These threads will be used for information on each selected brand of SONAR. As of right now they will remain unlocked so that someone with questions can ask and hopefully receive the help they need. Please respect the idea behind these and keep the cross brand fighting out. If it becomes an issue the threads will be locked.


looks like we got it rolling, thanks Jason for adding all the links and everyone else for getting this started.

Feel free to add pictures from your Lowrance unit, or if you are a Lowrance Guru feel free to help us get this thread going

Here are some photos

Sandies, hybrids, or stripers?

Pick 1,3 ,4 5 are sandies
Pick 2 is hybrids

Remarkable. Looking at the first pic, the "downscan" part, do you suppose the hazy cloud that extends from just above the fish to the surface is bait, or prop wash or some other form of interference?

Probaly prop wash,, i think that picture was taken before i changed a setting to elimate most of that.

Helpful links for your Lowrance unit.

***Lowrance link to support and self support.****
http://www.lowrance.com/Support/

Link to Lei-Extra for Your source for Lowrance and Eagle accessories.
http://www.lei-extras.com/store/default.asp

********Lowrance How to video's.**********
http://www.lowrance.com/Support/Video-Library/MARINE/How-Tos/

HDS video's and Structure Scan video's
http://www.hightechfishing.com/

Doc Samson Lowrance HDS instructional DVD
http://doctorsonar.com/catalog/

+++++++++++++++++++

GPS Module Issues

GPS Module Not Responding
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/GPS/GPS_Module_Not_Responding.pdf

GPS Module Overview
http://bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/GPS/GPS_Modules_Info.pdf

NMEA 2000 Networking

NMEA 2000 Starter Kit
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/Newtorking/NMEA_2000_Networking_Starter_Kit.pdf

NMEA 2000 Networking Overview
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/Newtorking/Networking_Overview.pdf

How To Guides

Enable Structure Scan
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/fil...n_Simulator.pdf

Create Waypoint
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/HDS/How_To_Create_a_Waypoint_on_HDS_Unit.pdf

Create Waypoint from Sonar Page
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/fil...on_HDS_Unit.pdf

Change GPS Antenna Selection
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/fil...on_HDS_Unit.pdf

Add Data Overlay on HDS unit
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/HDS/How_to_Add_Overlay_Data_on_HDS_Units.pdf

Turn on Trails and Change Options
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/fil...ions_on_HDS.pdf

Save Waypoints to MMC/SD Card on HDS Units
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/HDS/Save_Waypoints_to_SD_on_HDS_Unit.pdf

Load Waypoints from MMC/SD Card on HDS Units
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/HDS/Load_Waypoints_From_SD_to_HDS_Unit.pdf


HDS Mapping Choices
http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/HDS/HDS_Mapping_Choices.pdf

for more helpful hints check out this link too:
http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread?id=282434

Can anyone tell me if:
When installing an LSS-1, the installation instructions state to run the yellow wire thru a switch. I was told that I could draw the power for the Yellow FROM the Yellow wire coming from the HDS7 mounted on the console. Is the Yellow wire coming from the HDS7 a constant 12v or is it momentary? If momentary, can I use that thru a relay to provide the 12v to the LSS-1? I want the LSS-1 to turn on with the HDS7 on the console ( interlinked with the HDS5 on the bow )!

You can hook up the yellow wire from the lss-1 box pwr cord to acc. switch from your console or tie it in with your yellow wire that comes off your pwr cord. The yellow wire is a remote pwr wire..when you unit is on its goes live. thus pwr up your lss-1.

The yellow wire from my head unit is only signal voltage. It isnt constant. Should it be? Is something amiss here? (Unless ive got a bad connection, I guess I should check THAT out again).

Networking HDS Models with NMEA2000
The Diagram below shows adding an external antenna, which is optional. If you are not hooking up an external antenna get rid of the extra Tee in the diagram.
Please note if you are only interested in waypoint sharing all you need to do is connect the two HDS units with an Ethernet cable. No NMEA Network is required unless you are using network sensors like temperature, fuel, interface cables or an external gps module.
The NMEA Network is totally expandable, just remove the terminator, add a Tee to plug in your new sensor and replace the terminator back on the new end. It's that easy!

