If ur snapping 20lb floro on hook sets its probabaly ur knot breaking. 20lb invisix tied with a double uni or double Sam Diego jam will be so hard to break u will need to wrap it around ur trolling motor

Look up Mark Pack's video on the double San Diego jam knot. Using it will eliminate the problem of breaking off on the hook-set.

John,

I feel your pain. I believe everyone has had some "growing pains" with Fluoro at one time or another. For me, I have found that my rod MUST have a little "tip" at the end for fluoro to work its best. I repeatedly snapped 15-20 lb fluoro on hook sets when I first started using it. Its not the line, it is the rod you are using. For me, I will not use anything less than 20 lb fluoro with a HEAVY ACTION ROD, and that is pushing it, especially when flipping and in close quarters. For 12-17 lb Fluoro, to me, there must be some forgiveness in the tip or heartbreak is imminent. I use either the San Diego Jam or Fishin Fool knot and have never had issues with knot failure. I do not recommend using the Palomar knot for fluoro. These are just my experiences over the past 3 to 4 years and line failure has become non existent (at least for now!)

Look up Mark Pack's video on the double San Diego jam knot. Using it will eliminate the problem of breaking off on the hook-set.

It's not because of your hook set its your knots or lack of retying when necessary

I bend trokar flipping hooks with flouro and don't break on hooks set.

Do you tie the Palomar? If so it is your knot. I used to have the same issue. Fluorocarbon weakens when it tightens itself to much. Youtube Shaw Grigsby fluorocarbon knot. I don't remember what the knot is called (if anything), but I can tell you I do not break my knot anymore. it keeps the fluorocarbon from cinching down on itself to much.

Fluorocarbon is a PTFE (Teflon) material. The misconception is that it doesn't stretch as much as monofilament. This is only partially true.

1. It sees plastic strain (permanent stretch) far before its ultimate break strength. So, after it stretches once, it kind of stays that way afterwards. This helps make it feel like it has less stretch, because after it has yielded, it doesn't move very much when loaded up again.
2. It is more dense and rigid than mono, transmitting vibrations much better. Braid is not dense or rigid, thus slack braid makes bites almost imperceptible. The line must be tight to really feel anything with braid.

Having said that, PTFE is not nearly as flexible as mono. When you set the hook on a weightless worm rig, where you might create a small loop in the loose spool and where the line was pulled tight, casting that rig again might create a mild bird's nest that clears, but slaps the loop against the spool as it rotates. This heats that section up, and it is now compromised. That section will fail, and typically on a hook set, or even a cast. Bird's nests that kink the line will also create a similar situation where a sharp bend compromises the line's integrity. It will fail there as well. In either case, it really only takes one event to create the problem. This is the reason I don't use fluorocarbon at all anymore. Loved the sensitivity and sometimes the sinking as well, but mono for me on all but a couple specific applications where I will use braid.

Wrong, I know the difference in knot breaks and line breaks!