10lbs Test Without Leader for Redfish?

I'm thinking of getting a 7'6" Medium Light Fast spinning rod, and using 10lbs test without a leader for Trout & Redfish. I'm thinking of this as my soft plastics rod.

Do you think the 10lbs test is enough for Redfish?

I use 30lb braid on my spinning rods for plastics, no need to fuss with anything else, just tie em on and get after it.

One of the biggest reds I've caught was on my wife's Pfluger rod/reel combo with 10 lb. mono. Fish was 43 inches and took over 30 minutes to land after it made 4 runs.

Remember, the drag is your friend. Use it wisely.

On the other hand, I've hooked Reds that I couldn't turn using a Shimano Calcutta, Falcon heavy action rod and 25lb mono. I've broke a rod or two on big reds.

For the majority of slot sized reds 10 lb line is enough unless that red is running you through oyster reefs or around structure.

I've used 10lb P-line and put several good sized reds in the boat, but I like the 30lb braid/6lb dia. better. I guess its a confidence thing. Putting a little more pressure on the fish and getting him in the boat is the goal for me.

I guess I should of said that I'd be wade fishing.

So would I be correct in saying that the Redfish one is likely to encounter while wading should be small enough that 10lb test would work in the majority of cases?

I'd consider 12lb test, but the rod I'm thinking of says 6-12, and I've read somewhere that you should use test within the suggested range, not at the limits.

Any truth to this?

Dude..you *CAN* catch a slot red on 6 lb test, or 50 lb test, depends on your equipment, and skill.

I'm just saying I'm DONE with mono on my spinning rods throwing plastics, braid won't break barely rubbing an oyster shell, or break when it's got a wad of grass attached to it. You will feel more bites, and spend less time retying after every fish (which you better do with mono). Braid casts better, lasts longer, and will produce more fish at the end of the day.

If you do hook a 32" over sized, you won't kill it with a half hour ordeal like you will with small mono, get him in, you got all you wanted out of him, and let him swim away.

Redfish are far from line-shy, just tie the braid on and go, no leader or other junk to mess with. 30 lb braid, 1/8" Oldham screw lock head, and a sand eel, that's 99% of what I need right there. You'll cast it easier, put a better hook set on it, and break off maybe one a year, instead of three or four a day.

Instead of Braided, would 10lb Fluorocarbon solve the problem?

I use 10 & 15lb braid on my spinning tackle and have best result compared to any mono, or carbon. Power pro is my best friend on all my reels.

Do y'all use swivels with your spinning reels? I keep reading that if you're using a spinning reel, you need a swivel.

I guess this dude ain't getting it....

I'll type slower.
Braid: power pro, spider wire, brand doesn't matter.
No leader
No nothing.
Tie it to your lure, go fishing. Be happy. That's as good as it can get. Some of us have already fooled with every combination you can come up with. Nothing works better.

Thanks Pat!!!

If you spool with 10 lb mono, you will think it's great. You can cast it forever with a 1/4 oz jig head. But then, you will a fish will grab your jig when you only have 5' line out and ping, there goes your jig. Or you snag a piece of oyster and either have to walk through you entire area to unhook it or ping, there goes another jig. There is also benifit to having stronger test when your waist deep and trying to land a fish.

The only thing I do differnt than Pat is tie on about a 24" 20 lb flouro leader with a uni to uni. The only reason I do that is I usually start out throwing a spook jr and switch to plastic at some point during the first wade. I've had no luck getting a walking bait to operate correctly with braid tied directly. So for me, it's 30 lb braid, uni-d to 20 lb flour leader, loop knoted to spook jr. Then after the sun gets up a bite of the loop knot and spook, stick it ont he top of my hat and tie on a sand eel.

Some use a mono leader to give the line some stretch so you don't rip the lips off of a fish. I am beginning to use almost all circle hooks. I'm pouring my own circle hook jigs and using circles on spinner baits and soft swim baits. Some of my hard baits have circles too. You don't strike using a circle hook so the stretch factor is mitigated. Interestingly enough, every guide I know uses mono attached to braid for their clients. BTW, Reds and trout are not line shy so you can use 18-20 lb mono - less expensive than braid. That said, most of my reels have braid with mono leaders. Braid is excellent for flounder as it transmits light hits much better - because of no stretch. There are trade offs with any line you choose. Guys who long cast in the surf use about 50-60 lb mono as a shock leader. Their rule is 10 lbs of leader strength for every ounce of weight being casted.

