Be careful throwing Tungsten and glass together... Tungsten is much harder than lead and it will chip and/or break glass beads. Sharp glass and fishing line are not a good mix. Learned that the hard way.

Like it was said before: use a bobber stopper above your weight, check out some youtube videos to ensure your are rigging it right, long rod, swinging cast,

My : use a brass or plastic bead if your are throwing tungsten (glass is fine with lead), I prefer a flouro main line to a flouro of lesser poundage behind the leader as to not loose a $10 weight (braid is a good choice also but it is much louder than flouro in the water, flouro will get you more bites), and most importantly is to use a side sweeping hookset (setting the hook up by your head will just raise the weight and wont move the hook forward to set the hook, a side sweeping hookset will keep the weight on the bottom and move the hook forward to set the hook)

It takes practice so stick with it and find out what works for you. It's a powerful tool if you learn to make it work for you.

I use 3/4 to 1 ounce bullet weights. My preference is the brass with a rattle built in but haven't used them lately. I like brass because it isn't expensive and gets a good clicking sound with a bead but I'll throw a lead weight too. I don't use any stoppers. To me it almost defeats the purpose of using a carolina rig. I like the fish to have a free line to pull and not feel the weight.

While we're on the subject, I haven't been fishing a c-rig long but am pretty surprised at the immediate success. However, I've always used flouro line with a mono leader. The mono leader holds up well and delivers a good set, but the flouro line is killing me. I'm always re-rigging. Do you guys deal with the same thing or should I use a different line all together? Thoughts?

I use braid mainline and flouro leader

I fish a C rig from 6" to 30 feet. I use a 7'3" MH rod and choose reels that allow long casts. My choice for main line in Power Pro 50 lb with a leader of CLEAR Big Game in 20 to 35 lb test. In very clear water I'll drop 10 lbs test. A 1 oz dark colored weight and swivel. No beads etc. The secret to long casts is varying the leader length. I use a 5-6' leader for flukes etc. For large baits like big worms and mag flukes shorten the leader to 4' or so. Use the longest leader that you can cast. Drag it SLOWLY for 6"- 12 ", stop and feel for movement on a slightly tight line. Repeat till you are vertical. Bites will be movement OR a feeling that the line in cut. Bites like a Texas rig will be something pecking the weight. That's why I use a dark weight.
This setup works. I have made believes out of many partners.

What kind of braid do you use. I tried braid for awhile but on a bad cast it would snap so I went with CXX

Power pro 50#

Pegging the weight defeats the propose of a c-rig so do the pre-rigged c-rig you can buy. If you're going to peg a light c-rig just use a split shot. As for casting a c-rig, a side arm cast and the right equipment will stop the bait from out running the weight.

I don't peg my weights, I put a bobber stopper about 6"-1' above the weight to still allow some slide, just not too much slide.

This, I'm near 70 so its easy to call me old school but the original purpose of the crig is to allow you to feel the bottom and of course stop the retrieve when you feel it come off a rock etc. And most important is to allow the fish to pick up the bait and not feel the 3/4 to 1 oz weight because the line can slide through the weight. I only tie the original crig with bead and clacker but no stoppers.

I use 20# Invizx as my main line and a 15# Invizx leader. Unless you are using a floating bait the sink rate difference between a fluorocarbon leader and a mono leader really doesn't matter much. Your bait will not "float" just because you are using a mono leader.I like using either a lead weight and glass bead or brass n glass, as it is called (found at Star Mart near lake Fork). At Fork you will get more bites using the fluoro as a main line vs. using braid. That is a proven fact, not my opinion. I do not use tungsten weights for C-rigging because #1 they are just too expensive and I don't want to feel "everything" down there. With the heavy lead or brass sinker I can feel a soft bottom vs hard and it is easy to feel timber down there. The main thing I want to feel is a bite and for me the tungsten was just too sensitive and I couldn't tell if it was a light bite or something else.
I use a Dobyns Extreme 784 with a Lews Super Duty reel. I fish a C-rig a lot. Stick with it because it works well in all depths of water.

I use a 6ft Ugly Stick,,,,,,older model. 1/2 ounce -- 1ounce weight and I put a clam weight 8 inches above the weight so the weight stays down the line when I cast. I also just use a clam weight at whatever length I want the bait away from the weight. ususally 18 inches. The fish can pick up the bait and move it 8 inches without feeling the weight and I can immediately feel the fish pick it up. BAM !!!! This rod will absolutely set the hook on any fish and I use only 20# Suffix.

Power Pro 50 lb

Me too! Learned it while bed fishing. Using a T-tig with tungsten and glass bead. Loud as heck but set the hook and my line broke like it was cut. Rigged back up same way and pitched it back at the fish. Second time got the fish but as I unhooked the fish noticed my glass bead was broken in half. Then it dawned on me what happened a few mins before.