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Trot line Ray Hubbard #13712111 09/26/20 07:18 PM
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Just bought a boat and trying to catch fish with my 9 year old son.
We have a trotline out on Hubbard. Just checked today for first time. 1 small channel cat.
We are set near the woods north of 66 bridge in about 10ft of water.
Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Caught the one today on bacon. Have hooks with shad as well.
Thanks for any info!

Wet Rooster Jigs Fishing Super Store
Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13712262 09/26/20 09:33 PM
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Are your shad fresh? Fresh shad make a big difference, either whole or cut. Get some red wigglers & ya'll catch some bream, use those alive or cut also. Lots of baits you can use, but these 2 work best for my lines when I run 'em. Good luck & good on you taking the boy fishing! thumb

Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13712301 09/26/20 10:12 PM
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Location , Day or night And bait is key . Chicken breast in a variety of marinades/seasonings my personal favorite is garlic salt and beer. Hot dogs cheap bar s weenies. shad (fresh) frozen will get bit but it’s a waste of time to me . Perch in a variety of forms cut , whole , dead , alive if your going with live perch I might suggest a bigger hook it will Break your heart to pull a hook up and have it bent out straight .

If your looking to just enjoy the art throw whatever on and check when you feel like it . Switch up baits and locations see what works .

If your freezer stocking throw on the weenies or chicken and check every couple hours.channels should tear it up .

You want monsters live perch (Good size) bigger hooks prime time is usually around 2-5 am don’t check constantly check from a far if possible . You’ll know when there’s one on there whirlpools and dancing line clap woot
They do sit still after a while tho .So don’t let your guard down when you go to check that’s how all the accidents I’ve ever heard of happen .

Good luck and hope y’all land a big one

Last edited by Nickbyrd; 09/26/20 10:17 PM.
Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13713030 09/27/20 04:09 PM
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First off, not familiar with your lake or area you put the trotline out in, but here a few trotline tips...

1) Utilize my Catfish Calendar (see the thread of Lynn's Catfish Calendar, as to what to target on the days you are running it). Also use Bleedover to increase your odds, which is about a 12 hour max ahead & beyond the calendar "sigs" (greatest pull that particular day). As well as my PYC days.

2) In shallow or deep water, I use a 36 hook trotline. This allows me the 2 trotline limit. It totals 72 hooks, leaving me 28 hooks still to use in other methods. Such as juglines or throwlines, which I can have 6 or 7 at 4 hooks each, or 5 at 5 hooks each. If you go 6 at 4 hooks each, that allows you 4 extra for perhaps R-n-R, or single set hooks (or even 1 hook floating jugs). At 5 hooks each, you would have 5 available for that. So you see, a little diversity is allowed if you don't max out on 50 hooks per trotline. With jugs, or throwlines, you can set them in other various spots, increasing your chances of catches. With trotlines, you have to depend on dropping them right into an area of fish, or their usual paths, or entice them with your baits.

3) Catfish feed by three main ways- sight, smell, and their instincts instilled (what I refer to, as their roam-feed circuit switch). It is nature's way of kicking them out the door to "go fish" for their food. This item is what my Catfish Calendar & PYC days are geared for.

4) It seems that Tru-Turn hooks keyed in on several themes or findings. Fish tend to choose the color red, because perhaps it is the colors of gills & blood. So red hooks and red baits may be to your advantage, be it live bait, fixed bait, and such. Tru-Turn also found that by placing a specific bend in their hook created a twist & turn which helps to set the hook better compared to a standard "J" hook (short or long shank).

5) Circle hooks provide a different method of angle, which allows the hook to pierce as they try to expel it, as they might suck the bait off the hook, but feel something odd & decide to get rid of it. On circle hooks, you do not yank it to set the hook, as the fish sets it for you.

6) Standard "J" hooks need a boost sometimes to catch the fish, therefore you give the line a jerk. In a sense, it will grab the lip or sides of the mouth on its way out, by expulsion or your tug. However, with a trotline, it will have to be done the natural way, as mainly you will not be able to hold your line & tug it for every bite.

7) If fishing for YellowCats, definitely use my Calendar and also my separate PYC days. Try to set the trotline out in a known path or region that they congregate, or move in their paths as they roam-feed.

