I sprayed Prodiamine and Isoxaben at the 6 month label rate.

If you have any thin spots in your turf you might want to put some down mid October but if all as thick as the front you will be fine. As thick and nice as the pictures look you have a lot of natural pre-m

I'll go ahead and do a blanket app in 30-45 days. At 0.50oz per 1000 a 2.5 gallon jug is about a 75yr supply. Hope it has a long shelf life.

Hey Derek...man, thanks so much for the guidance you’ve provided thru this forum! I’ve quietly followed your suggestions and this year my yard was drawing envy from all my neighbors! (BTW, I’m pretty sure that’s the point, right?). One request if it’s not too much trouble, would you please continue to provide info (timing, spray-to-drop conversions, brands/products..etc.) for us non-sprayers. Has been a huge help.

Thanks again!

Good to hear. I love talking lawn care. If you would get a soil test we can dial it in. What type of grass do you have? My neighbor came to me in January and wanted me to write him a schedule. He wanted to keep it very simple. He wanted products that he can find at Walmart, except the Pre Emergent. He's loving the results. He came over a few days ago and wants to go even more extreme next year. He wants to get a soil test done in the spring and up his fertilizer amounts, scalp and dethatch. Mine and his are both Bermuda. Here is what he did this year.

Feb 15 - Pre-emergent – Barricade Pre Emergent

March 15th-April 1st- Scotts Southern Lawn Fertilizer (Depending on Temps)

June 1st- Fertilize Scotts Southern Lawn

August 1st. Fertilize. Scotts Southern Lawn

Sept 1st-Barricade Pre Emergent

Sept15th-October 1st. Scotts Southern Lawn

Very simple schedule. His lawn improved tremendously this year. There are 3 of us neighbors that are in a lawn competition every year. I won't tell them all my secrets but help them keep it looking good. This is his. Took it a couple mornings ago. I need to get a better daytime pic.



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A side benefit is that by upping my yard game, others on the street are now working to keep theirs nice. It’s a new house (moved in Oct ‘19), the grass is bermuda and the soil is trash, clay. Corner lot so I have 10k sq ft. Had two BS home builder-quality trees when I moved in and I got rid of them, filled it in and sodded over it.

Followed this ^^ schedule almost exactly. Actually I did follow it exactly but added Anderson’s Humic DG at double rate with every fertilizer application.

I always have scalped in the spring, so I did it here too. I also hand-aerated with a two-prong aerator tool. (I’m an idiot, lawn perfectionist and had lots of time) Gathered and tossed every single core. Made a mixture of Black Kow premium topsoil, Black Kow manure and peat moss in a wheel barrow and spread it over the scalped lawn...so down in the vacant core holes. No hole was more than 3 inches or so from any other one in any direction...worked my a$$ off! Pulled up every rock, stone and boulder I hit with the tool and filled the vacancy with topsoil.

Last note on hand-aeration. Did every bit of it by myself. I could only get about 150 - 250 sq ft section aerated per day, primarily due to how impenetrable the clay soil was. I didn’t want to walk on it at all after coring. By doing small sections I could remove every single bit of clay that came out of the core, amend it all with my mixture and never walk on any of it.

I'm on the same clay sorry arse soil. Soil test will tell you your Ph. But in your area I can almost guarantee you're at a 7.4-8. I would put down 5lbs per 1000 of elemental Sulphur this week. Martin brand sold at Lowes. This week is pretty much the last week to do it as daytime temps will be warm. Do 2 apps a year. April and first of September. My Ph is 7.7 and I've done 2 apps of it this year. Come spring soil test I'll see how much it's gone down. Won't be much as it's a slow process but any will help. If you really want to drive the neighbors crazy but out some liquid iron. With our high Ph iron is bound up in the soil and not readily taken up by the roots, but it is taken up foliar easily. Allyn Hane (The Lawn Care Nut) has some videos of modifying a Ortho Dial Sprayer. I haven't watched the videos of it yet but will link it. Supposedly it works well. Get some Southern AG chelated iron and spray it at 3-4oz per 1000 with the Ortho every 2 weeks. The color change in 24-48 hours will blow your mind. The Southern Ag is chelated so it's less likely to stain concrete and other surfaces. But do your best to only spray the grass and keep if of any concrete or painted surfaces. I use a different product of chelated iron and I have had zero staining issues.

I do a 2 stage scalp. I scalp then run a SunJoe dethatcher across the lawn. It's insane how much thatch it pulls up. Then I scalp again after that to bag everything up. It's a lot of work but worth it. Specially if you want to try and maintain a shorter height of cut. I'll start a lawn care thread and we can all cuss and discuss different things.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiZTAWYEzQw

https://southernag.com/residential-products/chelated-liquid-iron/

Thanks...great stuff! Any opinions on the Anderson’s Humic DG?

Big fan of the Anderson's DG. That the Humic I was using before I started spraying Humic. And it's best to apply it the same day as you apply your fertilizer as you're doing. Look at a fertilizer called Carbon X. Only sold through Allyn Hane and GCI. It's a fert designed by Matt Martin. I'm a big fan of his. He is a science based lawn nerd and owns a company called Carbon Earth. Carbon X (CX-DIY) has micros blended in which is nice. Also has Humic Acid and RGS(Root Growth Stimulator) which is sea kelp. My bermuda loves sea kelp.

If you really want to nerd out and are bored. Matt does a internet radio show M/W/F 3-5pm. And a YT live show on Sunday nights at 8. It's mostly geared towards professionals. But I like it.
https://turfsupradio.com/

What if anything can you put on st augustine?

Sorry Brad. I completely missed your post. You can use the same pre EM's on St Aug. It's the post EM's you gotta be careful with. It's late to put out Pre Em but putting it out now with the rain chances next week is better than putting out nothing. You could put out a 3 month rate of Prodiamine/dithiopyr and Isoxaben. There is not a cheap granular Iso that I know of so if you decide to pass on that it's ok. Broadleaf's are easy to control post. Prodiamine and Dithiopyr are pretty cheap and somewhat easy to source at box stores. Going late I would go with Dithiopyr as it has a post property. Sunniland sold at Lowes makes a good one. Just look at the active ingredient(s) prior to buying.

Brad. Fungus would be my main issue with St Aug. I personally believe spraying fungicide works better than granular, but I still use azoxystrobin granular. Can't beat the price at clearance. I prefer to go with 3 different fungicides as they can build up a resistance. And rotate them. NC State has a good write up on it.There are others.

https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/gray-leaf-spot-in-turf/

Pre emergent going down Friday.


Also ordered some Kelp for next year.

If the Kelp doesn't help the yard at least you'll have a healthy supply of antioxidants for your consumption.

what does this have to do with DIY coach?