You lay the supply spool flat on the floor below the tip of the rod. The line should spiral off the side of the spool and look like a slinky/spring going up the rod tip. The line needs to come off the supply spool the opposite direction that it goes on the reel. This is what does the tit-for-tat to reduce line twist.

Fluorocarbon goes with ANY spinning reel about as calmly as gasoline with a fire. Bad choice. I've found 20# (standard no-frills) PowerPro braid to work great with my smaller spinning reels used in coastal waters. If the water is clear (rarely for me), I can use a 17# co-polymer leader. No fluoro for me in saltwater applications.

Another VERY important thing to do: Close the bail manually by hand. DO NOT turn the handle to make the bail close. If you do it by turning the handle, several twists get put into the line for every cast - each time you close the bail that way. Pushing the bail over by hand avoids this. This pointer isn't an old wives' tale; I learned from a guide. My problem went away when I started hand-closing the bail.

This guys gets it.

Ronnie,

It is next to impossible to put line on any spinning reel without some line twist. Reason being is that even doing it properly like this man details, it still will have a certain amount of line twist. Google the word spinning reel and it says, "A reel that twists your line all to heck"

Here is why: The diameter of the new spool of line you are pulling from is much larger than the spool diameter of the reel, about double in fact. So everyone gets it that the line is twisting going onto the reel. The line is also twisting coming off the new spool but Half as much due to the size of the new spool being larger. Capiche?

One of my buddies that is a shaky head, drop shot guru does this every time he puts new line on his spinning reels. He uses Invisx 10# normally.

He carefully winds the new line onto his reel making sure it comes off the new spool the opposite that it is going onto the reel. Once he gets the reel full to his liking he then ties off a ball bearing swivel to a fence at his home. He ties the new line to it and opens the bail. He backs off until every foot of line is off the reel. Then he gently stretches it allowing all twist to leave the line.

After this he sprays KVD line conditioner to a rag and holds the line in front of the reel as he winds it back on. He walks slowly back toward his tie off point as he reels. About halfway back he stops and sprays more line conditioner on the rag. He keeps doing this until he gets to the fence.

Pain in the rear?? Absolutely! He also manually closes the bail every time.

Thanks Ken, the spool of line I used was 1/2 a spool but still has to come off the outside of the spool. Don't know if that helps or hurts. I also had flouro on the reel which I didn't know was wrong for a SR. I only use the SR for drop shoting and I bet I could do just as well with a bait caster. I don't need the hassle and reeling left handed is not my cup of tea either. Aggies getting there a$$ beat as I'm typing this. Geez.

You can catch just as many fish on a baitcaster with a dropshot rig. Lots of rod companies make dropshot baitcasting rods. Put a Chronarch 50 MG reel on there and you'll be set.

Some of the best drop-shotters on Fork use only baitcasters.

Leave the egg beater rigs for crappie.

That's all I needed to hear, I'm going with a bait caster. Now I have an extra crappie rig. Ken knows his stuff and shares. Thanks Granpa.

Looks like Grand Daddy will be the new name.

Learned something new today! Thanks Ken, I always use braid on my spinning reels 15,20 lb i do however not like
Original power pro I have had some bad issues with it tangling up. I really like the power pro supper slick