Why? They are correct.

Thanks Joel. Feel free to leave the thread at any time.

Thanks guys, for whatever reason, I’ve struggled to understand how they differ and why they’re both there. This helps.

Tie on the lure you are going to throw. Hold your rod at a 45 degree angle with your lure dangling about a foot below the rod tip. The spool tension knob will be on the side of your reel along with the cranking handle. Push the thumb bar. This knob will control how fast the lure falls. If it doesn't fall, loosen the knob. If it falls too fast, tighten up the knob. The lure should fall and when it hits the floor, your spool should not backlash. After your have the tension knob adjusted properly, set the centrifugal (or magnetic) "brakes" as high as possible. Start making practice casts. At first, you will not be able to cast very far. Lessen the brake adjustment one setting a time and make more practice casts. Eventually you will begin to get minor back lashes. At that point, increase the adjustment one click back on the brake.

The more time you spend fishing with a bait caster, the better you will get at it. But remember, no bait caster is "backlash proof."

The knob by the handle controls how fast your bait falls off the spool initially. The brakes control the end of your cast. (replacing or helping your thumb at the end of the cast)

Jon, lets have lunch again and bring your rod & reel. I'll show you how to adjust it for optimum casting distance with minimal backlash. I keep having to reschedule with the good doctor Bean. I am anxious to see his new toy. Lets coordinate that meeting.

Can you just stick with fairy wands for now?

I hope they add another knob to the top of the reel, just to confuse Frank more

Frank the Tank can you explain to me the advantages of using fluorocarbon fishing line over monofilament fishing line?