Two HDS units Networked
* if you are still using an older LMS or LCX unit which is networked to an HDS unit it can still power the nmea network through its power cable. (HDS units can not do this) If you are switching to all HDS units you have to buy the NMEA Power node to power the network, shown in the diagram below







Some boats come pre-rigged withe NMEA2000 network backbone from the boat manufacturer and may use a Power Node to supply power the network. This Power Node is hooked directly into a Tee in the network bus. If your boat has one of these on the network DO NOT power the NMEA power wires from either graph (LCX and LMS). It is already done. Powering it twice will cause damage to the Module

Parts needed to network two HDS Models:

1) NMEA Starter kit: N2K-EXP-RD-2 (#124-69)
kit includes: Includes 2 terminating resistors (TR-120M-RD, TR-120F-RD),
two T-connectors (N2K-T-RD), one 2 ft extension cable (N2KEXT-2RD),
and one 15 ft extension cable (N2KEXT-15RD), and a power node (N2K-PWR-RD).
$51.99*

1) T connector, N2K-T-RD #119-79 $14.99







***Lowrance Reset Procedures***
The reset procedures below work with most newer LMS units, also with LCX and HDS units. If you want a pdf with reset procedures for all models go to Lowrance website and type in Lowrance Resets in the support page self help search field.

A reset usually clears up missing pages and menu items, it reorganizes the software when a problem occurs. It may correct gps connectivity problems as well as transducer problems. Always try the soft reset first and see if your problems are corrected before moving on to the hard reset.
Always shut down the unit with its own power button and never by unplugging it or disconnecting the power supply from the battery. This causes problems and is one of the main reasons resets are needed.

******Soft Reset****
Power unit down, press pages key and power key, hold keys until USA map appears. This will not delete waypoints or other user saved data.

******Hard Reset*****
This method will delete waypoints and trails so be sure to back them up first unless you have no choice.

Shut unit off, press Zoom in, Zoom out, and the power key, hold keys until USA map appears. Unit will reset to factory default, you will need to allow time for unit to reinitialize gps position. This may take up to a few minutes on the first gps position lock.

-------------------------
Transferring Waypoints from HDS to Endura.
with pic's when click on the link.

http://www.lowrance.com/upload...a.pdf


Step 1: Insert a microSD card into a standard SD adapter, then place adapter into the card slot on your HDS unit. Press the Pages key and scroll to the utilities page, select Files and press Enter.
Step 3: Select the output format as GPX (GPS Exchange), this is the format that your Endura uses for all waypoints, trails, and routes.
Note: Endura units can only import .gpx files that are no larger than 3 MB each. To check the size of your data file on you HDS, highlight �Waypoints, Routes and Trails� and press menu and select details.
09/03/2010
Step 2: Highlight Waypoints, Routes and Trails and press Menu and select export.
Step 4: Select the memory card destination for the GPX file.
Step 5: Remove the microSD card from the SD adapter. Insert the microSD card with the HDS gpx file on it into the card slot on the bottom of the Endura unit.
Step 6:
The Endura will ask �Import GPX from Card?� Select �yes�. The Endura will then process the GPX file and add it to your onboard waypoint and trails list.* This may take a few minutes to process. Once this is complete, you can return your microSD card and SD adapter back to your HDS unit if you wish.
*The Endura will need to be power cycled off then back on for the waypoint data to appear in the unit.

-----------------------

LSS-1 Light Codes


-------------------------

Elite 5 series info:
Saving wpts and Transfer wpts on Elite 5 series.


1) From the Chart or Steer page:
a. Press the menu key
b. Scroll to Waypoints, Routes, Trails�
c. Press Enter
d. Press Menu
e. Select Save to card� or Load from card� (depending on desired function)
f. Press Enter
g. For Save to card�
i. User can rename the file or go with the default �Data�
ii. Select version
1. 3.0 includes waypoint depth, this is not compatible with GDM6 or MapCreate.
2. 2.0 does not include depth.
iii. Select save
iv. Press Enter.
h. For Load from card�
i. Select file from Card menu
ii. Press Enter
2) From any page:
a. Press the Menu key twice
b. Select Chart
c. Scroll to Waypoints, Routes, Trails�
d. Press Enter
e. Follow steps d-h above.

Screen shots on Elite 5:
The latest update, 2.8, added screen shot capability. (Insert writable microSD card and press �power� then �zoom +.�)

Good link for the Lowrance Sonic Hub.


http://www.wired2fish.com/Boating-Talk--Adding-a-Little-Music-to-the-Mix-WhatsUp5410

May I jump in with another unit please? I have an Elite 5 and I've been looking the manual over quite a bit but haven't seen anything on recording or saving a sonar chart to my memory card. I have Ernest Paty's "Fishing Electronics 101" DVD which recomends taking saved sonar charts and "playing" them on a pc for study & interpretation. Does the Elite 5 have this function?

Downscan is a Lowrance strength and I like that new 4.0 Blue Color.

The Elite 5 cannot do sonar logs, but it CAN take screen shots.
The latest update, 2.8, added screen shot capability.
(Insert writable microSD card and press �power� then �zoom +.�)

Jason, thanks for all the help with the updates. No better way to get it, than have someone who knows what their doing, do it for you.

So, if you're prospecting in 50 to 80 fow, what would be the appropriate range setting for side scan? Seems like the "auto" function wants to project the range too far to be able to see anything. Do you need to keep the bottom in view? Also, if you don't use the chart functions, are the 3.5 and 4.0 upgrades all that important?