8) Back to trotline design. You want to have your leaders at between 18" to 15" long. This allows a sort of "give" (slack) once they have hooked themselves. It is best to have brass brads to place your leaders with, as the brads can give if you have a big one. Oddly enough, "The Giant" has moved brads only once in my encounters with it. It seemed to be because I had the line set out in its direct path, so as it grabbed the perch, it just never stopped until the leader hit the loop for a weight. Other than that, it has not moved my brads. And I use large barrel swivels. I use 4/0 or 3/0 SS or 3/0 Brass barrel swivels only. Do not use the three ways, as they will snap out. "The Giant" has snapped one out on me. So for big ones, don't use them. The same goes for clips that come with barrel swivels. DO not use them either, as it will lose cats over 30 pounds as they stretch the clip out. If you can only find the barrel swivels with clips, they cost more, but you can remove the clips. If you do not want swivels, Newt (one of my YellowCat teachers did not like them) taught me another method that works quite well. A hitch knot as you put it on the main line, then run the hook to add another knot on each side. This secures the leader, but the extra knot on each side helps to lock it in, to prevent easily sliding. Plus he was the one to teach me to use longer leaders, as well as hooking perch in the center bone before the tails, so they could churn the waters better.

9) Further as to trotline design. The 36 hookers are slightly different as to my SW (Shallow Water) & DW (Deep Water) trotlines. But basically in the SW design, I incorporate 4 main sections of 9 each. However, the outer section on each end has been subsectioned into two. It goes something like this ... end section, loop, 3, loop, 6, loop, 9, center loop, 9, loop, 6, loop, 3, loop, end section. As you tie the line, you want 4 to 6 feet before the first loop. But you also have to allow what you are tying around, be it a small stump, branch, or whatnot, as well as a huge stump or log. Be sure & figure that amount nto your end section, or add it on, if needed. The loops are for smaller weights or bottles, or both. The center loops will have a slightly larger weight (usually no bottle unless you feel the need).

10) Going further, the first & second weights have to do with pulling the line down, to keep them out of boat propellers (main motor or trolling). So that, in a sense, the line goes down like one side of a "V". This will save you the headache of a cut or busted line, or another boater cussing your line snaggled up in their prop. I also use a single knot, then a half bow for tying the main lines to each end, also known as a slip knot. This enables you to untie your line easily without cutting it.

11) Depending upon your preference, the law says the leaders must be 3 feet apart. I utilize just a hair more, maybe 3' and an inch or so, up to 40" in my SW trotlines. Out in the deep water, my DW may be at 4', 5' or 6' apart as to the leader settings (placing your brads).

12) When making up my trotlines, I figure out which I am making, and jot down the figures. I sit in my recliner with my Sears 3' Tri-Level. I count out my swivels, and put them on a full new roll of green size 36 3-strand twist nylon. I tie a double knot at the end I start, then slide the swivels over to the far side or in a certain manner (I'll let you figure that out). Then I place & crimp brads as I go, as well as add the loops. Be sure & space the loops out just like you are doing for the leaders. This helps to keep from fish getting tangled with your weight cords. You want about 2 fingers width between brads. You can also add plastic beads (such as from Wal-Mart) in between brads. Naturally, what color- red, of course. Hopefully they won't bite the beads but get drawn to the bait by it. This helps in swiveling the barrel swivel, which of course cuts down on rolling Cats that will tend to twist and get off.

13) If using 16.9 ounce or so small bottles on the loops, you are using them to pull the line up to keep the leaders (hooks) off the actual bottom of the lake or river. First off, you want to make sure the cord for weights is longer than your leaders length. I usually go 18" on leaders & about 36" on the weight cords. You can go about 12" for the bottles cord. Be sure to go around the neck twice & tighten very good.

14) When I set my trotlines out, I run the main cord & tie it off, as long as you are not blocking anyone. Then next step is add the weights to get the line down & out of everybody's way. From that run, then I reverse & add leaders with hooks, and the bottles as I see fit. You can put bait on this run or reverse it once again to do that. As per your bottles, set in the water & allow to fill up completely. Then empty out just a slight bit. Just enough to set the bottle in the water & see that it stays afloat. Once you figure out the minimum, then do so with the others. This helps to pull the main line up & keep the hooks off the bottom. As to how much slack you want on he main line, it depends on what you are fishing for, small or big, or both. You do want it tight enough to let the center weight to pull it down. You do not want to be too tight or too slack.

15) Also, you may need to count into play the new floating object regulation at each end, that was implemented recently (this year), as to your loops. I was hoping to finally see it in writing in the new booklet, but they may or may not have that available anymore. I'll have to read up again about specifics online.

