Last year there was a post on how to build a bait tank out of a plastic barrel for shad. I had it saved but can't seem to find it now that I have time to build. Does anyone have a diagram or plans for one and what type of filter material to use? Any help would be great! Just had surgery and off for the next 6 weeks and getting bored so I need to find something to do while lakes are flooded. The orginal post was at this addy: http://www.texasfishingforum.com/.ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=014081#000000
Thanks

Let's see if this works, I had it saved :

Cattle:
I read your post, but I was not sure what you were asking. Are you wanting to build a cheap bait tank or cheap filtration/pump system or both? And I was not sure what is cheap. You can build a tank with aeration for about $100. Less if you already have a pump, tank, etc.
TANK:
Depending on the size of you boat, I would suggest a 20 or 30 gallon tank. I have a 17' Tracker and have both and they both fit. However, 20 gallons of water is 160 lbs and 30 is 240 lbs. You need to consider this when you have your tank and any friends fishing with you. It can add up quick and overload your boat.

I make 20 gallon tanks out of 35 gallon plastic barrels and 30 gallon tanks out of 55 gallon plastic barrels ($15 - $20). I prefer white because they will not absorb heat from the sun beating down on them. Heat kills shad.

I cut the barrels down to about 25 and 35 gallons respectively. Using 3/4" plywood ($5 - $10), cut a round piece to fit the barrel opening. Cut a door in the top (like the mouth of that mean little green smily face on the TFF posts ) Cutting about 2" from the edge across the center line of the circle to 2" from the opposite edge. Then cut the round part of the mouth around the perimeter of the circle. I personally use the cutout half-moon for my door, but others cut a door that is larger than the hole from another piece of plywood and hinge it on top of the opening. Mine is flush with the door closed and theirs is not; however, I have to put a support to keep the door from swinging down inside the tank. Paint all of the wood using several coats of white exterior paint. Install the door with galvanized hinges and latch (tractor supply - $8).

Install the top on the barrel. The top should slip inside the barrel opening. With the top inserted and flush with the barrel opening, drill and screw the barrel to the wood top using SS screws and flat washers. I space them about 4 to 6" apart. Caulk the perimeter where the wood meets the barrel to keep water from splashing up through the opening.

To mount a Keepalive pump in the bottom, you will need to by a small piece of plexiglass. Cut about a 6 to 8" circle. Using plastic epoxy, epoxy the plexiglass circle in the bottom of the tank.

AERATION:
I have fought this particular issue for several years now, and this is my solution.
I personally think aeration is more important than filtration. I have had great filtration systems and the shad sufficated from lack of air. I have had great aeration with shad [censored] and scales floating all inside the barrel and the shad do well. So based on that, here is my suggestion. If you have a rule 500 pump, buy a Keepalive retrofit kit for it ($35). If you do not, buy you a KA460 ($70). Buy the large filter for it ($12). The keepalive pump will then suction cup to the plexglass ih your tank. Drill a hole in the top for your pump wires and air tubing and you are done.

If you want more filtration, here is what you can do. Do not buy the large keepalive foam filter. Instead of mounting your keepalive pump to the plexiglass, you will mount the pump inside a 4" sewer pipe. Cut a 4" hole toward the back of the wood top so the sewer pipe will fit. Run the pipe down through the hole until it touches the bottom of the tank. Cut the sewer pipe off and install a 4" cleanout with screw-in plug on the pipe. You will unscrew the plug and insert your filter media in this opening.

Pull out the pipe. The keepalive should just fit in the other end of the pipe opening. Drill a hole for the pump discharge and wedge the pump assembly into the opening. Wedging works, but you can also mount the pump to a 4" knockout and screw it into the bottom also. Just above the mounted pump, drill 4 holes 90 degrees apart around the pipe. Install 4
SS screws to form an X inside the pipe. These screws support the polyfil or aquarium filters. About 4" - 8" above the screws, drill 1/2" or 3/4" holes around the sewer pipe. This is where the water is drawn in through the filter then through the pump. The water in the tank has to be above these holes during operation. The size of the holes must be smaller than the bait that you expect to keep in the tank.

These homemade tanks are very good and will keep the bait alive. It is a little work, but they are a higher quality than some bought tanks and 3 or $400 dollars cheaper than the high quality tanks. The high quality tanks are great, but you do not have to spend that much to keep bait alive.

I hope this helps. Email me if you have any questions or need further help.

Pictures:



Well, I see it deleted the pics, but this is what I remember, or had saved.
DG

I have used tanks since the fist frisky filter came out in 86.I know exactly what you need .get in touch .I will be at Bass Pro to night (thurs.)6-8pmin the fishing dept.Or contact me by e-mail
Doug

I have built one tank but filter stops up really quick, would like to modify so I have more surface area on filter but can't find any pics of any. I thought about cutting off pipe and attaching a square plastic tub avout 9 inch by maybe 6 inches in place of pipe with slits, then put slits in tub. Here are some pics of first try.










Filter material is from a garden pond filter system, and I still need to wrap tank in insulation for summer heat.


This is from first trip with tank!

dgruff, I am going to make one of these. this sounds like a great homemade tank. if you have pics could you please, please email them to me. email them to offshor@tx.rr.com.

and btw , where do you buy the white plastic barrels from?

i would like to ask why wasnt recirculation (fresh water from the lake) a feature of your scenario here? Is that overkill or what?

Recirculation can become a problem in the heat as surface temps usually are to high this time of year. Keeping tank water temps less than 80 degrees and preferably 70-75 degrees is optimal. Filling tank with cool water and treating it is better for our lakes. Saltwater is different. Go with the biggest tank that will work in your boat. 40-50 gal is good and a 20 gal is too small. When the Texas heat kicks in you will need both filtration and aeration.

The pics I posted were from Dgruff, the post with info on how to build. This tank works well with keepalive pump but I think it needs a little bigger filter area. My ideal of a good shad tank would be filtration 1st and aeration 2nd. It seems the first 30 mins is hardest on filter because of slim and scales, after that not to bad. You can find barrel from soap disturber's or chemical place just make sure of it's contents.

After a lot of thinking about filter mods, I have come up with this. It increases the area of filter and should be a lot better. Here are some pics of mod. I left filter at bottom of screen for a place for filter to tighten down on. I built a screen and epoxied it to a pvc coller on to lid. I then bought a foam filter and cut to fit then glued it to itself. Filter can be slid off if need for cleaning. I will let everyone know how it works when I get back on lake.

bookmarked

For filltering go to Lowes buy the house water filter that has the outside canister dim. of about 12" long and 4" across. Works great. If the shad are really dropping scales may have to change filter 1x during the day. Good luck

I might add that I also wrapped tank in the silver air bubble insulation and wrapped white tape around it. It says it is equal to 3 to 6 inches of regular insulation and it wont hold water plus a lot thiner.