What about the Elite-5 DSI? Can it do sonar logs?

No it cannot do sonar logs, just screen shots.

Figures since i just put the last screw in the transducer mount. I know it was a specific question i asked the salesperson over the weekend and was told it would. Now to decide whether or not to uninstall it and take it back or just keep it.

Well I just went from a black and white Lowrance with no GPS to the new 8 inch with a 5 on the front. Going to put the boat in the water this afternoon. So I'm sure I will PM ing some of ya'll with questions. Good info here thank to all.

There are approximately 57 submerged bridges on Toledo Bend. Our new HDS units with side scan is allowing us to see things that one could only imagine before. Over the coming months, we will be sharing what we log on these bridges. The following bridge is our first.

Side scan view:


Down scan view:


Close up, look at the big school of fish just above the roadbed.

Nice images Bobby. Went out the first time with my new unit Sunday and was a little discouraged at what I wasn't seeing. Stumps off to the right of the boat did not show up at all, but went under a bridge and the pilings showed up very well. I'm sure I've got some more tweaking to do and the first thing was to change the xducer type from unknown to HST-wsbl. One thing that worries me is I've heard the structure and sonar transducers need to be mounted less than a foot apart. The dealer installed mine about 18 inches. Hope this won't affect my image quality. Any tips on tweaking the settings to get a clearer image?

Happy

Like you, I was also discouraged my first couple of trips. Got to noticing that vertical objects had a slight curve to them. That can't be, so I got my digital level in the boat and measured the angle of the boat when traveling at 4-6 MPH. Got back on the trailor and adjusted the fore-to-aft angle of the side scan transducer so it would be level when moving at 4-6 MPH. Wow; big difference in image quality.

I don't think you will notice much difference with the transducers being 18" apart.

O.K fellas, Happy mentioned something I might need to know. Does the ducer have to be near the lss1? I was thinking of putting the lss1 on the jackplate and running it back there while I use trolling motor which has the US2 built in it. Please say it is not so.

Bobby

Never thought of that. I'm going out tommorrow and I just happen to have a digital level. I'll take my reading, of course this will be done after the morning bite slows trailer her and adjust boat angle with trailer jack to match my reading and adjust ducer as needed. Thanks for the tip!

Scout

I've heard the ducers need to be mounted as close as possible to each other. From what Bobby posted it seems to me like the farther apart they are the lower your image quality will be. Someone step in and correct me if I'm wrong.

I believe they only need to be close if you use the overlay

Happy, if I lead you to think that the location of the sonar transducer had an effect on image quality of the side scan/down scan, I am sorry, it has no effect. The LSS transducer is independent and will give perfectly good pictures even with the sonar transducer unplugged from the back of your unit.

The only way that one can notice a discrepancy between the sonar image and side scan/down scan image is when you place them both on the screen side by side. If the two transducers are very far apart then one might be able to tell that one is leading or lagging the other. Since the sonar return signal is conical and the side scan/down scan is linear then there will always be some discrepancy even if the two transducers were very close to each other.

Hope this helps.

+1

I believe this was a temporaty wooden bridge used during the construction of Toledo Bend. One segment of the old concrete bridge is on the left.

Here it is again going in the opposite direction.


Same bridge in down scan.


Another image at 90 degrees. A magnum brushpile.


Down scan image at 90 degrees.

Thanks Bobby. I was confused. I thought the two worked together and the lss-1 module interpreted the data and created an image. Man I wish I could get my images looking that good. I can't see pilings from docks and and stumps off to the side of the boat but when I go under a bridge the pilings from it show up clear.

Thinking about buying an HDS with structure scan, I currently have a lowrance 520 at the bow and 27c at console linked together. Would move 27c to bow and install hds unit at console with ssi. So questions are:

1) Can i use the current 83/200 transducer(blue connectors) in my bilge for the hds?
2) What type of connectivity or trading/sharing of info can occur between the hds unit and 27c?
3) Is it worth the price to jump from a bundled hds7 with ssi and purchase the hds 8 and then purchase the seperate ssi unit?

Thanks

1) Can i use the current 83/200 transducer(blue connectors) in my bilge for the hds?

Yes

2) What type of connectivity or trading/sharing of info can occur between the hds unit and 27c?

Good question....I know for sure that you can share waypoints

3) Is it worth the price to jump from a bundled hds7 with ssi and purchase the hds 8 and then purchase the seperate ssi unit?

You can purchase the HDS 7 and the LSS-1 cheaper as a bundle. If you are looking to have a second HDS unit, you will not need to purchase an additional LSS-1. The LSS-1 easily networks via ethernet with up to three HDS devices.