I have catching at ROLLOVER PASS (fishing with 1/8oz.jig on the bank)23lb.,40 inch red fish with ultra light spinning reel ABU CARDINAL 600UL,FIRELINE SMOKE 4lb+XPS fluorocarbon leader 14lb.

braid and a florucarbon leader woks for me.

Okay, so would this Rod, Reel, Line & Leader combo work well for soft plastics going after Redfish & Trout while wading?

Rod - St Croix Avid 7'6" MLF 6-12lb 1/8-1/2oz
Spinning Reel - Daiwa TD Fuego2500A
Line - 30lb Braid
Leader - 20lb Fluorocarbon

Is there a risk of the rod breaking because the line is to strong?

Personally, I don't like the casting characteristics of fluorocarbon. I stick with Trilene XL (old school, for sure) for the limp non-memory characteristics and check for frays with every fish. 12-lb is my all around weight.

If you're just using a jig head and tail, tie it directly to the braid.

But you do agree with the combo, and I needn't be unduly concerned about rod breakge?

Generally speaking that combo will do fine. I've broken several rods while horsing reds to the shore/boat. Falcon, St.Croix and another one that can't remember. So, it is possible that you could break a rod, but not likely.

Thanks Mike!!!

And thanks again Pat - I like the idea of keeping it simple!!!

I wouldn't worry too much about rod breakage. Set the drag properly, don't horse the big ones and you'll be fine.

Always use a loose drag even if you have 30 lb line. You wont have to worry about breaking the rod. With Soft plastics only, I don't worry about the leader. Unless there is a specific need for the leader, less knots is always better.

You might consider a little heavier action on your rod, when I use less than a MH, the rod tends to whip around, and causes the aggravating wind knots.

But everyone is different, most use a lighter action, I like the stiffer mostly for stabbing a flounder, they clamp down on a jig so hard it's difficult to get the hook in one. Oldham screw lock head with a gamakatsu hook will go a loooong way in improving your catch ratio.

I was thinking of using a 1/8oz jighead, do I need to step up to 1/4oz because of the braid - supposedly they float?

No, I use 1/8 99.999% of the time, no issues.

that is it in a nutshell. Don't neglect to set your drag properly. I too have had a rod broken but it was because I wasn't paying attention to my drag.

I remember throwing Kelly Wigglers with a Abu Garcia 1000( my first Baitcaster) and 10lb line,Matching red Abu Garcia 7 ft Popping rod........I Slaughtered the Reds and Trout on that rig when I was a kid...

Dunno how anyone is breaking any rods, considering I haven't broken a rod in all my time fishing, but braid does do a number on your rod. Braid has alot of sensitivity, but I prefer not to use it due to its nature. It doesn't stretch at all, has alot of memory in the Texas summer heat, and it can and will damage your rods. I think you're vastly overestimating the redfish you're gonna catch, but better to be safe than sorry, I guess, but 10 lb. mono should be more than enough for anything you hook into.

Personally, I throw 6 lb. test mono. It works great on my 7 ft. rod with 2500 capacity reel, and I feel that I can catch pretty much anything of a decent size in saltwater or freshwater. I've caught huge bull reds and jack crevalle wadefishing with it and it is more than sufficient With 10 lb. mono, you'll have that extra little bit of leeway. You don't need a swivel and you really don't need to worry about rod breakage, as long as you use mono.

With braid, the temptation is to use it to its capacity, which your rod and reel combination is not built for. Your reel will only have a max drag capacity of around 12 lbs., so any force over about 18-20 lbs would be a test of your max reel capacity and your rod flex. Obviously, 30 lbs. is significantly more than this number. Having your reel on it's highest drag setting and rod above its rating also decreases performance and longevity. Braid is quite resistant, however, but when you tie on a section of leader, it only adds another potential problem to your rig. The rule of thumb is to use as few knots as possible, because each knot is a potential failure of your rig. So, if you're gonna use braid, tie it directly to your lure. Otherwise, you're still gonna be fishing mono/flouro anyways.

