What are you fellas using for weights to help your free floating juglines stay down a bit better is high wind situations?

Whatever is around the workshop. As long as it sinks, I can make a jug weight from it. Large washers and nuts are my two favorites. I can add/remove as needed with bailing wire clipped to a large swivel.

Back in the day I used to mix up some concrete (you can now buy a small bag for a few bucks at Lowes or HD) and pour them into styrofoam coffee cups then insert a galvanized fence staple into the wet concrete. I would bend the ends of the staple to keep it from pulling out. Then peel off the styrofoam a couple days later. Worked well and lasted years. Wheel weights work well when you're not in the wind and current.

I made some with little solo cups. mixed sack-crete and poured it in the cups. bent some heavy wire into a loop and put it down in the wet concrete to attach the line to. after they dried, they each weigh about a pound. they hold great in heavier wind and also are a little harder for the fish to drag all over the lake. I've been nothing but pleased with them so far other than they are kind of a pain to roll up and store in my jug buckets. fishing wise they are perfect though.

use the solo cups in high wind, but duck hunting decoys weights work well too in light wind, they can wrap around your jug, but can get spendy if you buy a bunch of them. good luck

Use 2" PVC pipe cut to whatever length you want for weight, and tape one end with duct tape or put a cap on it, and fill with the concrete and put wire loop to attach your line.
They will fit nicely into a bucket with the foam jugs.

I have some of all of the above. I also have a mold for 5oz bank sinkers whichis what I usually end up using. I tie a loop of trotline sting thru the eye of the weight then you can loop the string around your jug line and it works great.

I go to the dollar store or Wal-Mart, etc. & buy a multi-pak (be it 4 or 8) of tumblers (drinking glasses) made out of stiff, but flexible vinyl (not the stiff kind, as it will eventually break or crack). You want a little resiliency. And if way too thin, it won't hold up. Usually you will run into two main sizes. I utilize both.

Next, you get a 5 gallon bucket, small hand garden shovel (plastic, vinyl, or steel) for scooping, and a sharpshooter to stir the concrete. You can get any size of mix concrete or just mortar mix, depending on your taste, cost, or whatever.

A water hose, attached with a spray gun, and you are ready to go, except for one more item. OK, maybe a few more.

You need a loop to put in the top. I use either the stiff thick galvanized wire (1st choice) used on the chain link fences (around 1994 thru 2008), old galvanized wire handles (less the plastic roller handle) from 5 gallon buckets that have seen their day finally (2nd choice), or the galvanized zig-zag chain link fencing strips (most interlock & usually I have spare strips left over here & there) (3rd choice), and last (4th choice) is the thinner wire handles from the cheap 1 gallon thin pails (they seem to rust fairly fast though).

You will need either a good set of regular pliers (some have the wire cutting made in) or fencing pliers (what I use) to bend & cut your loop sections with & bend into shape. You can also use lineman pliers. With diagonal pliers, much tougher to cut with. You should be able to get fencing pliers from $5 to $12.

For your loops, figure in the length total, accounting for how much you want above the concrete line at top. And you want to make a "U" end on each side that goes into the concrete, as it works like an anchor & will not ever pull out.

Be sure as you pour the concrete in to leave a little lip around the tumbler available (open). The reason is you want to drill a small hole (1/8th of an inch or slightly bigger) out on the side from each of the 2 sides of the loop. Do this of course after the concrete dries. Get some size 36 or 24 trotline cord (3 strand twist is what I use). Figure the amount you need to interloop & tie with knots on each end (for securing) side to side looping around the metal loop. Why? Because eventually the concrete will separate from the tumbler. You don't want to fill our lakes, rivers, and streams with more plastic, do you?

The reason for keping the tumbler on, is 3-fold. One is that it protects your boat & other gear, as concrete is very abrasive. Number two, is that it absorbs impacts & assures your concrete weight to stay together almost forever (from chipping or breaking). What's number 3? Well, depending upon the bottom of where you are, sometimes you get into a nasty muck of stuff (mud) and when you raise or when you pull your lines, you want to wipe that off. Much easier with your hands wiping it off in the water of the vinyl, than rough concrete. Usually some stays in the pores of the concrete.

Another option is to use a 5 gallon bucket with a lid to "stack" your weights in, on the way out to setting them. If they will be out for awhile, you can leave buckets at camp. When time to pull lines, stack them back in (upright). Be sure to pull out after getting home to let them dry, as well as the bucket, before storing them. You might want to leave the lid slightly cracked open while storing at home. But if all is dry, they should be OK.

I also utilize size 36 green 3 strand twist for a 3 foot leader (double knot on each for securing). If you set jugs like me, most are set in known depths & I like the jug snug (1 gallon tea or bleach jug not rolling over on its side, if possible), you have to figure that into your total depth (length of the line) for that area.

I noted two sizes of tumblers. I am not sure of how many ounces are what these two hold, but you can see & feel the difference in size & weight. I use them both, as I run jugs & also trotlines.

In pre-planning my strategy, I try to use the smaller ones on the trotlines, and the larger ones on the juglines. Naturally, I want to slow the jug down from wandering too far, be it wind or fish. On my SW (Shallow Water) trotlines, I utilze a 36 hook mainline, with hooks as follows, plus loops for weights & water bottles (with just a tad bit of air to help stabilize the line). Attached to one end, first (outer) loop is for larger tumbler & my gear tag. This helps to lower the line faster or more so, to prevent props from cutting my line, as well as preventing you from having to retrieve cord off your prop.

Depending upon my area, I now utilize the 4 foot spread between leaders & loops (3 foot is the law on trotlines). So from that first (outer) loop with heavier tumbler & gear tag, I have 3 leaders (hook stagings), then a loop, 6 hooks, loop, 9 hooks, center loop, 9 hooks, loop, 6 hooks, loop, 3 hooks, and outer loop for larger tumbler weight & gear tag, then about 3 to 6 feet of cord before whatever I attached to. The smaller tumblers are used on all the other loops. I may or may not add the water/air bottle to loop between the 3 & 6 hooks area. Normally you are still trying to lower the line at that point (depending upon depth), so you may not want to raise the line any.

My DW (Deep Water) trotlines, also noted as my "Planter" trotlines, are either this 3/6/9/9/6/3 or just 9/9/9/9 but still 36 hooks total. But most of the time, the spread between leaders are 5 feet or 6 feet. Now, the "Planter" is designed to set anywhere on the lake, even in the middle of a river or out in the middle with a diagonal angle. The "Planter" utilizes a sort of levee or pulley similarity. And I created a "fixed" attachment with my two huge anchors (ranging 60 to 72 pound concrete in 3.5 gallon buckets utilizing a double loop (run as a +) & the bucket handle (so the plastic pail stays attached). If you can't handle hoisting that much weight, then Plan B allows two 2 gallon jugs, but that gets a little complicated & does not plant as well as the 3.5 gallon buckets do. I plan to share the designs of the "Planter" in my book. I initially designed it in the early to mid 1980s & even shared with a Game Warden to make sure it was legal. He said it was & sounded neat (as to its design).

I use the bar bell weights. I get mines at Wal Mart.
CAP Barbell 1" Standard Cast Iron Weight Plate:
Single: 1.25 lbs $1.50
2.5 lbs $2.53
5.0 lbs $6.00
7.5 lbs $8.00
Depending on what you want, these are great for the Jugs that I use.
The pool noodle with the rebar inside the noodle. They do not move
with these weights.