Hope this helps

This big pile of concrete and steel is the remnants of the old Pendelton Harbor bridge. I couldn't find much remaining of the main steel span but there was an additional 1500 feet like shown in the picture.

Mike Iaconelli Lake Guntersville Roadbed. You tube video

http://youtu.be/pycTWTjoETw

Hey Jason I bought a 7 bundle. Will the gauges (you know, the tach, fuel, etc.) work with a 99 Yamaha Vmax? If so where can I buy the cables?

I would call Lowrance CS dept for that question. If so this part #..

Yamaha Engine Interface Cable - Red Part # 120-37 $79.95
Interface between a Yamaha engine and NMEA network to display engine data. Comes with a T connector. For use with red NMEA network.

Works with: NMEA 2000 Compliant Units

http://www.lei-extras.com/store/search.asp?SearchType=Category&Category=LowranceNET+Red

Thanks For the video Jason. Very informative

Some posted this on Lowrance Facebook and I would like to share this awesome screen shot.




to see a bigger picture go to Lowrance FaceBook page.
https://www.facebook.com/Lowrance

Not too many pics on here so I'll add a few for the fellas thinking about buying a new unit. The Lowrance is a plug and play unit with the di/si, there is no adjusting that has to be done to get good pics, just turn it on & go. The other brand requires fine tuning to get clear pics. (That's for the guys researching the units & trying to decide on a brand.)

Whats under your boat?


Down deep!


Rockpile with side imaging.


Same rockpile downscan.


Roadbed while lake was being built?


Same roadbed with the downscan and the thermocline..

Side scan of feeding cormorants.


Down scan of cormorants above. Look at the school of fish they are going after.

The GPS refresh rates on Lowrance HDS units come from the factory with a default �auto� setting. This auto setting adjusts the GPS refresh rate based on your speed. Some settings work pretty well from the factory, but this is not one of them. If you�re speeding down the lake, the refresh rate is fast. If you�re idling slowly down a ledge, the refresh rate is very slow and does not update the micro movements. This causes serious update delays� causing your unit to live in the past. If precise boat positioning is important to you � and it should be � you want real time updates.

The best way to get around these slow refresh rates is by going into the �Waypoints, Routes, and Trails menu.

1) Press �Page�

2) Press the right arrow on the cursor pad to scroll over to �Waypoints, Routes and Trails�

3) Use the arrows to select �trails� and hit the �menu� button.

4) Use the cursor pad to highlight settings, then press the enter button

5) Change the �logging type� to �Time�

6) Finally, set the time to �1 sec�. Press close and exit out.

thanks for the tip jason,mine were on auto,i planned on buying the 4000 antenna when i bought my 2 hds-7 and 2 lss-1 units,but am very pleased with the internal.

Thanks Jason, i'll check/change that setting on both of mine this evening! Totally unaware of this! Thanks for the help with my LSS-1. I changed out the power cable and everything is working fine. You're awsome!

Can you tell me how to input gps coordinates directly into the HDS7? I have someone that is willing to share some waypoints with me and is giving me the coordinates. Ill need to input them so I can find some fish!!!

I have recently bought and HDS 7. I am wanting to play with my new toy, adjust settings and screens etc. Is there a way I can do this between trips to the lake while in my garage?

Just sit down in your boat, turn your unit on then start playing. You don't need a GPS signal or a transducer signal.

A much "cooler' way is to get a 120/12 volt converter with a power connector and do your playing in the house.

Don't forget there is a simulator mode that is very handy for this sort of thing.

Hi everyone,

I have an HDS 5. Does anyone know how I can track my movements on the GPS screen? For example, if I drive into a cove, I want a line trailing the arrow on the GPS screen to show exactly where I just drove. When I first got the unit, I'm pretty sure it had this function on, but somehow I turned it off, and I can't get it back.

Jake start a new trail and while on that screen you will see the option to record trail, click on that bubble. At least I think thats how I got mine to show track.

Thanks, Grout-Scout! I haven't been able to try it, yet, but I was reading one of the previous posts, and it mentioned to make sure the "display" button was selected when I started a trail, also. Hopefully, it will work next time.

Ok guys, the info on this thread has helped me a ton. I have just a couple other questions however.

1) How do you get the screen to follow the boat when running down the lake? Mine just stays at one spot all the time and if that last spot happens to be across the state well so be it. Is it a GPS problem or a setting?

2) How do you take a screen shot picture? I can figure out how to record my graph and SI or DI. I just don't see a place to take a screen shot.

3) Is there a special SD card needed to record that stuff?

4) When you have SI, DI and Sonar all up can you rearrange the panels? I have an HDS 7 and sonar is at top left, DI is at top right and SI is on the bottom. I want to arrange them so that SI is left, DI is top right and Sonar is bottom right.

If I am wrong please feel free to correct me!

