That's a good thought, because running two 5 meter strips is going to need to be powered at both ends also because the dimming situation. Appreciate the input! Looks like I still have more research to do...

Also, if you don't mind sharing...what species fish do you usually catch while using the lights? Crappie?

I'm going to be using mine off the banks since I don't have a boat. Basically tossing them out in the water so I'm sure they will just lay down on the bottom and not hang upright like if they were suspended. I am using 40 ft of power cord for them so I can hang them from bridges if neccessary too.

I've caught a bit of everything using them. Mostly use them to catch sand bass and hybrids on Tawakoni, but quite a few crappie too. You really never know what is going to swim through and bend a rod. It's really fun to have 3-4 lights down, 4-6 rods out, and hook a nice hybrid. Chaos ensues! Usually followed by re-tying several rigs.

Here's my boat lit up too. Using submersibles with the boat lights I can black out my fish finder with bait from top to bottom in 30' of water.

WOW! Nice rig! That took some hard work.

I hear you about having to re-tie several lines. With that many poles down they sometimes hit in 3's and then it's lines tangled everywhere. Good to know the lights will attract sandbass and hybrid though, or at least the baitball will. They are fun fish to land!

Thanks for your help!

5630 strands just arrived! I don't think they look much brighter than the 5050's...hmmm.


(5630's on top, 5050's below)

Maybe once wrapped around the inside pvc we'll see a difference? Good thing forecast calls for rain next 4 days, it'll give me something to do and time for glue to cure!

These strands are definitely much more waterproof than the 5050's I previously ordered...



Heavy half moon clear rubber lining on the outside with the 5630's inbedded...



Look very durable and waterproof, but not much "brighter", maybe because the waterproof lining? We'll soon find out!

On a side note: I do know now why some companies charge $200-300 dollars for these type lights...It takes a bunch of time and does make your fingers hurt from all the tedious repetitive wrapping and pulling to get the strands tight, but I just don't want to pay the money for something I can probably do myself....

Alright, 4ft light almost complete except for additional time for glue curing and a few details that might be needed like the addition of counterweights, ect. Anyways, here's an update on the progress...


Here you can see the top end pvc cap. I had to use a coupler and then an inside end screw top because for some reason my Home Depot didn't have normal cap ends in the CFL tube size, so I improvised what would work. Sealant is inside pvc coupler and beaded on around CFL/pvc outside joint for waterproofing. Also around pvc coupler and screw in end for waterproofing as well.


Here is the end from a deeper angle to show the 18 gauge power wire running through the gland to power the light and keep water from leaking in. I'll probably bury the gland in sealant as well just to guarantee waterproofing and add more strength when dropping/pulling up the light to the water. The pvc end was drilled 3/4 inch to seat the gland into the end piece.


This is the bottom pvc end, same as the top but no gland. I can seat additional weight into the end cap if needed to help it sink, then bury it in sealant as well to stay if neccesary. Sealed inside, outside and beaded where it meets the CFL tube as well.


And the finished product! Pretty bright, really clear and doesn't seem to get as hot as my 2ft 5050 led stick at the top of this post.

And what I'm most fond of, is my fabricated battery housing. Like $10 from Walmart with a few modifications...

Normal housing with jumper cable type small clamps on power posts on the inside, 18 gauge wire to 10A fuse and then run through the side of cover by way of waterproof gland. Quick connects for positive/negative and toggle switch built in also.

All in all, a pretty easy little project. Power source (battery, cover, toggle switch, monkey clamps, and wire) might run you about $100, but designed for easy application to power other things if neccesary as well. 4ft light (LEDs, 3/4 inch pvc inside, CFL protector tube, pvc ends, cable glands, sealant) might run you $50. Not too bad for a power source that can be used for multiple applications and a 4ft submersible led light.

If you are thinking of trying this out, I say go for it. Build was of medium difficulty due to fabrication (drilling) of pvc ends and assembly, which requires you to have it planned out at least 4 steps ahead before final assembly (sealing and running power through cable glands). If you need any help or questions if you are interested in trying this, give me a hollar and I'll do my best to try and help any way I can. Thanks!

Looks great! Much more professional looking than the one that I built.

Thanks! Not really that tough with proper tools and time. Definitely have to plan several steps ahead though, or you could easily get yourself in a postion where you glued the wrong part at the wrong time.

Which is better--float or weight for sinking ?

You want it to sink, or suspend it in the water a few feet down to create a baitball.

https://youtu.be/30uppH3nrec

The 4ft green light was a success, after just an hour I had a small amount of bait circling it from minnows to small shad. You can actually see them attacking the light. Sealed and waterproof, but had to tie a 5lb rock onto the bottom of light to get it to sink. Very bouyant!

https://youtu.be/GqkAjkO_ECI

On a side note, the plastic CFL protector tube used on the outside did have some inverse pressure on it after several hours of being submerged (I don't know what the word is, maybe concave? But it did start to fold in on itself slightly, mostly around the middle, from the water pressure on the outside of it and the heat from the lights softening the tube a little). Maybe some sort of plastic or metal (keyring type) sustainer rings mounted on the insides would help? I think because of the length being so long (4ft), if there was a little inside support towards the middle holding the outside then that would drastically help the outside from trying to fold in on itself.

Just a thought. Shouldn't be a problem with 2ft lights. Too short.

Okay, 2ft light with clear PVC cover was a dud. Worked fine, is waterproof, but the blue tinting and thickness of the PVC turned the light WORTHLESS for attracting fish. It was either the blue tinting or how dim the pvc made the light trying to get through, but after several hours it only attracted a few water bugs and 1 minnow. Going to have to disassemble it (probably by breaking the outer covering) and try another clear CFL protective tube for the outer shell. They work on my other 4ft light, so a 2ft model should at least do something once replaced. Trial and error...

Wrap some 2' thick walled PVC w/ your lights. Glue and clamp the ends of the strips until the glue cures. Then spray the entire light w/ several coats of clear Flex Seal. The light will sink w/ much less weight and will hold up just fine. I have been using mine for several years w/o any issues.

If you are wrapping your LED's around an internal PVC core, then fill the core with sand to make it sink. Just that amount overcomes the buoyancy of my lights and they sink without the need for external weighting. Depending on mow much air/void you have in your lights, results may vary.

That's also why ready made custom lights cost what they do, R&D takes time and money.