I haven't yet. I'll try to in the next day or so. If you find one. Meet with them and get a full layout on what their plan is and a full list of chemicals they use.

Hey Derek, should I go ahead and put down my 13-13-13 with this cold front or wait some? I was getting some really good green up but not sure what this cold weather is going to do.

I’d wait. Specially since the cool temps are coming. I plan on starting April 1st

Roger that, thanks!

Ok boys. It’s go time. Let’s get a how it started and how it ended season going. Here’s my start. No applications yet. Starting next weekend.

Hers my start....LOL

That's not bad. You can get that rocking. What all did you do last year?

I was laying down a Lesco fertilizer (cant recall what it was exactly) about every two months along with Ironite. I also put down insecticides and fungicides as I thought I needed to based on random internet information. There was some weed killer in there somwhere too. Irigation runs once a week for 10 minutes followed immediately by another 30. Mow at 3 inches once a week. Then last summer I gave up because nothing I did was improving anything and bare spots kept getting larger. Have been paying TrueGreen for their [censored] service and still no improvement. Aerated in the fall. Took soil samples recently (havent sent them in yet, procrastinator) and noticed the front lawn seems like the builder just laid sod down over whatever clay/gravel mixture was left after the build. Topsoil doesnt seem to be very thick but I am not willing to pay the cost to rip it all up and start over.

So you have a good idea on what to do. I think if you change your approach and products you can see some good results. First. Find a fertilizer like APF 13-13-13 or 15-5-10. Most local feed stores have it. That is an Ammonium Sulfate based nitrogen vs mostly Urea that is in the Lesco. Do light feedings more often. So 13-13-13 you would apply 2lbs of product per 1000sq feet every 4 weeks. That will give you 0.250lbs of actual N 2per 1000. Most bag rates of commercial products will put down 0.9lbs of N. Which is a lot. If that coating is compromised in anyway it becomes an all fast release fert and none of it slow release, so you're not planning on ferting for 8 weeks, well all that fert got used up in 4 weeks so the next 4 weeks you're getting no response. With our heat and humidity it's really tough to judge how long that slow release will last. So I don't prefer to use any slow release. APF is an all fast release. And I will know if I put out X amount of product I will get a 4 week response from it. So if you put down Lesco 3 times last year, you put down 2.7lbs of actual N. You put down APF 7 times a year at .250 you get about 1.75-2lbs of N. Should be all you need. Hope that makes sense.

Ironite is garbage. Specially the granular. Iron oxide is not readily plant available and good get locked up in the soil and never be plant available. You need a chelated iron. It is immediately available to the plant. This is one from SLS. Decent product.
https://simplelawnsolutions.com/collections/iron/products/lawn-energizer-32oz

I like they way you water. But I would make sure it's dialed in. Get a couple rain gauges and put them in each zone and water like you do. See what's in the gauge. You want to shoot for 1/2". I have 2 zones doing a 10 then 30 would be prefect. If I did that in my other zones it would put down about 2" of water.

We can get into elemental Sulphur, disease, weeds whenever you want. A good NPK/mowing/watering(basic agronomy) program should put you in the go zone.

Haven’t done a single thing to the lawn but scalped and pre emergent

Here's my start. I'm planning my first app of 13-13-13 next weekend.

Hey Derek,

I didn't pay attention to the fertilizer they loaded. I thought I was getting APF but I got BCF. Is this stuff ok?

You're fine. Limestone isn't something you typically chase/source in our area with our already high calcium, high Ph soils, but that Dolomitic will help you with your low Mag numbers.

Ok thanks! I'll pay more attention next time. I actually saw some 13-13-13 at Tractor Supply last time I was there. They didn't have it on their website.

You'll find T13 pretty much everywhere. A lot of them use the same P and K source. Main difference will be some use Ammonium Sulfate as their N source and added sulphur, and some/most use Urea as their N source. Yours has Ammonium Sulfate in the form of the diammonium phosphate, then a little added urea to make up the rest of the N source.