16) As to baits, it depends as to what you are fishing for, as well as what my calendar says to try for. But have at least 3 or more for variety. You never want to depend on just one or two. You can even have treble hooks with sponges for stink/dough/punch baits on your trotline. Or even try the sour gummy worms (candy), as some have tried it recently & it works.

There ya go, Better Luck!!!


Lynn
aka "Catfish"
Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13713033 09/27/20 04:13 PM
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Also, you did not tell us what kind of boat or length.


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Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13713140 09/27/20 06:14 PM
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Personally, I'm giving up on Shad on anything but rod and reel. I was tearing them up on Jug Lines with Chicken breast and various Jello and seasoning marinades, switched to live and cut shad, live and cut bluegill, and had nothing but stolen baits since. Last weekend hooked them through the back behind the dorsal fin, last night hooked them through the mouth, as well as having some cut bait out. Haven't caught anything since getting away from chicken breast.

Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13713301 09/27/20 09:44 PM
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It’s cooling off enough that baits will live all night, I’d be baiting up with all live bait. Sunfish, bullheads, small carp, and small drum would all make good options.

Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13713748 09/28/20 03:35 AM
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Don't feel bad, as I have never had any luck with shad that I know of. Ronnie was going to teach me how he used shad on juglines on Lake Limestone, but would only go out if no wind. So I never got to take him out. He was raised on the river before iot became a lake at the north end. His aunt was my Mom's best friend, as she was from Groesbeck too (out in the country past Box Church..


Lynn
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Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13715770 09/30/20 01:14 AM
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Great read



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Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: Nickbyrd] #13715918 09/30/20 03:24 AM
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Where do you get chicken breast cheap enough to use for bait?

Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: Catfish Lynn] #13715940 09/30/20 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Catfish Lynn
Also, you did not tell us what kind of boat or length.


Catfish Lynn,

Wow! Thanks for all the info. I really appreciate your time. Your data is impressive. I will certainly put to good use.
Caught a couple good ones today (around 20#). Had a smaller 5 pounder or so get away, and one small cull. We caught them on expired bacon. Had one leader broke and one hook half straightened out. 100# leader and 6/0 Circle Mustad UltraPoint Demon hook. I read where you talked about different styles of hooks, but did not see where you stated a hook size.
What size hooks?
If you did tell me please pardon I’m on my phone not computer.
Baited today, with mix of bacon, frozen shad, and crawlers. Will be approx 26hr soak when we check tomorrow.

As far as the boat, it was a father’s day gift from my Father. Pretty cool. It was his, but he doesn’t fish much anymore.
2001 Nova boat. Welded aluminum. Around 17ft. Johnson 50. Runs like a top.

Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13715970 09/30/20 04:35 AM
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As to chicken breast (boneless)... from time to time, Krogers or HEB will have it on sale. Dave, one who has been using the calendar for 7 years or more, tends to bait his juglines with either chicken breast soaked in Dead Red spray. Here, Wal-Mart carries it. And sometimes he will use Bar S wieners soaking Dead Red spray. Check out one of haul's & brief at:
<http://texasfishingforum.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/11941303/Re:_Meat_Haul#Post11941303>
-OR-
<http://texasfishingforum.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/11941303/>

Sounds like you are in a good area from your last noted results, especially with a broken leader & a partially bent out 6/0 hook.

As for me, I utilize these brands & sizes:

Eagle Claw 5/0 , 6/0 , 9/0 SS "J" O'Shaunessy or trotline hooks
Mustad "J" 6/0 SS hooks
Mustad 7/0 & 9/0 SS Stump Hooks (short "J") [3X aka triple strength]
Eagle Claw 4/0 to 5/0 Circle tin (or zinc) hooks
TruTurn 4/0 , 5/0 , 6/0 , 7/0 , 8/0 Perma-Steel Hooks (not SS)

Also, Jeff & James use Eagle Claw bronze (or bronzed) 9/0 offset hooks and have caught several 62 pound Yellows, as well as "The Giant" once. That is until it waved goodbye, then it either snapped the swivel or leader.

