What size Lithium batterie do I need to run Garmin echomap UHD 93sv, and Garmin Panoptix Live scope?

It depends on how long you want that battery to run, but typically between 24-30Ah will cover that application.

This covers the math behind it, it's pretty easy

I did 30ah

I used a normal lead acid but have the black box and unit hooked up to only that battery. Used it all day and have had no issues but charge it when I get home overnight each time. I really wondered about the lithium batteries and if they're needed. So far, all good without.

You are running a tiny load, drop a 16” and a 12”, along with LS/AT and watch your battery kick the bucket. The lithiums last longer and are lighter in weight, hence why some put them in rod lockers. You could run that small graph and LS for 2 days on your lead acid or 5 days on a lithium. Just because you don’t understand it, doesn’t mean that others don’t either.

I am installing a Powerhouse lithium 16 V and run and gun charger next week to run Garmin I will report back after trying it

No need for a dedicated battery for livescope, it only uses 1.5a. If you’re already running all your electronics off your cranking battery and that puts it over the edge you didn’t have a big enough battery to begin with.

On my 125AH Ionics starting battery if I leave scope on all day and 3 helixes w Mega 360 my cranker will be at 60% if I don't run big motor. This is without livewell going. I am opting for the dedicated and for the 16V so two reasons for me.

100ah minimum of your running more than two units on the battery. Don't run it on the starting battery. If you fish allot, 3x days a week 100ah. If you fish 3-4 times a month prob could get by with something smaller. Put units in standby when you are not using them. Helps allot

I am using a Garmin and live scope 2x a week, 50AH maybe?

Depending on your budget, Weize has a pretty solid option with low temperature charging protection amongst other very competitive features.

https://amzn.to/3FyMeiG

I know you're and ionic guy but what is making you go with the 16v from powerhouse?

Haha.

He fell for the gimmick.

Please explain.

I have known Chris for many years and he is one of the most intelligent and innovative people around.

What gimmick?

Some people think a higher voltage battery will give a clearer picture, it doesn't as the units internal voltage is regulated. What a 16v battery will do is give about 30% more run time over a 12v battery of equal amperage. Thats the plus side, down side is higher costs and you'll need a separate charger.

Yep TMD nailed it, I don’t know if Tiltman is on the other boating forum, but the power house salesman there pushes the “16v is better” bs to everyone.


It makes sense to have a 12v on a dedicated electronics and even better if that 12 is starter rated. Now you would have the ability to start your motor from 2 different lithium sources, if your extra battery is a 16v, you are not able to use it as a starting battery in an emergency. Drop 2 - 125 or 100 Ionics and you have every situation covered. No extra funky 16v charger to go out with no replacement to be found, other than the internet. It’s his money to do as he chooses, but it’s still a gimmick with no real advantages.


For the Lowrance users reading this, you must have a voltage regulator installed when using this 16v setup. Garmin is more forgiving and it’s not required.

Edit: Sometimes guys with subpar wiring (many factory installs) claim to get better images with the 16v and that is because they were losing so much voltage drop. Instead of getting 12.6-13.4volts, by the time it got to their graphs, it was down to 11–12v. This is the only time the 16v, would actually help, but rewiring the boat would help more.

For what it's worth, if you're not afraid of having a Lithium as a cranking/house battery the 125a Ionic will suffice for 99% of users. I'm running a 250 SHO and don't run around the lake a lot when fishing a tournament. In fact some days I'll go the whole 8 hours and not start the big motor until its time to get back to the ramp. It also powers 3 12" Helix's that are networked, a Garmin 1222 w/ Livescope, pumps, lights, poles, ect. I don't think I've ever seen it below 60% at the end of the day. The battery it replaced was a X2 and under the same conditions it would be down to 11-11.2vdc.

Another disadvantage to the 16v, should a TM battery die, you can’t swap it around and keep on going. All batteries stay 12 and you’ll always have swap arounds in a dead battery event.

When I started using livescope I used the batteries from my dewalt chain saw the 12 AH flex volt they would show 20v then drop as they got closer to running out. I visually noticed sharper definition the first few hours like the difference in dirty water vs clear water. Secondly I don’t think there is a better live scope user on the planet than Ben Milliken , yes he’s a bit odd but if he’s selling it I will “fall” for the gimmick as some believe it is. The longer run time basted on voltage is also a plus. The run and gun system basically leaches off the 12v cranker during running and charging so I figure it’s an easy way to keep the 5th battery charged without much effort.

Lastly I can afford it , I don’t spend money on pretty like so many here do just functionality and performance


Make sense ?


PS I am to wiring what you are to ceramic tile , my wiring is over kill for sure

I just bought the Garmin Panoptix live scope from bass pro on sale and will power it with Milwaukee 20V. 6ah on graft and 20V. 8ah on live scope. Is there anyone else doing this?

The 6AH \ 8 AH will work but you will be frustrated with how long. When I did my dewalts I used two 12AH through a day of fishing.

We run an 8616 and a 122SV on a 100ah Gyll from Shut up and Fish all day long!

That’s a nice setup there!

I did get to test the 16V out, can't say it was magically better as far as clarity goes but am impressed for sure with how little it (122 and box) pulls on the higher voltage if I run the motor much at all I will never have to charge that battery.

Group 31 X2 AGM