1. Push the exit button, don't know why but when it quits following push it and it'll change to follow screen. You have to have the gps screen as the selected screen for the exit to work, meaning if you have split screens up, you'll have to "hold pages" option to get to the gps screen. Confused yet? It's hard to explain in writing!

2. There is a option on one of the menu pages that says "screen capture", mark that bubble on. Then when you want to take a pic push the power button one time (do not hold it down), just push it once. It'll take a sec and then say screen captured. To find the pic go through the pages menu to the info page and at the bottom you will see files, go there to see saved info.

3. I just use a 2gb sd card and it'll record like 24 hours so I have no need for a larger card.

4. I don't think so because I have tried like the dickens to change mine, but you can edit the size of every panel.

Thanks scout,

I appreciate the help!

Good answers grout

On the #4 question: Go to 'pages' then start with the page you want on the left side (sonar, structure or chart) then scroll down the menu to make your choice of what you want on the right.

Here's another Toledo Bend bridge that's "MAN, I DIDN'T KNOW THERE WAS A BRIDGE THERE", very few people know it exists, even longtime locals like myself. So many fish.



I'm guessing the fish are crappie, but not sure.



Look at the shadows of the fish.

Google "Lowrance HDS ScreenShots," and you can pull up an illustrated guide to taking screen shots, including pics of the various menus, on the "Doc. Samson" site.

Holy son of a crappie that is a herd of fishies there Bobby!

Do you know if anybody has hit that bad boy with their motor during low water periods? When Falcon gets real low there is a bridge that's sunk a few boats.

Bobby,
Just for safety reasons I think you should put some GPS coordinates on these pics.

Just kiddin man! Thanks for the help.

For some reason when you do that on an HDS 7 it put things on top and bottom instead of the left and right. I guess it is just an HDS 7 thing. I am sure it has something to do with the size of the screen.

I have an add on question to this. I have my mapping card in my HDS, can I still take a screen shot and have it saved, or do I have to remove my map card and put in a blank card to take screen shots?

screen capture goes on the head unit then you can transfer it to a card

Thanks!

Jason, what if you have an LGC 4000 antenna? Is this just for the internal antennas found on the units?

LOL!!! I just realize that you do!

Those GPS coords would be on the maps you sell. My bad man. I guess I should pay a little closer attention!

Good question and Dayne gave the correct answer. But for any other new users here is some more info on recording on the unit. If you have a blank sd card in the unit you can record your: si, di, & 2d to either the blank card or to internal memory. If running a map card you will have to make sure it's to internal. That's for the 5 & 7, not sure how it works on the 8 & 10 since they have 2 slots. Anybody have any more pics?

Good info guys. I have had mine about 6 weeks now and havent trired to save pics yet.

A little more on sonar logging: If you log to the head you won't get much time before it fills up the memory so you really should have a card dedicated to logging info if you are going to do much of it.

I run hds8s and keep the map card in slot 2. I have a dedicated card for each unit which I keep in at all times and usually start a recording when I hit the water. I watch them to see what I have missed during the day.

I like to play them back in the boat using the simulator where I can get 2d, down, side and the chart at the same time. If I see some good rocks or brush piles I can look on the chart to see if I have a wpt. If not, then I can mark it for the next time I am on that lake.


Here is what I assume to be a big cat that swam under my boat one day.

Jeeze Louise...I LOVE that downscan!!! Now if you could only get it to bite!!! Thats a horse of a different color!

Rudy I also had some paddle fish swim under the boat that day. Here is a pic of one of them.

Dang! Ive seen those up close and personal when I lived in Sydney, Mt. Yellowstone River GIANTS!

with the hds-5 for an external gps antenna do you have to use lgc-4000 or will the lgc-3000 and if it will work is there adiffrince

My HDS units both have internal antennae. Cant help you turbo!

Toledo Bend Bridge


[img]http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k598/cajunslo/TBBridge3.gif?t=1312999212[img]

[img]http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k598/cajunslo/TBBridge1.gif?t=1312998929[img]

Same Bridge

[img]http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k598/cajunslo/Bridge4.gif?t=1312999334[img]

[img]http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k598/cajunslo/Bridge3.gif?t=1312999356[img]

[img]http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k598/cajunslo/Bridge2.gif?t=1312999420[img]

[img]
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k598/cajunslo/Bridge1.gif?t=1312999451[img]

The 3000 will reset at 1 second intervals like your head units. I had one and didn't like it.

The 4000 updates 5X per second. I have only used it a couple of times but it seems to be better.

mine has internal also but they only update 1 time per second i was looking to update 5x per second


thanks that's just what i needed to know

Not sure if this is a Lowrance or Navionics question. I have an HDS7 on the GPS screen in certain spots on the lake it shows a circle of dots. I have know idea what this is. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

Cajunslo

As you might suspect, I know exactly where that bridge is located.

