I guess the best way to describe it is that it peels off a little.

All the little gray specks are paint peeling off. A little hard to see, but it's what I go.

When spraying scales you need low paint flow and low air pressure, and spray multiple light coats so you don't flood the mesh and push paint in under the scale fabric creating a mess. Keep the airbrush back off the lure, not too close in. When the paint is tacky but not dry remove the mesh by carefully taking off the clips and spreading the mesh 1/2 way up the lure sides then lifting it off the lure.... peeling it off the top half of the lure from one end of the lure to the other. It�s important to have steady hands in this step and not drag the fabric over the lure surface as you peel it off. Otherwise, you might smear your scale pattern. If you leave the mesh fabric on the lure till it is completely dry, it tends to leave flaky raised edges in the pattern which are visible in the following coats. By taking the fabric mesh off while the paint is tacky you get clean, rounded edges to the scale pattern which finish out nicely. Having nice flat rounded edges is important when using a mesh to create the scale effect on the sides and back. Those flaky raised edges pickup and highlight the colors on the sides and back so that it "looks a little off". Hope this helps

boisarc is absolutely right. too heavy a spray and letting the paint dry completely will cause flaking. here's a couple more thoughts. when you heat set paint it sometimes reacts like anything else that gets heated...it softens. your scale mesh may be sticking to little softer paint. i generally let my base coat cool down for a few minutes before i apply the mask. i don't ever let it dry completely before i remove the mask.
make sure your scale mask is pulled tight. if it's the least bit loose you'll get paint under it and that will cause problems.
sometimes over reducing your paint can be an issue. if it's too thin it can creep under the mask or pool at the edges of the scales.
low flow and air pressure, tight mask, multiple very light coats, care when removing the mask. and practice!

Agree with what has been said so far only thing I do differently is I heat the bait and the scale mask a little before I spray the paint. It will almost vacuum form the scale mask to the bait, plus also the first coat of scale will dry faster. That is how I do them not sure it's the best way though.

Thanks for the tips.

Also for shad dots or ears, get you a few different size hole punches from hobby lobby, punch holes in card stock. For the ear just tape off half of the hole. Hope this helps some of you guys.

Credit for this one goes to Basscat Dad.
The bottle has an applicator tip that's a hollow needle. It allows precise application of the liquid. Apply a small amount exactly where you want it or a more generous amount in an area and use a round detail brush to spread a thin coat over the area. The angled tip on the handle end of the brush helps apply the liquid also. The stuff dries to a skin pretty fast so work quickly. Washes off the brush with warm water...just don't let it dry out too much. When you're done painting just peel it back gently with your finger. Great for protecting from over-spray and making precise patterns.

been experimenting with chrome paint for a couple weeks and have learned a few things. i tried a few different brands and the dupli-color perfect match universal chrome seems to work the best. the chrome has a a finish that makes getting acrylic paint (createx, folkart, etc) to stick a problem. tried using a light coat of krylon crystal clear acrylic over the chrome to get a surface that the acrylic would bond to but it killed the finish. ended up with a dull gray look instead of the shiny chrome.
if you're looking for a straight chrome finish for a simple paint schedule it looks great but not sure how devcon or one of the dips may affect the chrome. i'm going to try some devcon on it and see what happens.
and i tried a 400 grit sand paper to lightly scuff the surface. total fail.
this is a finished lure with the chrome. it was a major pita to get this done. devcon clear coat

here are two with just chrome and simple shading around the eyes

converting a 2.5 with rattles and weight transfer to a "one knocker". pretty easy to do. use a 1/8" drill bit and drill a hole at the back of one of the eye sockets. shake the rattles out, there's usually three. close the hole with glue or epoxy. you're left with the two big weights that are the weight transfer and you have a new sound for your 2.5.
actually you don't have to close the hole. after you put the eye in and clear coat the bait the hole will be sealed up.

Great tip bcd, I'll have to try that out. Might give it a shoot on one of my scrapped 2.5's first to make sure I don't damage a good blank.

Good one BC, thanks for sharing.

Need something to hold your blanks while you paint them?? Try this:



cut off a few wooden meat skewers and attach alligator clips to one end
use a piece of 1x6 pine for a base
drill holes on a center line just a bit larger than the skewers
insert and remove the skewers as needed


Using both hands to spray?? Use metal clamps to hold the skewers. With a little practice you can use the clamp to hold a blank securely at odd angles while using both hands to spray.

bois. where did you get the alligator clamps?

Home Depot or Lowe's....can't remember 4 sure...