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Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Dale Griffin] #12092893 02/14/17 05:49 AM
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BASS GURU Offline
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Alberto Knot all the way. Tried the uni and FG. Good knots, but I like the Alberto better. The Alberto is super strong, never had a problem, and it is smaller. With a little practice you can tie it in 30 seconds. As has already been said, "I love the Alberto".

Moritz Chevrolet - 9101 Camp Bowie W Blvd, Fort Worth, TX - Monte Coon (817) 696-2003
Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Dale Griffin] #12092901 02/14/17 06:47 AM
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Clint H. Online Content
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I truly believe leader knots are destined to fail

Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Dale Griffin] #12092944 02/14/17 11:10 AM
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Jigfish Offline
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Use a double Uni knot and 6ft of line.


Thanks,

The weak call it obsession, the strong call it dedication!
Jigfish

Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Clint H.] #12093154 02/14/17 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted By: Clint H.
I truly believe leader knots are destined to fail


Never had a leader knot fail, I almost exclusively fish with braid to flouro....

Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Dale Griffin] #12093166 02/14/17 02:09 PM
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Can someone explain to me why people do this? To me it seems like it has triple the chance of knot failure (2 knots to join the line then your lure knot).


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Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Dale Griffin] #12093261 02/14/17 02:40 PM
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That Alberto knot is tough as nails, never had it fail. The issue I have is shocking the flourocarbon leader with the hook set. Even when I've tamed it down a bit I've broke the leader even with 15 lb Cxx

Last edited by paul_day1982; 02/14/17 02:41 PM.
Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: charlieecho] #12093301 02/14/17 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted By: charlieecho
Can someone explain to me why people do this? To me it seems like it has triple the chance of knot failure (2 knots to join the line then your lure knot).


Well for one I have had the same braid on my reels for 4 years now, in that time frame i may have used one 250 yard spool of line for leaders, that is a lot of money saved. The second thing is the the sensitivity you get with this combo, the third is you can use several different size lines on one set up, there are probably other benefits as well but these are the main ones that i feel are big benefits.


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Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Clint H.] #12093310 02/14/17 02:58 PM
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ezbassin Offline
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Originally Posted By: Clint H.
I truly believe leader knots are destined to fail


Your beliefs are wrong. If you tie leader knots correctly they will work just fine, but as with any knot, if you DO NOT tie it correctly, it will fail. Learn to tie knots correctly and you will not have problems. If you can't learn to tie knots correctly then maybe you need to take up bowling instead.

Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: paul_day1982] #12093318 02/14/17 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted By: paul_day1982
That Alberto knot is tough as nails, never had it fail. The issue I have is shocking the flourocarbon leader with the hook set. Even when I've tamed it down a bit I've broke the leader even with 15 lb Cxx


You may need a softer action rod if you are breaking 15# CXX. That line is tuff as nails.

Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Blake_Mooty14] #12093327 02/14/17 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted By: Blake_Mooty14
FG knot for sure its small diameter and I have never had a problem with it going through the guides.


Try tying that FG knot on the water in a 15 mph wind. Hope you have spot lock on your trolling motor or talons or power poles and are sitting in shallow water.

The Alberto knot has NEVER failed me, it is small and easy to tie and can be easily done on the water if needed.

Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Dale Griffin] #12093331 02/14/17 03:04 PM
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My main reason for giving it a shot is increased hookset in deep water. Fishing thick brush along with seeing if the sensitivity is better.



Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: charlieecho] #12093354 02/14/17 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted By: charlieecho
Can someone explain to me why people do this? To me it seems like it has triple the chance of knot failure (2 knots to join the line then your lure knot).


I can't stand the line curl I get when using spinning equipment and a non braided line so I will use 20# test braid as my main line and then I tie on a leader with the Alberto knot. The Alberto knot is a strong, small knot that will not break before the leader line does if it is tied correctly. Having a leader tied on rather than tying directly to your bait will get you more bites most of the time depending on the technique you are fishing or the cover you are fishing. If you are fishing thick grass, lily pads, or thick cover with punch baits, jigs, swim baits or on top of thick grass and cover with frogs I don't think it matters and I tie directly to the bait with braid.

Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: ezbassin] #12093380 02/14/17 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted By: ezbassin
Originally Posted By: charlieecho
Can someone explain to me why people do this? To me it seems like it has triple the chance of knot failure (2 knots to join the line then your lure knot).


I can't stand the line curl I get when using spinning equipment and a non braided line so I will use 20# test braid as my main line and then I tie on a leader with the Alberto knot. The Alberto knot is a strong, small knot that will not break before the leader line does if it is tied correctly. Having a leader tied on rather than tying directly to your bait will get you more bites most of the time depending on the technique you are fishing or the cover you are fishing. If you are fishing thick grass, lily pads, or thick cover with punch baits, jigs, swim baits or on top of thick grass and cover with frogs I don't think it matters and I tie directly to the bait with braid.


This^^^ that is exactly my reasoning as well. I use this application on baitcasters as well for other reasons (mostly for manageability and sensitivity and it lasts longer), but you definitely hit the nail on the head.

Last edited by BigBassB; 02/14/17 03:26 PM.
Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Dale Griffin] #12093772 02/14/17 06:10 PM
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A knot ALWAYS weakens a line or a rope. Always.

Even if you tied a simple overhand knot somewhere along the length of a fishing line, it'd break there most of the time. When it doesn't it means that the line had an imperfection in it that was more susceptible to tension than the knot limitation.

So, anyone who says they have no issues with knots breaking . . . can actually be pretty much correct. But, it doesn't mean it is one of the mythical 100% knots (they don't exist), it means that the reduced strength of the line at the knot is still greater than any tensile force acting on it by a fish and angler pulling at each end. And, it likely means the angler is re-tying and managing his knots really well. And, it likely means he or she ties a superior knot (but it is still going to be the weak link). And, it likely means the angler is more skilled at setting drag tension and fighting fish. Any or all of the above will help a lot.

The reason for knot weakness? The strength of a fishing line (or a climbing rope, etc.) is proportional across its cross-sectional area as long as it is straight. A knot puts a bend or a crimp in a line so it places extra tension on the outside of the bend, and it compresses the inside of the bend. The outside "stretched fibers" have more load on them and start to fray, then break, leaving less fibers working against the tension, less cross section now to support the tension. It is all downhill after that.

Best practice for braid main line to fluoro or mono leaders? Re-tie them at least every time before you go out. Same with lures/terminal tackle . . . if you don't retie them, it is just a matter of time before they'll fall off assuming you approach the maximum load they can carry.


Brad

Re: Braid to Fluoro [Re: Brad R] #12094566 02/15/17 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted By: Brad R
A knot ALWAYS weakens a line or a rope. Always.

Even if you tied a simple overhand knot somewhere along the length of a fishing line, it'd break there most of the time. When it doesn't it means that the line had an imperfection in it that was more susceptible to tension than the knot limitation.

So, anyone who says they have no issues with knots breaking . . . can actually be pretty much correct. But, it doesn't mean it is one of the mythical 100% knots (they don't exist), it means that the reduced strength of the line at the knot is still greater than any tensile force acting on it by a fish and angler pulling at each end. And, it likely means the angler is re-tying and managing his knots really well. And, it likely means he or she ties a superior knot (but it is still going to be the weak link). And, it likely means the angler is more skilled at setting drag tension and fighting fish. Any or all of the above will help a lot.

The reason for knot weakness? The strength of a fishing line (or a climbing rope, etc.) is proportional across its cross-sectional area as long as it is straight. A knot puts a bend or a crimp in a line so it places extra tension on the outside of the bend, and it compresses the inside of the bend. The outside "stretched fibers" have more load on them and start to fray, then break, leaving less fibers working against the tension, less cross section now to support the tension. It is all downhill after that.

Best practice for braid main line to fluoro or mono leaders? Re-tie them at least every time before you go out. Same with lures/terminal tackle . . . if you don't retie them, it is just a matter of time before they'll fall off assuming you approach the maximum load they can carry.


Brad



Well said. I can see that. I personally, will try to tie on as much line as I think I will ever have out at one time. That way I'm not respooling every time I put new line on. Saves line and money.


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