Been running Carlisle for two years and just got done running them for 8 hours down to Falcon and 8 hours back. The next problem I have with them will be the first.

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTrailerTireFacts.dos

here are some facts

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I see alot of people saying just keep your tires at 50psi. I believe you should run what the recommended tire pressure is on the tire. Mine say max 36psi....

You are correct but most trailer tires have 50psi max cold.

I ran radials on my boat for 3 years before i had a blowout heading to fork one morning. Took it to a tire shop in Canton TX to buy new ones and asked him his opinion as to which tire to run. He told me that I would be better off putting Carlisle bias ply on it. He said that when radials get wet and set over a period of time will blow out because the metal in the tires rust. That was about 4 months ago. Well low and behold, I was heading to the lake Sat and had one seperated. I took it back and tried to get it replaced with no luck. He said Carlisle would not replace it. My boat stays inside a metal shop @ all times when I'm not using it. I would strongly advise against any product whos campany will not stand behind their product.

I would always choose a radial over a bias ply. Why do we all run radials on our cars/trucks?

Stick with trailer tires for the load rating and for safety reasons. However, I personally do not use the steel belted tires. I have had the belts unravel internally and come through the tire. I have never had a blowout or flat with the non-steel belted trailer tires. And I have driven from Houston to Del Rio in the month of August two weekends in a row without problems.

I tow a boat and a big heavy travel trailer and one thing I've learned over the years is that running under inflated tires, exceeding the tire's speed rating and running tires that are showing signs of age are the biggest causes of tire failures. As a general rule I replace my trailer tires at 5 to 7 years regardless of how much tread wear they show. If they show any cracks on the side wall from dry rot then they're gone. I see people all the time running under inflated tires because they haven't checked pressures. Also, if your gonna run over 70 mph then you should probably add 5 lbs over max pressure to reduce rolling resistance and heat.

Finally, and this important to those with tandem axles, those ST tires are designed to handle "scuffing" when turning and backing. Some "P" (passenger) rated tires can't handle the side to side torsional twisting exerted on the tire, causing the tread to separate.

I personally run GY Marathons (Canadian or US made) one load range higher than what is really called for.

i just picked up my second set of carlisles for $80 each at discount. they will wear much if not properly inflated but have not had any probs with them as long as i maintain proper psi. marathons were priced at 109 but ive seen too many blow on friends trailers...

Well all four of my tires are gone. They have chunks of trad tearing off of them large bald spots on them. These tires are only about a year old from when I bought the boat new. This is very frustating that I have not been able to get more use out of them since they came new with the trailer, Not sure if I should try to make the dealer replace them or what?

I would definitely take it back to the dealer. Unless you have just run the tread off of them then the manufacturer should at least prorate. The problem with a trailer is there is no way to confirm the miles.

I would always choose a radial over a bias ply. Why do we all run radials on our cars/trucks?

I totally disagree. I have experimented with radials versus none radials and most all brands. My trailer is a single axle. It is probably towards the upper limit for a single. I am running bias ply Carlisle's and am on my 3rd or 4th set. I have never had one blow. I cannot say that about radials. Every time I have run radials I have had a tire blow. Trailers do not have car or truck suspensions and are much harder on the sidewalls.

I've run radials on 3 different trailers (just put a second set on my flatbed) because 'auto' tires tend to be cheaper than 'trailer' tires and I've never had any trouble. I wouldn't do it on anything real heavy, but I've done a small boat. I think the problem is most people try to keep them longer than they should. Trailer tires tend to rot out before the tread wears out. Match the load, watch the air pressure and if you start seeing cracks or unusual wear or they look weathered, replace the tires.

Trailer tires are stronger on the sidewalls because of the swaying action of the weight being so high up and other factors. Automobile tires will fail quickly.