I am not familiar with the size of your leader. My main line & leader lines are usually size 36 3-strand twist & sometimes braided (I prefer soild braid). I sometimes use size 48. "The Giant" however snapped my 36 braided leader & took the hook on May 5th, 2018. Sadly, I did not know which type I had on there. It did not dawn on me until I was right over it, that IT was on my line. I then saw that my size 36 braided green had a core in it. I thought I had gotten solid braid. I will be using size 96 this next round

Does the boat have a scope (Fish Finder)? This way, you can check the area at different times to see what sort of activity is down below. I am not familiar with the brand of boat. I mainly was seeing if you had a larger or smaller one, as well as if you had a fish finder on it. Not sure if Harbor Freight Tools still sells a Portable Fish Finder. If so, it used to be around $40 some 10 to 14 years back. Mine is running around here somewhere. It uses batteries, plus you can make some rig to place it on, as well as get a small plastic 1 gallon or 2 gallon pail or bucket. Put a little water in it & you don't have to hange it out of the boat. Just allow the difference (water in the bucket & the thickness of the hull) to add to whatever depth it shows. This way you can see the depth, as well as fish below.


Lynn
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Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13715998 09/30/20 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by AGaddy
Where do you get chicken breast cheap enough to use for bait?

Heb has the family value Pack of breast . Big ol fat breast, a lot, and fairly cheap.

Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: Catfish Lynn] #13716000 09/30/20 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Catfish Lynn
First off, not familiar with your lake or area you put the trotline out in, but here a few trotline tips...

1) Utilize my Catfish Calendar (see the thread of Lynn's Catfish Calendar, as to what to target on the days you are running it). Also use Bleedover to increase your odds, which is about a 12 hour max ahead & beyond the calendar "sigs" (greatest pull that particular day). As well as my PYC days.

2) In shallow or deep water, I use a 36 hook trotline. This allows me the 2 trotline limit. It totals 72 hooks, leaving me 28 hooks still to use in other methods. Such as juglines or throwlines, which I can have 6 or 7 at 4 hooks each, or 5 at 5 hooks each. If you go 6 at 4 hooks each, that allows you 4 extra for perhaps R-n-R, or single set hooks (or even 1 hook floating jugs). At 5 hooks each, you would have 5 available for that. So you see, a little diversity is allowed if you don't max out on 50 hooks per trotline. With jugs, or throwlines, you can set them in other various spots, increasing your chances of catches. With trotlines, you have to depend on dropping them right into an area of fish, or their usual paths, or entice them with your baits.

3) Catfish feed by three main ways- sight, smell, and their instincts instilled (what I refer to, as their roam-feed circuit switch). It is nature's way of kicking them out the door to "go fish" for their food. This item is what my Catfish Calendar & PYC days are geared for.

4) It seems that Tru-Turn hooks keyed in on several themes or findings. Fish tend to choose the color red, because perhaps it is the colors of gills & blood. So red hooks and red baits may be to your advantage, be it live bait, fixed bait, and such. Tru-Turn also found that by placing a specific bend in their hook created a twist & turn which helps to set the hook better compared to a standard "J" hook (short or long shank).

5) Circle hooks provide a different method of angle, which allows the hook to pierce as they try to expel it, as they might suck the bait off the hook, but feel something odd & decide to get rid of it. On circle hooks, you do not yank it to set the hook, as the fish sets it for you.

6) Standard "J" hooks need a boost sometimes to catch the fish, therefore you give the line a jerk. In a sense, it will grab the lip or sides of the mouth on its way out, by expulsion or your tug. However, with a trotline, it will have to be done the natural way, as mainly you will not be able to hold your line & tug it for every bite.

7) If fishing for YellowCats, definitely use my Calendar and also my separate PYC days. Try to set the trotline out in a known path or region that they congregate, or move in their paths as they roam-feed.

8) Back to trotline design. You want to have your leaders at between 18" to 15" long. This allows a sort of "give" (slack) once they have hooked themselves. It is best to have brass brads to place your leaders with, as the brads can give if you have a big one. Oddly enough, "The Giant" has moved brads only once in my encounters with it. It seemed to be because I had the line set out in its direct path, so as it grabbed the perch, it just never stopped until the leader hit the loop for a weight. Other than that, it has not moved my brads. And I use large barrel swivels. I use 4/0 or 3/0 SS or 3/0 Brass barrel swivels only. Do not use the three ways, as they will snap out. "The Giant" has snapped one out on me. So for big ones, don't use them. The same goes for clips that come with barrel swivels. DO not use them either, as it will lose cats over 30 pounds as they stretch the clip out. If you can only find the barrel swivels with clips, they cost more, but you can remove the clips. If you do not want swivels, Newt (one of my YellowCat teachers did not like them) taught me another method that works quite well. A hitch knot as you put it on the main line, then run the hook to add another knot on each side. This secures the leader, but the extra knot on each side helps to lock it in, to prevent easily sliding. Plus he was the one to teach me to use longer leaders, as well as hooking perch in the center bone before the tails, so they could churn the waters better.

