Welp i traded my plastic pond hopper for a 80's model glastron bass boat. Guy at work that had it said the trim motor was bad and he didn't have the money to fix it so we traded, turned out to just be a bad relay....$15 bucks and I got her running, can't beat that. New carpet and seats...

Anyway it's got the short older style deck up front, planning on extending all the way back to the console this weekend. Got the plans all drawn up, but I've got one question. I'm planning on framing it out in treated 2x4s but I don't know the best way to anchor the outside boards to the fiberglass. my supports in the middle I can just screw directly to the ply wood deck, but I'm not sure about the outer rim that'll run along the inside edge of the boat. Liquid nails? Or will regular wood screws hold?

I wouldn't use wood screws, they will rust. I would use stainless steel srews or if you can access from inside your rod lockers I would put stainless steel bolts and fender washers and nyloc nuts. Another option instead of 2X4's I built an extention on a previos boat and I screwed aluminum angle iron to the boat. I rounded the edges and if I needed the room, all I had to do was un-screw the carpeted plywood extention and just left the aluminum angle iron brackets. Congrats on your new boat and enjoy.

We use aluminum also like H2O does, If you use 2x4 it can retain water and even add more weight to the bow of the boat. The more weight you add, the worse the boat will handle or preform. Keep it lite, remember, your not building a house floor and piling 1000's of lb's of furniture on it, IT's only to support your weight,

If I am picturing the deck extention right, I do not think you will need to fasten the outside edges to the fiberglass. The new step-up will be fastened to the existing floor, and the new deck floor will be rest on the verticle step-up, so it can't go anywhere. I extended the deck on my little boat, and fastened only to the existing floor and old raised deck, with new verticle support "walls" under the new deck, out toward the boat-side edge. The new deck attaches to the old with an aluminum angle as a ledger, and hinges to allow the new deck to raise and give access to new storage under the new deck.

Scratch the treated lumber idea, was told it's not good for marine applications. The other extensions I've seen have used the existing rod lockers as part of the frame, but when they recarpeted and decked mine they never put it back in.

Anyways, here's a pic of the boat maybe you guys can help me get this planned out a little better. I was thinking I'd come back to the console, go straight across to the left, then come back a little further on the left side to frame around where the rod locker was. How would you guys go about making that happen?

Sounds good and it looks as if you can still use the rod box and add storagebox or boxes in the center.

The photo helps alot. About pressure treated wood, if it is not good for marine applications, somebody better tell all those folks who are building their docks out of it! If you want your new deck to be level with the existing, I would start by rebuilding the rod locker with side and slanted end walls tall enough for the new deck to end up even with the old. A piece would be needed against the fiberglass side to complete the box. Your probably would want to attach it to the fiberglass with screws. Your locker lid will hinge on that side. You would continue upright walls outlining the new deck, using 3/4 in plywood. Some cross walls for support and to define below deck storage will probably be needed. You can make hinged hatches similar to the one in the very front, any size you want. I'm out of ideas, some one else jump in here.

use 1x1 aluminum angle, 5/8" pressure treated plywood, and plan it to come even to the existing deck. put a wall down the rod locker where it was cut to "redo" the locker, put one or two walls across L-R to create new storage areas, use the alum. angle to attach all verticals to the floor and use 1" #8 ss sheetmetal screws to attach to the gunwhale areas (use some urethane const adhesive on the back of the aluminum where it attaches to the fiberglass pl400 is recommended).
here's a pic of the extension i did in my champion, been there a yr and not a prob.


there is a wall under the check it stick to make two storage compartments

oh if you make hatches like mine you will need some flat aluminum about 1 1/2"X1/8" and screw it to the underside to keep the lids from going down.

This is what mine looks like,outdoor plywood with fiberglass resin.

There were some good pictures of deck extensions from a few months ago on this site. I just finished mine on a 88 ranger. I built a frame out of 2 treated 2x4. I bolted the frame to the console and to the center of the floor with 2x4 brackets used in attaching studs to concrete in house construction. Mine is solid as a rock. Total weight including plywood deck material. 98 lbs. Remember when drilling holes the bilge area doesn't extend all the way to the out side of the bottom. If you try drilling on the outside edges of the floor or sides there is probably a single wall. Hulls are never flat as they come out of a mold so everything is rounded and a pain to make a square frame but it can be done. Good luck and take your time.

Just got back from home depot, bought everything I'll need to get her done. As soon as it quits raining I'll get started. It's gonna be a plan as I go type thing. It looks like the hardest part is going to be keeping the new deck level with the old one

I appreciate all the help

I bought indoor/outdoor carpet glue, is that what I need or should info back and get spray adhesive?.....

Get a long level or straight edge to help keep the frame level. Your plywood will be .70 inches thick.
The carpet glue will be good for the floor and flat deck. Get the best 3m spray cans for the doors. Be sure the rubber and glue from the old carpet is completely removed. Use a good mask.

falco, use masking tape to outline the new deck area then just measure down the thikness of the woood to install the alum.if you use the alum angle like i suggested, take a piece of sandpaper and go over the area for the angle/adhesive. just remember, measure twice cut one time.