I’m gonna run my FFS on its on battery.I have a Lowrance 9” touch on bow with a 5” linked and a 10”helix on bow. Thinking about swapping the 9 and 10 out, but my trails are on my 9”.
What are you guys running and what lithium battery would be sufficient.
Thanks in advance.

50 amp Ionic Lithium will run the 10 inch FFS couple of days easy

Figure about 2 amps per hour for each graph and 2 amps/hr for the FFS.

I run a 125 Ionic, but if you don’t want motor starting capability, you can buy a less expensive brand.

I put a 100 ah in my front compartment and pulled my graphs off my starting battery. There is 100 ah mini battery from one brand I wish I had seen prior to my install. I used a group 24. It weighs 22 pounds. Not bad. I installed a hub and a fancy disconnect that monitors the voltage. Found a lithium charger for 30 bucks as well.

I have not used it yet as I installed it last week. I expect to be able to run 2 8 hour days without charge.

I had three Lowrance Carbons and a Lowrance Live, AT2, Sonic Hub 2, Ethernet expansion hub, 6 pumps, Ppwer Poles,Yamaha network, and a SHO on a single Ionic 125ah. Never once had it get below about 70% during a long day of fishing.
New boat has 4 12” Lowrance Lives, 12” Garmin and LVS 34, stereo system, a few pumps, heated seats, Power Poles, full network, 3 GPS antennas, and a Merc V8 on two paralleled 125ah Ionics. I don’t foresee a problem…ever.
But, I haven’t had this boat to the lake yet. Maybe this weekend.

Damn, baller.
You going to get any fishing done with all those graphs?
Nice setup

It’ll probably be June before I can concentrate and catch a limit. Haha.

First, add up the amp hour draw from all of the electronics that you plan to use on this battery. This information can be found in the manuals or online. Second, determine how long you want them to last before having to recharge your battery. Then calculate that and buy an appropriate battery with the appropriate amount of amp hours. A lot of people just guess, but the information is out there. It’s simple math. I hope this helps some people. Good luck!

Too bad there isnt a way to figure power usage vs how long a battery lasts.

Math is hard

You should do a current calculation for your boat, then it will allow you to pick the size needed. For example, a Helix 12 & Mega 360 setup. Here are the specs from the manuals. The head unit pulls (2.2 amps), and the 360 (.5amps) for a total of 2.7A. So if you had a 100amp hour battery, divide the current into the battery Amp hour rating. 100amp hour / 2.7 = @ 37 hours before the battery should go into protection mode. If you do this for all the items on your boat, and don't forget the ethernet box's, you will get a exact time that you can run before things start turning off. ALso, if you run a 100ah battery to 11.7V and it goes into protection mode, it will take 10 hours to charge if you have a 10A charger for that channel. It's better to know exactly, and if you do go the lithium route make sure the battery has a phone app (if possible). It's not a deal killer because you can tell the percentage of the battery life remaining by the voltage. If you have a DVM you can check any lithium and tell what percentage is remaining (chart below is for a 12V application).

The data found in the Hummingbird manuals for the Helix 12, and 360..





Voltage for Lifepo4 lithiu batteries.

What is math?
What isn’t math?

Yall sound like the Allstate commercial. Lol

I've been using LiTime batteries for a couple years now and no issues. I run a designated 12-volt 50 amp {basic set-up (2) 12"s and (1) 9" + FFS} for my electronics and 3 12 volt 100amph for trolling motor. Best price in town, they ship fast, and customer service is in Houston. I'm not a serious fisherman but it works well for me, I never drop below 12.1 volts.

Get with Goodman on here. He has a nice spreadsheet to calculate run time, battery size, etc., and knows his stuff when it comes to batteries.

Oh so close. Most lithium's BMS will shut down the battery when it gets between 5-10% so your 100a battery is really a 90a battery.

Actually my graph is set to 11.7, and i ran it down to 11.2 once. Had to kick start it to charge it. I really don't like bringing it down that low, 99% of the time its in the 40-60% range when im done. 90ah or 100ah is pretty much the same ballpark for my needs. My calculations show me to run 22 hours before i am SOL.

On a Garmin your better off running a 16 to a 20volt battery, much better picture, not sure if Lowrance recommends anything over 12 volts

Myth

There's a calculator download for Excel that goes with this video. It will help you estimate run times for your graph setup with different batteries.

Yep. Even Garmin will tell you that more than 12v doesn't help performance.

I'll add to it. If 16v gives you a better picture its because you have inadequate wiring causing voltage drop. Garmin along with Lorance and Humminbirds graphs processors are all internally regulated to around 5vdc. Applying more voltage only reduces the amp draw from the battery (Ohms Law). All things being equal as in amp capacity a 16v will get about 30% more run time than a 12v. Here's the other hitch, you'll need a separate charger as well.

Don’t rain on their picnic.

I have a very similar setup and use that same battery. Don't ever give it a thought except to charge it after each trip.

However, if you think you get a clearer screen using 16 volts, they now have a 16 volt battery just for that purpose.