You might check the Sonic Hub and LSS-1 to see where their yellow wires on the power cable go. Some riggers who don't want to be bothered connect them to 12V along with the red wire. This will mean those modules could be burning power all day long whether you are using them or not (which I don't like) unless each is wired through a switch. I like the independent control I get from having two switches. That way, I can use the switches to only burn power on what I am actively using.

I don't run the 12V for the red wire through a switch. I keep the 12V connected directly to the modules for best power delivery. Instead, I control them being on/off by running the yellow wire from the console HDS through switches, than then to the yellow wire for each of the accessory modules. I understand that when the LSS is off, the units aren't Ethernet networked. But, as soon as I turn on the LSS again, they'll share any new waypoints.

Thanks. I will look at that. I do know the I have to turn on the master switch at the console for any of it to work. BTW, this boat is a Tracker Avalanche 18 DC and I will assume all the rigging was done by BassPro.

Rigged by a dealership could be a bad thing. If you have issues check back in before you start cussing the graphs. Sometimes those fools put too much on too little of a circuit and strange things start happening to the graphs.

At least they didn't have the headless modules powered 24/7. As Grout-scout said, check in if you have odd behavior. Some brands do utilize a dedicated power switch for the Sonic Hub. It sounds like you don't have one. I don't usually want audio on the boat so I like being able to know it's not drawing so much as a milliamp.

OK, I did find a brand new rocker switch in a package that has never been opened. Could be the previous owner was intending to isolate the sonic hub? I have checked out the graphs on the water when I lake tested the boat before buying it and the lake maps, sonar and side scan seemed to work perfect with great resolution but I didn't go thru all the options.
One other thing. Can I put dielectric grease on all the cable connectors/connections to prevent corrosion or will this mess things up?

Also found another Lowrance LMS-334c iGPS system in the boxes with cables. Any ideas on what this thing might be worth? Looks like it is an older discontinued model.

Well, he was a dedicated Lowrance user. You might hook the lms to make sure it still works, prob does but still verify. It has the same power cables. You'll just have to look on ebay at what they are selling for.

As far as the sonic hub, just make sure that the sound turns off when the graphs turn off. Seems that some don't like to read the directions when installing things.

I've always wondered who listened to music while fishing, I seem to enjoy the quietness personally.

I'm with you on the quiet. In all of my life I never had any audio in the boat until now, and what I have now just happened to be already installed. I've never once even taken any portable audio device fishing. I rarely use mine, and never when fishing. The sound reverberates through the hull hollows, and I'm of the belief it makes quite a racket in the water! I also don't want the noise distraction from concentrating on fishing.

If you don't plan to use the Sonic Hub a majority of the time, you might want to use that free switch, especially if there is a blank panel position available to easily install it.

As for the dielectric grease, put some on the battery terminals only. Do NOT put any grease on the connector pins for any of the electronics cables; it will cause debris attraction/accumulation. Those connections are gold-plated and have an o-ring seal, so grease is not needed. No other connections on the boat should need grease - other than the battery.

If the sonic hub is powered on all the time wouldn't it be warm to the touch? I am assuming there is quiet a bit of juice going thru this thing since it has external heat sink fins on top of it.

The power consumption of an audio receiver/amplifier is drastically reduced when it is quiescent (on, but not doing anything). That unit has a 15A fuse; it can apparently draw quite a bit if 4 speakers + a subwoofer were blaring at high volume. (It has 5 available speaker outputs.)

I would not be surprised if it draws less than 100 mA if on but not playing. This would never generate any notable heat you would feel. In fact, those ample cooling fins would likely make sure the temperature didn't rise. Play it loudly for a while, and you'll probably be able to feel heat on the fins, but not while its quiet. You did confirm that yours turns off with the power switch, so that's good. What would NOT be good would be if one didn't do that as it would draw some amount of power 24/7, affecting available battery energy if a charger wasn't connected.

When I use my boat, I don't want ANY unnecessary load stealing any battery reserve power. Many Sonic Hubs are wired to be on with the power switch, or on when a graph is turned on. I typically don't want the radio in either of those scenarios, so I have an additional switch that lets me choose when I want it on, and otherwise it stays off.

Does anyone have any good reviews of the new HOOK series? Does anyone know which versions connect with you phone (HDI, TI, HOOK)? Also, do ya'll know if HOOK has the ability to have side scan hooked up to it if I wanted down the road?

I need some help with structurescan on my new elite ti 7. First lowrance included the wrong mount for my totalscan transducer. I broke screws off in the transducer so they sent me a new transducer and mount no questions asked which was awesome but took a couple of weeks.

Now I can't get the structurescan to work properly. It just shows a thin line on side and maybe 2/3 of the screen black on down. I've tried the recommended 800 Khz and varied the range. I have a boat with sponsons so I thought maybe they were causing an issue so I lowered the transducer so the top of the transducer is about even with the bottom of the hull. I've tried both totalscan transducers and I tried holding one out perpendicular to the side of the boat. I still get the same thin line to the side, by the tunnel, or just hanging out plugged into the unit. Now Lowrance wants me to send in my head unit on my dime and wait for it to be evaluated. Before I do that I'd like some more opinions on if it's the head unit. I hate to pay for shipping and wait another 2 weeks. Here are some pictures showing how it's mounted and what I've described.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskuJ2cjx

Please reply or PM if you have any thoughts. Thanks.

Klockness, my thought is to try a hard reset. Then mail it back to Lowrance or take it back to where you bought it from.

You did an excellent job of documenting your issue for us to review. Nothing is coming to mind to offer other than agreeing with grout-scout that you should try a hard reset on the unit. If you bought it over the counter recently, I'd put some hard pressure there (for faster resolution) and if that fails to work out, send it back to Lowrance. While they did ask you to ship it on your dime, they gave you a replacement transducer when you broke the screws, right? I think you'd still be ahead in the total deal.