I'll mess with the card holder later. I need a belt. Very first step is oiling the veg tanned. What this does is level out the dye color. The dye is alcohol based and it'll cut through the oil. Dye on dry leather looks blotchy.

I want to dye the veg tanned before it's glued to the red chrome tan. I want a sharp color line. The veg needs to sit overnight for the oil to fully soak in. Then it can be dyed.

That looks like good work to me. It's a craft that I have never gotten into. We made some when in shop in high school, but was all I ever did.

Over the years most of things I've made have vanished. Here's some of my older work. I carried a Buck 110 for years. Then one day long ago. Old Girlfriend's dog chewed on it.

(If you've ever wonder how, "Saddle-Lac" leather finish does. That's why this sheath is still shiny after all these years.)

What do you use to stitch the leather together?

The old way was to stick an industrial sewing machine needle in a drill press. Marking the holes with an over stitch wheel. Pushing the needle through the leather. The most accurate way I could think of. It works pretty good. But it doesn't make the slanted looking holes as a Stitching awl does.

This time around, I'm gonna use Pricking irons. 3.85mm spacing. 3.85 is 7spi (Stitches per inch). Using Ritza 25, 'Tiger thread' in white. 1mm. Along with appropriate sized blunt tip needles. John James on those. Typical saddle stitch in how.

Strap is dyed. Went through twice for two applications. In the bottom left of the picture. Notice the slight blotchy. That end wasn't oiled to the end. Now it's gotta dry for a couple of hours. Until it doesn't smell like alcohol. The red chrome tanned next to it for the color difference.

Both sides are glued together. Now l wait overnight for the glue to cure. Then it's trimmed, stitch groove, and ends cut. Dye touch up. It'll be ready for holes. (Not pictured, I also glued the strap for the billets.)

Rolled with a clean smooth beer bottle.

Check out my new slab of granite. And another homemade tool. Used to smooth out a stitch line or making sure glue sticks. The face is polished and has a slight convex. Started life as a shingle hammer(?).

your work is good
i have a friend with a lot of these exotics you are looking for
he will sell them cheap
he had a set back in life & now builds leather goods

Here's a make or break moment. Belt sizing. Old belt is 43" long without the billets. Old belt has 4 buckle adjustment holes. I want 5. Sized to where the middle hole of the five is used, two holes on either side of the buckle. 44inches? 45? 46? It's gotta be cut before I can run a stitch groove. So it's me putting on my blue jeans. Cinching up my old belt and making the decision. The only punishment you'll get, if you mess up, is having to spend more money.

My waist measurement is around 33-34". When I made my old belt I was a 32" waist. Shirt tucked in and cinched comfortable. We're on the second hole from the pointed end of the tongue. So let's go with 45". Fine adjustment can be accomplished in the placement of the tongue billet.

On the left is a store bought stitch groover. The other is one I made. The store bought has a guild. The one I made, I'd run a crease along the edge and would use that as a guild. Either will work but this time we're gonna use the fancy store bought. It's been stropped and it's properly sharp. Stitch line is going to be 3/16th's from the edge. ~4.6mm.

Trimming 90 inches of belt is no joke. Nerve racking. But it has to be right or the burnished edge won't look right.

Today's adventure is done. Trimmed and grooved. Next step is putting holes in it. That's a whole other situation. It involves me staying in one position. Somewhere comfortable because it'll take awhile doing it. Same with hand stitching it. (The edges are getting beveled after the holes are done)