I just want to verify my wiring before I do so with my new batteries. Does the pic below look correct.

looks like a red x to me.

Humm shows up fine on others pc's. Must be your pc/isp. But just in case.

http://grangergang.com/photos/wiring.jpg

Why are you wanting to connect #1 & #2 batteries? I just installed a new tm and it said never put the tm to the cranking battery in any way. Something about possible grounds causing corrosion.

curious as to why you need the switch as well. What's the value in putting the TM batteries on the switch/tied into the cranking battery?

I personally have my cranking battery isolated. Not sure how well a boat motor will charge multiple batteries and on that set up you sort of have a series connection tied to a parallel connection. I'd just disco the TM batteries from the switch.

I keep my cranking battery on a switch, a seperate battery on another switch for accessories/nav lights etc, then my two TM batteries wired together for the 24v system.

The wiring diagram you have has one of the TM batteries available as a backup for the cranking battery. In the BOTH position the motor would charge both (but not the third battery) AND it would drain all three when the trolling motor is being used. In the 1 or 2 position it would use (and charge) battery one or two, but not battery three. Your description sounds like you have a fourth battery on another switch.

I Want it in the config for the case where when i have a long day fishing and i have both graphs running, the livewell (with timer) and it drains the main battery. I can flip my Switch and start on the other or use both if I have been using the trolling motor all day. This keep sme from having to swap leads or hook up my jumper cables to the batts. Technicaly the batteries are issolated unless I have the switch turned to "Both". I am not expecting the motor to charge both while running. I know it will only charge the batt on the one I have it switched to or both batts when I have it on "both". (Like CCW said) To add a second main battery I would have to put it under the CC and run some 12' leads to the back. After Spending $300+ on 3 new batts; a 4th batt is not in the budget right now.

So for now this works for me.

And ..... in case ya'll were wondering I do have a 10 amp per each 3 bank charger that is connected to each of the batteries directly.

Hmmm, guess that makes sense.

I would put another Perko on-off on the - jumper on batt 1 & batt 2. It is not a good idea to connect a parallel circuit into a series curcuit even on one side. Can cause electrolysis, battery charging and battery drain problems.

For the number of times you probably run down your cranking battery I would not add the perko and all the extra wiring and just make a short pair of jumper cables and keep them in the boat.

You will get electroylsis with this setup. This setup has you connecting the ground to the battery that is not carrying the trolling motor ground, which will cause electroylis. Also, if your trolling motor has the US2 from MinnKota, it cannot share a ground in any way with the accessory battery (usually the cranking battery). The US2 internally grounds the depthfinder to help eliminate interferance. Sharing a ground can cause a short through the US2 transducer, the depthfinder, or both.
John

Probably a lot of users confused about how this can occur. Is there anyway that you could show with a little diagram how the short could happen?

I cant draw what you want to see but I will confirm what he mentioned about the US2. I just installed one and in every possible way it says DO NOT connect to the cranking battery. Electricity can be a finicky thing. I have seen electricians ground the house wiring to the copper pipes in the slab and in a couple years the negative ions will eat up the copper from electrolysis. Power runs in everything, even the ground.

Havn't had a chance to draw a diagram, but maybe you can follow it this way. There are two grounds involved in a 24V system -- the main ground that comes from battery A and supplies the trolling motor and the ground from battery B that connects to the positive of Battery A. On the accessory battery it also has a ground that runs the accessories and the outboard. The US2 in internally grounded to the case to shunt the ground and eliminate interference. This case ground transfers to the ground side of the light coming from the control board and is ultimately the ground from battery A. Now, if you should happen to connect anything parallel from the cranking battery to battery B, then you are also connecting that ground to the hot side of battery A (remember the jumper), which will take the ground from battery A, through the trolling motor, through the US2, through the depth finder back to ground of the cranking/accessory battery and to the negative of battery B, jumped to positive of battery A, therefore getting a short through the Depth finder/US2. To keep someone from connecting to the "wrong" ground, it is better said to not share a ground from the trolling motor batteries to the cranking battery.
John