You know on the flat white sand of LLM, that rig might work just fine.

6 lb mono on a oyster reef is history. 10 lb mono on a reef is a gonner. Twelve pounds of snagged grass on a redfish run makes mono a gonner.

All I know, I take a lot of people with me, many of them talk the same garbage I'm reading here. ALL of them are buying braid the next night.

6 lb mono on a jack? Better have the motor fired up when he hits, you'll be chasing that unit quite a while.

Garbage, huh??? Alright, whatever... You like braid, fine. I could care less...

It's no big deal to me, use whatever you want. I totally understand if you don't have the skill or ability to fish lighter test than 30 lb. braided line. No worries. I fish the Galveston Bay. I fish plenty of shell on my wades and I fish reef when I get the chance to get on a boat. My 6 lb. test holds up more than sufficiently.

You can take your garbage fishing skills and go somewhere where someone cares. Everyone is on here trying to help out other anglers and get tips ourselves. No reason for you to come on here and disparage other people just because they don't agree with you. We all have our different experiences and level of skill, but if you're gonna throw mud, you should probably find another place to do so, sir.

The man asked for our opinions, and he obviously is fortunate enough to get four pages of replies. I'm sure he'll take in the advice and find what suits him and his abilities and methods. It serves no one any good, especially the people asking for help and advice, if you go about trashing everyone else's ideas and suggestions. It's counterproductive, to say the least. We're just offering suggestions for the man to try.

Well dj, I have to say this. I have been using braid for a long time, it doesn't have any memory that I've seen (don't know what Texas heat would have to do with memory anyway) and have yet to see a rod damaged by using braid. Maybe those cheap Academy rods if you have the drag tightened up. I use the 20# Power Pro, it far more sensitve and tougher than mono. My only complaint is it gets wrapped the rod tip alot in the wind.
And as far as catching Jacks with 6# mono, lets just say I would have to see it to believe it.

You know it's really exciting when we get to be in the presence of master anglers. I am truly humbled.

For us mere mortals,most of us have a better day on the water, and enjoy ourselves more using what I recommended. Sorry we can't get into the zen utopia of playing a four pound redfish for twenty minutes.

Most of my inshore tackle is spooled with 20lb Power Pro. For the most part it is as heavy as I'll ever need. However, I have one redfish hole that is adjacent to an oyster covered seawall. Because of the wall's close proximity to the hole the reds will run for the wall after taking your bait/lure. This requires that you use maximum drag to turn the big ones and horse 'em away from the wall.

I've pulled some mid 40 inch reds off that wall. Then there were some that I couldn't turn which led to broken rods or broken line. Just the cost of doing business.

Go fish with the 10lb rig and have fun. As time goes by you can add heavier tackle to your arsenal. It took me years to acquire all of my tackle. I'm still acquiring new gear all the time.

The main thing is get out and fish. The experience you gain will be priceless and you'll learn first hand what works best and what doesn't. The goal is to have a good time doing it.

+1 I stay in the bays, fish 10 lb. mono and have only broke off once. Have yet to lose any sleep over it, much like this post. He11 I'm havin' to much fun!

Well, fastpitch, I just think you should probably look on the Power Pro website and read about their product. Everything I listed, and more, are obviously factors when using braided line, and it is specifically listed on their website. The distinction between Power Pro and some other braided line is they have tried to do their best to manufacture a product to limit the majority of those negatives. Don't get me wrong, Power Pro is definitely a tried and true product, as well as some other braided and fused line, but the points of contention I brought up are acknowledged by those companies as well.

Now, we can debate all you guys care to debate, but when the website of a braided line manufacturer lists the same cons that I am listing, I'm pretty sure that perhaps a few items I have mentioned are correct. I don't care about your specific fishing situation or whatever else, or any snarky comments from Goff.

As I said before, the guy came here to ask for advice. We're all trying to contribute with our input and experiences in helping a fisherman make a choice. Hopefully, he will take in all the information and make his choice.

Some people like chocolate, and some people like vanilla. Personally, Power Pro is the da bomb! I feel every strike, don't lose near as many fish, casts like a dream. I especially like it when going after flounder, 'cause you can really stick you some flounder with it!