The bridge is definitely flat and not curved as your pictures show: have you ever wondered why it shows curved?

In a few days (on this thread), I will try to explain why with some 'technical' stuff. My intention is to help anyone that is new to this side scan technology.

I was going along the other day past some large floating docks, and started seeing some thin, oblong lines on Downscan, extending up from the bottom and back down. Took me a while to figure out these pretty well had to be cables running from the docks to the bed of the lake.

No, I did not think it was flat, I sure can use all the help you have to offer. And yes I figured you knew where this particular bridge was located, its pretty well known. I will be headed up to TB tomorrow on the south end to try and locate bridges, etc. I enjoy taking sonar logs and reviewing later as much as I do fishing. I just updated my Navionics Platium card and there or alot more bridges showing now, or I just never paid that much attention. I am sure alot of them or gone, but its still fun to look for them. Again i appreciated any help or advice on scanning and logging, etc.

Bobby, why doesn't pvc show up with si/di? Or does anybody else know the answer? I made the most beautiful fish houses and dagnabit they don't show up .

They will show up if you are tuned in correctly.

Possible solutions: Decrease your scan distance to about 40' and make sure you are passing close to your waypoint. The broader your scan distance, the smaller objects appear.

One of the biggest issues I see with a lack of clariety is the fact that the LSS transducer is not exactly parallel with the water surface while scanning (4-6 MPH).

See my post in the early part of this thread for an explaniation.

grout I read where Doc Samson suggested switching SI frequencies when is shallow water. If your hotels are shallow you might give it a try.

Yesterday I was looking for some wood pallets that a guy tied together along the bank when Pomme de Terre was 5' low. I couldn't see them until I switched frequencies then I was able to pick out their shadows as I passed them.

They are in 27 ft of water and I'll try it guys but I'm not sure it'll work, I was running 800mhz. I can get them on 2d but they didn't show up on si or di . It seems like I heard someone else say something about the density being not thick enough or something to that extent. I guess in reality it's better if they don't show up for everybody else. I need to check out this Doc Samson, seems I hear his name quite a bit.

Not trying to play expert here, just wanted to pass along information that may help other TFF's.







Hope it helped.
Bobby

Thanks Bobby, that is good info to know for future reference. I never would have thought that bridge was flat and it makes sense after you explained it . Hey Bobby are the lake maps your have linked to the same ones Bass Pro is selling (san antonio, anyways)? They are about the same price and the fella at the register couldn't tell me much about them.

Keep up the good work fellas!

Bobby,

I just want to make sure I understand this so I catch it when I do it out on the water. This may seem a little elementary for some, if so I apologize.

Lets say I record a pass by a bridge and when I get home I want to review it. I can turn on the range lines and use those to show how you were close to the object and then drifted farther away or closer to it causing the curved look. And if you see that you stayed the same distance away from the object the whole time but the object still looks curved then odds are it is curved.

Does this sound right?

I have one other question.

If I run my cursor over the bridge (where the red dots are) and set way points, will they appear in a straight line (sense the bridge is straight) on my chart?

Yes, with very limited selection.

Assuming that your 'curved object' is uniform - such as a bridge, then if you stayed the same distance from it, it would show straight. The opposite effect of a straight object appearing curved.

Very good question and I am not sure I am the right person to answer it because I am still having some concerns about the accuracy of setting waypoints as you show.

Until someone gives me a better understanding than what I have learned on my own, I will not use the DI to set waypoints. They will probably get you in the ball park but there is too much horizontal information compressed into the DI from the SI data.

At this point in my learning curve, I will stick with the SI to set my waypoints and expect them to be reasonably accurate.

FYI: DO NOT pull coordinates from your SonarViewer and expect them to be accurate.

I totally agree with this statement. I look at the sonar viewer to get a better feel for what I have been fishing but for marking wpts of stuff I have missed, I like to record all channels then every once in a while stop the recording, pull out into the lake, and review the recording with a 4 screen simulation. That way I can have a good look at everything and mark anything that I missed while fishing.

Can I get that cool blue color with the 4.0 update?

Yes you can, just download the new update.

A few new bridges thanks to Bobby Feazel and his mapping chip.









The chase was on!!

Here are a couple of more shots, need ideas on what is causing the distortion on the left side of my side scan. You can see the vertical lines from the top of the water column and also the scan quality between the right and left side.

I posted a picture of a lss transducer setup on a jackplate with transducer shield. My set up is the same.

I have a Skeeter ZX 225 and the transducer is mounted on the right side. 2010 model.

GREAT shots of the 'chase'. I am envious.

Your lines are definitely interference which is probably coming from the left side of your jack plate.

Check to see if the transducer is parallel to the bottom of the jack plate (side-to-side not front-to-back). If it is you may have to lower it a bit.

BTW: since you have the transducer mounted 180 degrees from the default position, have you flipped left to right?

