That would not be good for a guitar player. Super glue will dry quick when it gets wet. If it is not bleeding much the glue works, but yours was pretty bad and jagged like you said. Going to the ER was the right move.

It's soil test season boys and girls. The next 6 weeks or so is a perfect time to get it done. On page one of this thread I mention how to do a A&M test. I use Wapoint. Somewhere in this thread I've explained how to send in a Waypoint sample. Stay away from soil test you can get from a box store or like MySoil you can get from Amazon. Use a real lab. It's cheap and effective. Not going to expand on it. If this is your first time doing a soil test and you're interested post it up and I will explain in better detail. If you've done a soil test in the past and know the process go ahead and send it.

I've never done a soil test so any help is appreciated.

Simple process. Fill this form out. Make sure to put your email and cell # on there. They will call you for CC once they receive it the email you the results. On this form. put an X in the SW1 box. Field ID box put Front Yard or Back yard. Whatever area you are having sampled. Find your turfgrass type number and put that number in the Intended Crop Code box. Collect samples as noted on the link. If your doing your front yard go around and get 10-15 different samples. You want soil from the 1"-4-5" depth. You don't need the top 1". You can use a hand shovel or get a cheap soil probe off amazon. Just make sure your shovel is clean. I wear nitrile gloves just to make suire there is nothing on my hands to contaminate the soil. Throw it all in a ziploc bag and mail it to the Memphis address on the form. Waypoint also has an app you can download and they will load the results to it as well. It's not the most user friendly app in the world, but a good place to keep your docs so you can find past results easily.

https://www.waypointanalytical.com/...t-AF1SoilSamplingforHomeLawnsGardens.pdf

https://www.waypointanalytical.com/...udesSWandSCpackagesWestern-Tennessee.pdf

Thanks Derek.

I have a St. Augustine yard (bought it that way) and am struggling with bare spots and brown patches. We have been in this house for about 2 years and I have done everything I have read to try and correct my problems, to no avail. I have had two lawn companies come out and they are no help. I have had truegreen coming out for about a year, which I feel is just a waste of my money as nothing has improved. I think I read on here before that you call these companies "spray and pray" companies. I cannot seem to find any independent lawn specialist for these issues in my area (Bell County). Everyone I find are either spray and pray companies or just lawn care (mow and trim) fellas. Any idea how I can find and recruit a local specialist to help me cure my woes?

You have grub worms..... June Bug larva.

Finding a good full service lawn guy is no easy. Most are based on sales and gimmicks not science. I'll look around for you. If Greeenen chimes in. You could probably copy his program and do great. He's about 10 miles from you and had one of the better TX soil test I've seen in years. He has St Aug and it looks great. .

I have mostly St Augustine and I think as it ages it is vey hard to keep up with. Some years if the rain/temps/heat is right it's OK but as the yearly cycles go on it take a big toll on it. Lightly overdressing with soil seems to help some. But I have drainage issues and it's heck to keep up with.

Trickster. Give me a rundown on your yearly program. Do you have irrigation? Mowing height? Drainage issues areas are obviously going to be a problem. I find St Aug to be pretty easy. My main two concerns are disease and chinch bugs. A few guys here have their St. Aug banging with making a few adjustments. Hard Rain is one. I know I preach soil test a lot. But it's something I would do and taylor to what you need. If I'm going St Aug on my soil it would need a 1-1-1, where Greenen I mentioned could run a 21-0-0 for a couple years at least. You need to stay ahead of the disease pressure, watering needs to be on point, NPK, mowing height of 2-2.5"(I know people recommend 3-4") You can play around with that. My height would 2". Just basic good agronomy of mowing often, watering, fertilizing will produce results.

I appreciate it, as well as the input from everyone else. I'm not afraid of the labor, just feel like I need some direction. We bought the house about 6 months after it was built, so the lawn is only about two and half years old. Since owning it, I have applied insecticides for cinch bugs, grubs, etc., fungicides, fertilization, and supplements (Ironite). Pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control. I have automated irrigation running once a week. Had the yard aerated. During the growing season I mow once a week at 3". Currently wasting money on TrueGreen. I just dont know what else to do. I do, however, plan on taking soil samples this weekend.

You're on the right path. What fertilizer did you use last year and how often did you apply it? I would ditch the ironite. It's garbage. If you want to apply iron for color, you seed to be spraying a cheleated form of it. Try and start mowing twice a week. I would do an irrigation test and see how much water you're putting down. Get a couple cheap rain gauges and put them in a zone. Run the irrigation for 20 minutes and see how much water is in the gauges. If you have a 1/4" of water then you know you need to run that zone 40 minutes to put down a 1/2" of water. Do that for all your zones.

It was a Lesco product, cant recall off the top of my head which one. I was applying it every 2 months (or as close as I could get to that). I haven't done an irrigation test, but I was running each zone for 10 minutes and then another round immediately for another 30.

Label rate on most bags will put down 0.90lbs of Nitrogen. It may say it was slow release and feeds up to 8 weeks.You might/probably not gettting an 8 week response out of that I would switch. I would switch to an all fast release and do every 4 weeks to push growth. Once you get your results back you'll know which NPK ratio to use. Then go to Lesco and tell them you want say a 15-5-10 but you want the nitrogen to be either Ammonium Sulfate or Ammonium Nitrate based and not Urea. Once you know I will look at their site and see what they have. Most feed stores stock APF brand and it is a Ammonium Sulfate based nitrogen. I'm not a big fan of pushing a ton of N on St Aug but to push growth your going to run a decent amount. I would run 0.50lbs of N every 4 weeks. April-September. Keep a close eye out for gray leaf spot. You get that and you'll need to shut off your fertilizer until you get it under control. Apply elemental Sulphur 3 times a year at 5lbs per 1000

You're watering might be spot on or way off. I have a couple zones that are 45 minutes and some that are 10. Get that dialed in so you're getting down the correct amount.

With as warm as it’s been, I might put down some pre this weekend (I know it’ll probably freeze again around Valentine’s Day)