9) Further as to trotline design. The 36 hookers are slightly different as to my SW (Shallow Water) & DW (Deep Water) trotlines. But basically in the SW design, I incorporate 4 main sections of 9 each. However, the outer section on each end has been subsectioned into two. It goes something like this ... end section, loop, 3, loop, 6, loop, 9, center loop, 9, loop, 6, loop, 3, loop, end section. As you tie the line, you want 4 to 6 feet before the first loop. But you also have to allow what you are tying around, be it a small stump, branch, or whatnot, as well as a huge stump or log. Be sure & figure that amount nto your end section, or add it on, if needed. The loops are for smaller weights or bottles, or both. The center loops will have a slightly larger weight (usually no bottle unless you feel the need).

10) Going further, the first & second weights have to do with pulling the line down, to keep them out of boat propellers (main motor or trolling). So that, in a sense, the line goes down like one side of a "V". This will save you the headache of a cut or busted line, or another boater cussing your line snaggled up in their prop. I also use a single knot, then a half bow for tying the main lines to each end, also known as a slip knot. This enables you to untie your line easily without cutting it.

11) Depending upon your preference, the law says the leaders must be 3 feet apart. I utilize just a hair more, maybe 3' and an inch or so, up to 40" in my SW trotlines. Out in the deep water, my DW may be at 4', 5' or 6' apart as to the leader settings (placing your brads).

12) When making up my trotlines, I figure out which I am making, and jot down the figures. I sit in my recliner with my Sears 3' Tri-Level. I count out my swivels, and put them on a full new roll of green size 36 3-strand twist nylon. I tie a double knot at the end I start, then slide the swivels over to the far side or in a certain manner (I'll let you figure that out). Then I place & crimp brads as I go, as well as add the loops. Be sure & space the loops out just like you are doing for the leaders. This helps to keep from fish getting tangled with your weight cords. You want about 2 fingers width between brads. You can also add plastic beads (such as from Wal-Mart) in between brads. Naturally, what color- red, of course. Hopefully they won't bite the beads but get drawn to the bait by it. This helps in swiveling the barrel swivel, which of course cuts down on rolling Cats that will tend to twist and get off.

13) If using 16.9 ounce or so small bottles on the loops, you are using them to pull the line up to keep the leaders (hooks) off the actual bottom of the lake or river. First off, you want to make sure the cord for weights is longer than your leaders length. I usually go 18" on leaders & about 36" on the weight cords. You can go about 12" for the bottles cord. Be sure to go around the neck twice & tighten very good.

14) When I set my trotlines out, I run the main cord & tie it off, as long as you are not blocking anyone. Then next step is add the weights to get the line down & out of everybody's way. From that run, then I reverse & add leaders with hooks, and the bottles as I see fit. You can put bait on this run or reverse it once again to do that. As per your bottles, set in the water & allow to fill up completely. Then empty out just a slight bit. Just enough to set the bottle in the water & see that it stays afloat. Once you figure out the minimum, then do so with the others. This helps to pull the main line up & keep the hooks off the bottom. As to how much slack you want on he main line, it depends on what you are fishing for, small or big, or both. You do want it tight enough to let the center weight to pull it down. You do not want to be too tight or too slack.

15) Also, you may need to count into play the new floating object regulation at each end, that was implemented recently (this year), as to your loops. I was hoping to finally see it in writing in the new booklet, but they may or may not have that available anymore. I'll have to read up again about specifics online.

16) As to baits, it depends as to what you are fishing for, as well as what my calendar says to try for. But have at least 3 or more for variety. You never want to depend on just one or two. You can even have treble hooks with sponges for stink/dough/punch baits on your trotline. Or even try the sour gummy worms (candy), as some have tried it recently & it works.

There ya go, Better Luck!!!


Thanks for the info Lynn it’s great read !

Re: Trot line Ray Hubbard [Re: AGaddy] #13716852 10/01/20 03:22 AM
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Not a problem. I may have to modify the ends, as per the new floats rule. I can just add on a strip, without alterring the rest of the main line.

As to the too tight or too loose main line. It's a compromise. The tighter the main line, they get hooked faster, but they can use it to their advantage to get off faster. With more slack, they don't get caught as good but then they can't pry themselves off as easy.


Lynn
aka "Catfish"
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