Also BTW: did you notice the square hole in the deck of the bridge?

Thanks, the more time I spend on the water, and reading TFF and other forums the better my results. However I have to admit I find more after viewing my recordings on SLV.

I will check my transducer.

Yes I did flip my transducer position.

Yes I did notice the square hole !

Anyone know what the maroon squares represent. This is from Navionics Platium chip with the latest updates. Toledo Bend.

Building foundations.

Great, now you just gave me another 100+ things I will have to try and find and record, ha ha !! Any chance some of these or on your chip already?

Sorry, that might seem like a crazy question, I don't remember having these before, and I just did a software update on my Navonics chip, and did not get to test it until my last trip to TB and that was after I loaded your map chip.

I also did not notice them on the water. It wasn't until I got back and was double checking things on my Navplanner2 with my Navionics chip is when I noticed them.

Just added the LSS1 to my HDS 7. Found tons on structure I did not know was there with the side scan. My downscan looks pretty "empty" for the most part. It is picking up fish and shad but not much structure.

Does the new update change anything with your 2D sonar? My screen looks much different than it did before the update. I am not picking up nearly as much "junk" returns. But I am also not picking up as much shad with 2D. My downscan picks up the bait, and I confirmed it with cast net.

Cajunslo,

The series or rows of close straight lines parallel to your center line direction of travel are echoes causes by hard reflections possibly from the jac plate's large opposite side wall reflecting sonar energy. It can likely be greatly reduced by a splash plate installed across the bottom of the jackplate just above the horizontal plane of the transducer. Also the rigid mounted shield saver can make the problem worse coupling the transducer rigidly to the Jackplate and motor. The simple pivoting supplied lowrance mount is less physically coupled to the plate and better hides the false echo lines seen below..

When you eliminate the false echos, the remainder of the left side image will be able to be better filtered and processed giving it similar quality to what you see on the right images .The right side also is showing false vertical lines at but they are less severe.

[quote=cajunslo]Here are a couple of more shots, need ideas on what is causing the distortion on the left side of my side scan. You can see the vertical lines from the top of the water column and also the scan quality between the right and left side.

I posted a picture of a lss transducer setup on a jackplate with transducer shield. My set up is the same.

I have a Skeeter ZX 225 and the transducer is mounted on the right side. 2010 model.

*******************************************************
In addition to Lou r Pitchers suggestion about the hole-shot plate, Transducershield recommends adding an extender plate to most Skeeter, Bullet installs due to possible interference from the sponsons. The extender adds 4" of drop to your LSS-1 transducer.

Brian

Thanks for the reply's. I think the transducer extension would be cheaper of the two, I really don't have an issue with my hole shot, so it would be easier and probably fix my issue.

Does transducer shield sell the extension, or do you supply them at your place ?

I do carry the extension but I need to make a correction...it lowers the transducer 2 inches not 4 inches as I stated earlier. Give me a call if you would like to order.

Brian

I'm just another sonar user, but am a licensed radar engineer which seems to help interpret my graphs. ....The nagging sonar echos you have do not have a signature indicative of a problem caused by a Skeeter boat hull or "sponsons".... They clearly show reflections though of a hard sided box such as a jackplate. You can actually measure the size of the jackplate by examining the space between the echo lines as sonar repeatedly gets reflected between the hard sides of the jackplate.

Lowering the transducer 2 inches should help a little, but I suspect the jackplate echos will still be prominant. The company's Skeeter excuse to lower and change the mount does not support the data within your graph. A plate, even an inexpensive homemade piece of plywood Or wife's cookie sheet temporarily bungicorded strapped across the bottom of the jackplate should confirm to you if the open jackplate is source of your echos.

The dark images on the left side of the screen are indicative of the beam being partially blocked. On transom mounts where no jackplate is used, you will see this happen when the motor is trimmed too far down.

I'm sure Scap/Transducershield came to the same conclusion when Skeeter customers were complaining of dark images on their Jackplate mounts. That's why they came up with the extender plate which helped resolve the problem.

The hole-shot plate does resolve the echo effect within the jackplate but the dark images aren't necessarily related.

Brian

From all that Ive read, your Xducer is probably not level with the bottom. Is this happening while you are idling along or sitting still? Recheck the level of the Xducer.
Oh, and YES, the 4.0 update is supposed to clean up the sonar in 2d as well.
Sonar Improvements
� Multiple improvements in sonar processing resulting in
better overall sonar performance including:
� Less interference from trolling motors
� Improved noise rejection overall
� Faster high speed run recovery
� Improved depth auto ranging in shallow water
� Improvements are embedded
� No adjustments required by user to gain benefits"

Well, found out it cleaned it up too much.

I did soft reset on my HDS 7 and it took me back to set up wizard. When everything came up the 2D was much closer to what it was before the 4.0 instal. Changed the contrast settings on my downscan and it is much better now as well.

