I decided to replace my bearings on my 1990 trailer this month. I tore everything down, got my bearing sizes and headed off to Academy. I bought two kits that included the bearings, races and seal. I've done this before but since it was years ago I used the following site as my guide.

http://users.westco.net/~tandjlm/berring.htm

Everything went well and the first run was a 45 mile trip each way. Hubs ran cool but I noticed that I had a little grease leaking out the back of one of the seals. I had cleaned up the back of my rims so I can spot any leaks on the back side. Tore it back down and a small section of the rubber part of the seal looked like it had been bent and flatten right where it is attached to the metal. Stopped by the auto parts store and bought a new one and replaced it. Next trip was 60 miles each way and I had no leaks. I have buddy bearing but I do not plan to use them unless I see grease coming out on a long trip.

I plan to inspect and repack them once a year replacing the back seal each time ($3-$6/wheel). Other than that I�m not touching them.

Cheap fix that probably didn't run more than $15/wheel (bearing where on clearance at Academy). You can hardly go wrong with the step-by-step in the link above.

Great post cowtown.

My thoughts on trailer bearings are, keep a greased set of spares ready including races, seal, washer, nut, cotter pin, and hub cap. I've had them burn up after 6 months before. Annual cleaning/repacking does not guarantee them to last. My new boat trailer came with the spare tire mounted to a spare hub on a spindle, an excellent idea.

I had a Mark IV trailer once and it had the spare mounted on a spindle and complete hub assembly. Great idea on a crummy trailer.

what do you guys think i should do? i asked my dad he said some water had got in there this and that, but in this thread i read you don't want water in there...I just got this boat, and this is what the wheel looks like...ANY suggestions welcome..thanks guys...it's my first boat...

You need to replace the rusty wheels Pronto!... and change/repack the bearings while you've got it apart.

Bazz

I agree with the above about addressing the rust first. From your picture, you cannot really tell what the whole story is. The bearings could be fine (Even though I would change them to start on a fresh slate). Can't judge a book by its cover.

I am a Certified Lubrication Specialist and a member of the Society of Troboligist and Lubrication Engineers. I love reading this post for many reasons. Mostly because I do this for a living in the industrial world and love to fish. Bearing buddies are great for those who want to do it the easy way but have to agree with the old timers that hand packing is the best way to do it. Grease is made up of about 85% oil and then blended with a thickner, usually a soap. The lubrication from grease comes from the oil "shedding the oil" and then reabsorbing it. Grease has to "channel" in order for this to take place. If the bearing is packed with to much grease it does two things: First it creates heat from the extra friction (running in sand) and secondly it foams thus not properly lubricating. Bearing should be packed about 75% for the full benifits of the grease to do its job. The back seal is suffcient to keep the water out and if any water does get in it is normally not at pressure and the grease will not allow it to penitrate to the bearing. Over greasing not only will blow out the lip seal but it will also over pack the bearing not allowing the grease from doing what it is supposed to do: lubricate, remove heat, and clean the surface. Just my 2 cents worth.. I will hang up and listen.

the whole trailer has rust on it? am i screwed?

JSB...you are not screwed. You now own a boat like the rest of us that needs a lot of work. As long as the tongue will stay on your hitch. and the wheels keep spinning you are gold. Go fishing and have fun. check your bearings, use your safty chains, try and keep lights that work and have fun.

I go to my local trailer shop once a year and have both hubs replaced with new ones. I keep a couple of spares rebuilt and lubed and in large ziplock bags in my toolbox. Once I had to replace a hub along side the road, it took me probably 30 minutes from start to finish. I didn't have to break down the old hub, just pull it, clean/grease the spindle and install new hub. A cordless Dewalt drill with a socket that fits lug nuts works wonders for snugging the lug nuts, then just use the lug wrench and/or torque wrench.

I would at least get those bolts free and replaced. Hate to have them seize on you when you need to change a tire. The wheel looks pretty bad, probably structurally ok, but better safe than sorry. I would replace the hub and the bearing buddy.

btw, the "bra" for the bearing buddy is to keep from slinging grease all over your boat in the event of a failure/leak, and to keep water and debris out.

I would replace those studs. It's a real bummer when they start busting off while your totin it down the big road. Replace the bearings and races, they are cheap insurance. as far as the wheel goes, if it aint cracked, bead blast it and repaint it.

What does it cost to have both hubs redone?

Most places charge an hour's labor, plus parts. $80-100 bucks normally.