The difference being I gave my opinion and advice based on personal experience, not something I read off a website.

All I know is from experience. I was fortunate to use the very first braid brought in from Terry Oldham in the early 90's. Everything else followed. I know pride would prevent you from admitting it that day, but you get on my scooter and after a days ventures, you'd be the FIRST to stick to your plastic line.

I understand there's a small percentage of zen guys who get all the fun they want out of wearing out a few fish a day, I get it. You also are in the vast minority. I want to go catch my reds, then all my trout then every flounder I can get on. That's what gives me joy, and most of the time anyone with me has a good time too. Breaking off, losing fish to a poor hookset, watching a trophy unit spool you off just might be the thrill of your life, but it's not mine, I want my mitts on that fish, then I can decide what to do with it.

So, I also give knowledge on experience, mine and the people I associate with. You go have fun, and so will I. Different doesn't mean wrong, it's just different.

I started to read ... then got a headache.

I say try them both.
Take a trip out with both lines spooled on 2 rods.
Throw them all day.
Make your decision.

Regardless, hope you catch fish!

I agree

If ur gonna go light better have at least 15lb braided line.... mono aint gonna make it down here in on the LLM. Snook,Reds,Flounder, Trophy trout love the oyster beds...

Funny, my style / experience is closest to that of djdiggydiggy, but after reading this thread i'm considering giving braid a try for the first time. Gotta love these forums.

At the risk of beating a dead horse, I figure I'll put my two cents in on the debate between braid vs mono.
A few years ago I switched from spooling my spinning reels with mono to 30# braid. I am a braid believer. Its stronger, more sensitive, doesn't twist up like mono and holds a knot much better. By the way the palomer knot is the best knot I have found.
If I am targeting redfish no leader is required. However, if trout are a variable in my fishing equation for the day, I tie on an 18" 30# mono leader connecting the braid and mono with a swivel, using the palomer knot on both sides.
The reason for compromising the strength of the braid with the mono is because of the trouts ability to see the braid if the water has any clarity.
Rod breakage has never been a factor for me, I have snapped a few eyes in the middle portion of the rod. I guess, with a big fish high stress points occur in the eyes of the rod. Fortunately, i buy H&H rods from Gander MOuntain. They have a lifetime gaurantee. I have broken two sets of eyes on two different rods. The H&H rods are equipped with Fuji eyes but they still snap. Gander made good on the gaurantee. The rods cost around $100 but for a lifetime, its worth it.
I have been limiting out on reds with this setup under a popping cork the past few weeks over oyster beds. I like it under the cork because it virtually eliminates snags. Sometimes I tie the leader 3 to 4 feet long if I want to get a little deeper.

I usually fish the bays with 12 pound mono with a leader of 25 pound mono and I have caught quite a few nice trout this winter up to 27" but had two good fish break my line after a good fight
cause they got in the oysters wasn't my skill level as my drag was working fine and was tiring the fish out you will only lose a trophy fish because its a little smarter and stronger than the average fish for that reason alone I'm going to try some powerpro next time I put new line on.

That's fine and dandy, but I'd rather listen to people who make their living off of manufacturing the line. I mean, having a company spend thousands of hours and dollars testing and retesting their product and making improvements can't really be as intensive as your, what, maybe 300 hours spent testing the product? C'mon now. Once again, making comments like that get this discussion nowhere.

I have no problem with people using braid or mono, or whatever choices that are in between. It's actually pretty good to hear that some of this discussion may lead to people trying something they have not tried before. That means that the intention of this thread and website has not been lost in the middle of all this.

JP, it's good to hear that you will try braid, and hopefully, enjoy using it. It definitely is useful in many fishing applications, and hopefully, you will find it to be a great product.

Peter, it's a bit strange reading your post, but your experiences serve to illuminate one of my concerns. You state that rod breakage is not a factor for you, but then state that you have snapped the eyes from your rod. Personally, I consider the guides to be a part of the rod. Just as the reel seat and rod handle are necessary for optimum function, the guides are also integral to the equation as well. High stress like that typically occurs when you put more stress upon the rod or its components than it is designed to handle. Braid facilitates this by its higher tensile break strength, unless you use a comparable test for your rod.