Transducer was level. No need to recheck. While moving at both 3mph and 6mph I made a small mark with a permanent marker at the waterline on the front and back of boat. I made a midpoint between two marks up front (1.5" apart) and a midpoint between back 2 marks (1/4" apart). I popped a chalk line and made it level by adjusting the jack on trailer. Then I installed the StructureScan transducer level with bottom of boat and perfectly level.

I figure that is probably as close as I can get, right?

Ok, Lowered the LSS1 transducer about 2". Went out on local lake and did some testing.
The vertical lines are diffently worse at slower speeds. They will go away at around 4-5 SOG. Still have some prop wash. Now I guess I will have to get a hole shot plate to see if i can record at slower normal speeds without this problem.

Transducer Normal


Transducer with Extension



Transition from 4-5 SOG to 1-2 SOG


Moving at 4-5 SOG



Transition from 1-2 SOG to 4-5 SOG



I think I agree with Lou r Pitcher, that its a jack plate issue.

I've got the same set up as you do, only I'm sticking with the 3.0 "upgrade." I leveled both transducers by eyeballing them, and I've never seen a "baitball" on downscan that I didn't see on 2d, and I'm seeing about 10 times more bait on Canyon than I could see on my old Eagle 480. But that 2d tries to show too much. I have to tone it down by adjusting the sensitivity. You have a range of "minus" and "plus" settings available while keeping it on "auto." Only thing, seems like when you get it right for one depth or speed, it won't seem right for others. I guess you've played around with ping speed and whatnot.

I don't know Cajun, I am using the cheap factory bracket on my jackplate (which is much higher than yours). Heres my pics at ldle speed (3-4)with a Skeeter 12" jackplate.


And a pic at trolling motor speed (2-3)


I'm wondering if maybe you are getting interference?

I had my 2D set perfect before the upgrade. It tries to "filter" your 2D down so much that you have a hard time telling difference between surface clutter and scattered bait. Now it is almost back to the way it was before (both shallow water mode.)
I have sens. at 78, CL at 76, Surface clar LOW, and Noise Reject OFF. Before all was same except sens. was 70 and surface clar was MED

Just updated my hds 10 to 4.0......did I mess up? Should I have left it alone?

It is a good update. PM or call me if you have any problems with your 2D. I was on phone with Lowrance when I fixed mine.

I was trying to fix one problem before attempting to go back to 4.0. When I upgraded to 4.0 I had way too much screen clutter. I went back to 3.5 and that helped 100% with the clutter. Now working on the vertical lines. I hope to go back to the 4.0 once Lowrance works out all the issues. I worked with my surface clarity yesterday and noise reduction. I had to leave my surface clarity off, if i used any other setting my left side of the screen would turn darker with each setting until it went completly dark with high. I could not see any bottom features. Hopefully enough off us will keep testing and figure this out and can share the answers.

Grout Scout - it appears you have some of the same vertical lines on your first picture, it actually looks like you did change speeds because the very beginnig of the first picture there or no lines, then the lines appear as you slow down. Not at noticable as mine. But it looks like your set to scan out 60+ and I was scanning for the part at around 20-25, the lake was only 15', anything over 40' scan and the screen would go dark halfway out. Did i interpert your picture correctly or not!!

4.0 software did not effect the lss-1 sonar. try taking out of auto range on left and right scan and keep down scan in auto..

I like run my left and right scan around 80-100ft and i used 800khz

I see about 8 sonar bounces on cajunslo's jackplate and on groutscouts sonar about 6 multiple sonar bounces inside his jackplate and both jackplates echos show the jackplates measure just about the same size and the ducer is mounted about the same distances from the opening of the jackplate. ..... So very similar setups. Rather than a speed change, I see groutscouts unit likely changed its sonar strength or filtering automatically as he moved from one depth to a different depth and the jackplate echoes changed in visibility as the depths changed.
Both units can be helped with 1) a holeshot plate or 2) by taking out of auto you can hide most of the echo problemBut will be likely giving up some of the capability and optimum performance.

Jason, My last screen shot the sidescan and downscan were in manual. I did change scanning range a couple of times but this did not help with the lines.

I recieved a call from Scap today, he is working with me and sent me pictures to take measurments. He said he will fix my problem with another L-Bracket and will build me a hole shot plate if that dosn't work, either way he attitude was 100% customer satisfaction and fixing the problem !!!

After talking to him on the phone I know now why so many recommended him.

cajunslo

I think Scap has you on the right track.

My team partner and I had the same problem on his Skeeter. Our solution was to place the transducer mid-way between the two jack plate sides as low as we could get it. (Yea, I know; we all hate to drill holes in the transom but he chose to do that rather than install a hole-shot plate.)

Bottom line, this move solved his interference problems.