Your on the internet, why cant you search yourself?

https://drewcraft.com/[/quote]
Why does “abrasive” have to be your MO? ChampionDon said “If you have any questions just let me know”. I have a question. “How much were his 3x100ah batteries?” The drewcraft.com website states “call for pricing”. [/quote]


Why not call him then or email him or pm him..... Its not that complicated. How lazy can you be? There are lots of links in this thread with prices. There are a good 20 different batteries on amazon w prices.


If abrasive = captain obvious that is me guilty as charged.


the price is on the website 999. ea

https://drewcraft.com/product/100ah-12v-ionic-lithium-battery/

CALL for discount.

I could look and tell you what he quoted me on 100A and 50A's but it was a few months ago.

The price was $1650.00 delivered but that price might have changed?

It absolutely in the best interest of the battery service life to charge after EVERY use, whether the charge level is 30% or 90%. I have no clue where you get the "They aren't supposed to be charged after every use" thing - Lithium doesn't develop a memory like Ni-cad cells did 30 years ago. You will be best served if you charge any battery technology we use in fishing after every use. Let that charge indicator on the charger tell you when the battery is happy - right after every trip, not the night before you go out again. Just because you "can" get 2 days of use out of a set of batteries doesn't mean it's better to not charge them when you have the chance.

Really huh, guess these guys don’t understand their specialty. There is even a chart if you don’t want to read it. I guess you’ll try to say “charge them, but don’t fully charge them”... as if any charger will stop before they are 100%. If you don’t want to believe that link, there’s plenty more on the web. Now I know that some of you guys have more money than others and spending $1300 on a battery is nothing for you; but I think I’ll follow the “recommend” guidelines to make my purchase last as long as possible. But in the event, you just want to throw away some money, buy me one and I’ll charge it however you tell me to.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/electrek.co/2018/05/04/are-you-killing-your-lithium-batteries/amp/







Might as well add another one for you, seems it’s too hard to use google.

You realize a cycle is full discharge and full re charge, I have only ever killed my batteries once (full discharge) to see how long it really was going to take etc. So my batteries have had many partial cycles which would be the case for everyone running them.

Relion and most others say 5000 plus cycles..... That is more than enough for my lifetime even if EVERY time I fish was a full cycle (full discharge, recharge). Fishing 100 days a year equals 50 years.....



Your way over complicating something that is not complicated. Charge and store them however you want and they will still last 14.75 years if you fish EVERY SINGLE DAY to full discharge and recharge.

The lithiums are cheaper now than the last group 31 agm optima batteries I bought.

These on ebay are Dirt CHEAP

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOBattery-12V-24V-36V-80AH-LiFePO4-Deep-Cycle-Battery-for-Trolling-Motor/284142963189?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3De0ae1def7aa64725b3363ec7f885ea62%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D184166142361%26itm%3D284142963189%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A1cb13b91-5d86-11eb-bf10-a67b300126cd%7Cparentrq%3A2f9dee391770a77dc9f79568ff896b56%7Ciid%3A1

100ah 499
80ah 399
50ah 275

Jeff, you've hit the nail on the head as to the definition of the "charge cycle". It's about the "swing" in charge level, NOT the peak charge percentage. If your normal use takes your batteries from 100% to 75% in a day, then you recharge, that is far superior for service life than if they go from 100% to 25% (a 75% swing) because you didn't recharge between two days of fishing.

I'll admit, I haven't recently visited some of the links posted in this thread lately, and have never visited some of them. I'm sure there's some good info, and I'm sure there's some not so good info. There's also the range in ability to judge what you find, and make technical sense of it; some are more skilled at this than others. This isn't meant to be a slam on anyone - it's like a known fact that doctors and pro baseball players don't make good pilots. You're good at your own specialty more so than something outside your purview. A great outboard mechanic isn't always a great brain surgeon & vice versa.

Everyone is free to do as they wish with their own batteries and I won't lose sleep over it. But, I'm probably not at a disadvantage in making my own conclusions on things electrical, given my 40 year career as a formally trained electrical engineer. It hasn't steered me wrong yet.

Lol, I’ll stick with the advice of the battery manufacturers and their advice is to “not top off the battery” after every use, if it’s not low. I know Jeff has more fishing time than many of us, but not everyone gets to fish everyday and therefore their batteries would sit charged for days or weeks, which is not recommended.


Jeff, I know many of the TM lifepo4’s are cheap now, but my interest is only in the crankers. They are $1k to $1300, which is a lot of money to many of us and then add in the additional Charger cost. It’s hard to justify the cost, if the battery will only last 3-5 years. Hopefully with proper maintenance they will really last 10+, but no telling what better battery will be out by then.

Does anyone actually know(facts) that the purpose built (high cranking amp) lithium cranking batteries actually last as long as the purpose built “deep cycle” trolling motor type lithium’s?

The crankers are a different breed, a TM lithium type won’t start a motor like a cranker Lithium, they don’t have the power. Kind of a drawback for me and why I’ll keep running lead acid on my TM. I can’t think of the name of it, but I have a switch that lets you change to your TM batteries in the event that your cranker dies. With 100% lithiums, that switch is worthless. One could argue that you can’t make a lithium cranker die though.


No proof that any of them will last, longevity wise and some manufacturers don’t want lithium batts used with their motors; but guys are doing it anyways.

Jeff is running a huge lithium and has multiple graphs, so he can tell us how much longer his lithium last over his old agm though throughout a day though. Have you ever been able to draw it all the way down?

Your jump switch will still work just fine. I put a light on my start lithium to get it almost dead went to the lake and fished until my graphs shut off, which was when the battery shut off to protect itself. I flipped my home made jump switch and waited about 1 minute, flipped it back off and my boat started fine. f you leave it on you could damage the lithium tm battery if its not a start battery.

I have a voltage gauge on my 36 and 12 side and the jump switch doesnt need to charge the lithium or you dont need to start from the tm battery you just need to turn the start battery back on, which hitting it w 12 volts does. my memory is bad but I believe it showed 11.2 after being turned back on and it started my 4 stroke mercury fine.

I posted a link to start batteries that are 799 in here already that is not 100-1300. https://www.monstermarinelithium.com/product-page/1300cca-100ah-cranking-lithium

AND you dont have to have a lithium charger I used my normal charger for the first year, the lithium one only charges faster.

A solution I'm pondering for "if/when I need it" is to continue to keep/run a honker AGM for the boat's main battery, but to segregate the bus feed to my electronics fuse panel. (I wired my boat's electronics this way to give the option.) That would let me easily add a 5th battery that would power electronic accessories only. That battery could small/light, such as a 50AH Lithium. If that 50AH battery ever did fail to last a full day, I could easily move the single bus wire feeding the dedicated electronics fuse panel over to the AGM for the remaining fishing time.

Only a engineer would come up with a solution for a problem that does not exist. Adding a 5th battery is stupid and not needed they sell batteries that will meet your needs.

If youve got any common sense at all youll be the first engineer Ive ever met with any.

How low can you go:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Renogy-12V-100AH-200AH-Rechargeable-Deep-Cycle-Hybrid-GEL-Battery-Solar-Marine/274398651684?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3Ded01a3f5c3424aaead670bc4be893e8a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D284142963189%26itm%3D274398651684%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DRenogy&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

100ah for $217.

THAT is not lithium.

I have Ionic’s..(125ah starter and 3x50ah TM ). I have this Ionic jumper connected to the 125ah. It’s use a Bluetooth app on my phone to turn it on and jump the starter should I ever need a jump. The jumper is a 5ah and it sole purpose is to jumpstart in an emergency.