Man,we've come a long way since Cat-GUT....hehe

I got a solution where everyone wins...use 10lb braid (I prefer cortland masterbraid) and add a three foot fifteen to twenty pound flourocarbon leader...you get the small diameter of the braid and the strength..plus the stretch and invisibility with the flourocarbon leader...use a uni to uni to tie it together.

300 hours? You have no clue what you're talking about. Keep on giving your comical advice based on your vast website research and dubious claims of catching Jacks on 6# mono. I need a good laugh. I'm done with this.

All I know, if you'd been with me this weekend, you'd be changing your line....

Every red was in knee deep water, in scattered shell pods and grass. Every single fish was jacked up on red bull, they'd go 10 feet to bust a lure, then turn on the jets sideways, into every shell they could find. I had two very good fishermen with me, and after five break offs, enough was indeed enough.

They both respooled and that was that. Keep preaching all you want, just don't get mad if it doesn't work.

Lets beat this Dog some more.Jeez.

Alright, guess I overestimated your time on the water. I'll go down to 200 then... You obviously have very little clue about anything concerning this topic.

My apologies, Dog...

this thread is awesome...

anyways, for inshore i have my 2500 stradic rigged with 30 suffix braid, and for surf i have my 4000 stradic rigged with 30 suffix; all on a medium action castaway 7'6" rod. i can't turn the big ones like a heavier action rod, but it gets the job done. no break offs in oyster. the 2500 stradic is my go to rig bouncing arti's in carlos bay (talk about shell). like mentioned before, if the top water bite is on and my casting rig is in the boat, i'll uni/uni a floro leader and have at it.


when i use mono, which is only on casting rigs, its 12# or 15# p-line for all my inshore fishing. surf calls for my ambassadeur 6500 with 20# mono, have yet to spool with braid.

just get out there and fish.

Whatever, you're a weekend warrior from Dallas trying to be a saltwater guru and failing miserably. There is a great thread on braid on the 2cool site, I suggest you read it. You will learn something from people who are on the water almost every day, not somebody regurgitating stuff they read on websites. Your credibilty will go up if you get some personal experience with stuff you are giving advice and opinions on.

Daaannng! You girls really should stop arguing and just go fishing! LOL!

So I am more confused than before after reading this?!? I was hoping to gain some knowledge so I could try something new. I use 20lb mono with 40lb mono leader in the surf and do just fine. I was thinking of paying the money to put braid on but seems I should just stick with what I use.

If I do go to braid should I use mono or fluorocarbon leader?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just don't take advice from someone who has never used braid, but thinks he's an expert on it because he read a website.

It's all just tools in your box. Is there purpose for both lines? Absolutely yes. I only throw brain on my spinning rods, it lays better and works better with a jig head and plastic.

I use mono on my casting rods, I like the way it casts better, and the way it works on a top water or hard bait.

Would I *ever* use 6 lb anything? Not likely, I guess I'm just too greedy, I want to catch as many as I can.

Try it all, it's just line, you'll get your own system down that works best for you, wherever you go.

nicely said mr. goff

I just caught a 41 inch bull red at south jetty on 10lb test yesterday, and hooked up on a jack crevaille but it straighted out my steel swivel

I use the same setup except I use a leader. I usually use a 20 or 30 lb fluoro leader. I feel the fluor increases the strike ratio, it also stands up to gill plates and teeth a little better than the braid. I have caught literally hundreds, maybe more than a thousand reds in my days of fishing port A and it is best to use a heavier rig than needed. If fishing for the big boys at the jetty, a 10 lb rig will not work. It is possible you could land one but it would be very difficult a 45+ inch red will just sit on the bottom with that rig and you could not move him. 20 or 30lb braid would be perfect for any reds you come across. This fish was caught on 12lb test but I do not recommend it. It took forever to land and had I been using the right tackle, it might have taken me 5 minutes. Caught it while sheepshead fishing. Thought I had a world record sheepshead.


