower hydro-dynamic resistance is going to produce less vibration than larger diameter line with it�s attendant greater hydro-dynamic resistance.

Finally, having a line that is �stretchy� is a good thing with any bait that has treble hooks as it helps keep the fish from throwing the bait. It�s the same principal as using a lower power rod with a medium action.

The dropshot is a whole nother kettle of angling however. Less stretch is where it�s at when dropshoting. My advice on dropshoting is go with a GOOD fluorocarbon, preferable 14 pound test or less Sunline Shooter if you�re using baitcasting gear. The dropshot started as a finesse technique done with very light line (in terms of bass fishing) and spinning gear. Here in East Texas it has been modified into a power technique with heavier line and gear.

Anything above 8 pound test line is NOT a finesse technique. So you�re really talking more of a power technique when you�re fishing at the LOTP. Given that, then I�d advise going with Sunline Shooter in 20 pound test. This as Shooter is the lowest stretch 100% fluorocarbon that I know of, and it has a line diameter that is about what is standard for 14-15 pound test lines.

TFP

All I'm sayin is I've seen plenty of big fish comin off straight braid my own 9.7 came of braid and I don't think she cared... Also do you think all the pros look at it from a scientific view? I think they just go with what they know and what makes them confident in catching fish...bottom line confidence is key.

For light baits, light line makes a huge difference in how the bait works. A little 4 to 6 inch worm thats 15 to 20 foot down has better action on 6 pound line than 12 or 14. Why kill the action?



I don't see a good argument for using heavier than 10 pound test unless its because of the cover I'm fishing.

I don't really call it finesse fishing unless I'm using 6 to 10 pound line on anyway.

I totally agree. Braid in turbid water is not a problem in terms of observability in such conditions. Further, braid has a very small diameter relative to standard line diameters for given pound test ratings for copolymer, and mono lines.

I would add that I�ve seen a five pound bass caught in very clear water on a wacky-wormed Cheeto, as well as some other weird stuff. That does not, however, negate, nor attenuate the fact that line with lower observability increase the probability of a strike.

I certainly won�t argue that experience is a fine guide to tackle choices when fishing. I was not trying to address specifics to to particular situations with respect to line selection, but rather provide a broad, and general answer to the original post.


TFP

yea your right. Good call. Thank you