So you have a good idea on what to do. I think if you change your approach and products you can see some good results. First. Find a fertilizer like APF 13-13-13 or 15-5-10. Most local feed stores have it. That is an Ammonium Sulfate based nitrogen vs mostly Urea that is in the Lesco. Do light feedings more often. So 13-13-13 you would apply 2lbs of product per 1000sq feet every 4 weeks. That will give you 0.250lbs of actual N 2per 1000. Most bag rates of commercial products will put down 0.9lbs of N. Which is a lot. If that coating is compromised in anyway it becomes an all fast release fert and none of it slow release, so you're not planning on ferting for 8 weeks, well all that fert got used up in 4 weeks so the next 4 weeks you're getting no response. With our heat and humidity it's really tough to judge how long that slow release will last. So I don't prefer to use any slow release. APF is an all fast release. And I will know if I put out X amount of product I will get a 4 week response from it. So if you put down Lesco 3 times last year, you put down 2.7lbs of actual N. You put down APF 7 times a year at .250 you get about 1.75-2lbs of N. Should be all you need. Hope that makes sense.

Ironite is garbage. Specially the granular. Iron oxide is not readily plant available and good get locked up in the soil and never be plant available. You need a chelated iron. It is immediately available to the plant. This is one from SLS. Decent product.
https://simplelawnsolutions.com/collections/iron/products/lawn-energizer-32oz

I like they way you water. But I would make sure it's dialed in. Get a couple rain gauges and put them in each zone and water like you do. See what's in the gauge. You want to shoot for 1/2". I have 2 zones doing a 10 then 30 would be prefect. If I did that in my other zones it would put down about 2" of water.

We can get into elemental Sulphur, disease, weeds whenever you want. A good NPK/mowing/watering(basic agronomy) program should put you in the go zone.

You're rate is good. I'll be getting GrubEx down the next couple weeks too.

Derek, what is your opinion of a spraying a product like Dominion 2L Termiticide for grub control over granular GrubEx. It will cost me 2x30 bucks plus tax for the GrubEx vs. 10 bucks spraying the Dominion product. Only used the GrubEx in the past because I didn`t have a sprayer. I do believe you get longer protection with the GrubEx though.

Hey Derek, are you starting to put water down from your sprinkler system yet? How much should I be targeting per week for now? I've run mine to water in the per-emergent, fertilizer, etc. but I haven't started running a schedule yet.

Have you guys heard of this stuff? Quali-Pro Negate 37WG Herbicide

I was reading about ways to treat poa and found this. - Amazon Link

I don't FaceBook but you might have read about using it on there as I know it's a popular product discussed this time of year on there. Wipe you mind from Negate and pretend you've never heard of it. That is not a product to mess around with. It's two active ingredients mixed into one bottle. The designed use is to make up a full one acre mix of 20-80 gallons then pull from that mix. There is no way to accurately measure and pull just a little bit from the bottle and put in a one gallon pump to spot spray or even in a 4gal backpack sprayer and blanket spray. How To With Doc's dumb arse started this a few years ago on his YT. He pulled that video down pretty quickly as a ton of professionals turned that video into the dept of Ag. I am far from being a professional but I feel very comfortable spraying many chemicals and Negate is a product I will never consider using. You screw up a little bit and the MSM in that will smoke just about any tree you have. Many other ways to kill Poa. Most Poa is up while your bermuda is still dormant in Feb/March. Hit it with 41% Gly(roundup) during dormancy There are other post options. Like Tpack mentioned Sertay, you can go with Simazine and a few others.

TPack you will appreciate this. This is when Matt was doing a radio show a few days a week a few years ago and when How To With Idiot dropped his Negate YT. Matt goes off. By far his best episode ever.

https://podbay.fm/p/the-grass-factor/e/1590441825

Have you guys heard of this stuff? Quali-Pro Negate 37WG Herbicide

I was reading about ways to treat poa and found this. - Amazon Link

I don't FaceBook but you might have read about using it on there as I know it's a popular product discussed this time of year on there. Wipe you mind from Negate and pretend you've never heard of it. That is not a product to mess around with. It's two active ingredients mixed into one bottle. The designed use is to make up a full one acre mix of 20-80 gallons then pull from that mix. There is no way to accurately measure and pull just a little bit from the bottle and put in a one gallon pump to spot spray or even in a 4gal backpack sprayer and blanket spray. How To With Doc's dumb arse started this a few years ago on his YT. He pulled that video down pretty quickly as a ton of professionals turned that video into the dept of Ag. I am far from being a professional but I feel very comfortable spraying many chemicals and Negate is a product I will never consider using. You screw up a little bit and the MSM in that will smoke just about any tree you have. Many other ways to kill Poa. Most Poa is up while your bermuda is still dormant in Feb/March. Hit it with 41% Gly(roundup) during dormancy There are other post options. Like Tpack mentioned Sertay, you can go with Simazine and a few others.

TPack you will appreciate this. This is when Matt was doing a radio show a few days a week a few years ago and when How To With Idiot dropped his Negate YT. Matt goes off. By far his best episode ever.

https://podbay.fm/p/the-grass-factor/e/1590441825

2nd time typing this ....Ok, here`s my take on Negate from a novice`s standpoint. The Rimsulfuron is the active ingredient killing the Poa. It also contains Metsulfuron-Methl which does not kill Poa at all. Metsulfuron-Methyl is also the active ingredient in MSM Turf which is a great product (Cheap), but it can do lots of damage if it is not applied properly. Matt Martin does a great job in this video talking about MSM Turf and how easy it is to over apply and FU your soil. This stuff stays in the soil a very long time also. I plan to use the MSM Turf ( Metsulfuron-Methyl) and spot spray only when I can`t use a 2 4,D product due to heat restrictions like I did last summer when I had the Spurge Surge as Derek calls it.

Conclusion: If I were just trying to kill Poa Annua, I would use a safer product to keep from applying the Metsulfuron-Methyl to my soil when it serves no purpose.
Derek, correct me if I`m wrong.