If you plan on releasing the fish, be prepared with the right tackle so as little stress as possible is put on the fish. A long fight will probably equal death to the fish. The fish in the picture is a smaller large red at around 44 inches or so. We catch them up to 50inches+. A ten lb setup would be useless. Listen to pat and add a leader if you like but braid is all that is needed for everything down at the coast. Leaders come in handy on toothy critters and fish with sharp gill plates. Braid cuts easily on sharp objects.

Your swivel must have really sucked, especially since you claim your line had a 10 lb test break point. Steel is usually stronger than mono????!!!!???? I have caught many jacks off the jetty and in my boat down there and 10lb test is not ideal and will not land a jack unless you have 5000 yards of line on your reel. It would be tough to catch a bonita on 10lb test, much less a jack. why are you using 10lb test at the jetty? U just not know any better????



This jack was caught from shore with 20lb test and it was not a fun fight. I took a member of the forum on a PINS trip to catch lots of large trout and I ended up hooking into this. You can see the lure in its mouth and a fluoro leader. 10lb test would make this a tough job. 10lb test is good for nothing but croaker, trout, piggy perch and minnows.

Sounds good to me for bay fishing. Uni to uni is the way to go, no swivels, period. Swivels are not needed unless using live bait on a carolina rig. The fluoro leader is good for many things including gill plates, teeth, oyster reef, barnacles, and anything else sharp you might come across. Sorry for so many replies but the more I read, the more I realize how much help some of you guys need. 10lb test is great for trout but go heavier for larger fish or you will have quite a bit of work on your hands when you hook into a larger fish.

I wish this thread would go away. Its been entertaining but I don't think anybody can squeeze anymore juice out of it.

Thing is, Pat hit the nail on the head and then someone has to question his information. Peter, you seem to have an idea but if you read, you will realize that most people have no clue. I do not know Pat but his information could save some people quite a bit of trial and error. This thread is actually a good one for the rooks. What are people thinking when they talk about using 6-10lb test for reds??? Sure it can work but its not ideal. I apologize if I offended U but I did not make you read this thread again, you did it on your own free will.

No need to apologize PiePuncher. No offense taken. I just don't like to see people getting all bent out of shape over fishing. Next to catching fish my favorite part of fishing is the stress relief. I just hope old Pat isn't letting the argument ruffle his feathers too much.

Me? I've got thick skin..

I take a lot of newbies out, some have freshwater experience, some don't have that. I get quite a few that went to academy before the trip with the "perfect" setup recommended by the crack head behind the counter, really whippy rods, 10 lb mono, and a bag full of [censored] to throw. You *can* catch something on that, but they'll usually be begging a setup within an hour.

how about 10 pound mono line for trout/whiting???

People are thinking that perhaps fishing should require a bit of skill in landing fish and not just meat hauling fish to shore. Funny enough, there seems to still be alot of emphasis by some people for "sport fishing" and not fishing for food. Perhaps a few of us are fishing for the experience of being outdoors and the time spent with friends, not for the express purpose of putting food on the table. To each his own, but there seems to be more than a bit of chest thumping going on in this thread. Great to hear about all of your experience, so feel free to share your information. But to trumpet your method above all others is not always the wisest choice.

Your swivel must have really sucked, especially since you claim your line had a 10 lb test break point. Steel is usually stronger than mono????!!!!???? I have caught many jacks off the jetty and in my boat down there and 10lb test is not ideal and will not land a jack unless you have 5000 yards of line on your reel. It would be tough to catch a bonita on 10lb test, much less a jack. why are you using 10lb test at the jetty? U just not know any better????

well i had braided thirty lb on other rods and 20lb test on another but i do like using the lightest tackled possible when fishing i had no problems catching that red on 10lb, as long as i keep it out of rocks i am not worried... i have caught plenty of big fish on light lines,also i am sorry but i didnt mean to say i hooked up on the jack with the 10lb but i lost that fish on the same day and it hooked up on my rod with braided line... but my friend did pull in a 38 inch jack on 20lb line with the same rig we were using mine got straightened out, but yea i am going to buy stronger swivels from now on and although i know these fish are known for spooling reels wasnt even close on that catch

i dont see why u have to be so abrasive when u are talking to me either...

I fish deeper inshore and 10 lb test mono is great to use. I caught my biggest redfish a 12 lb fish off the 10 lb mono. If your not fishing deeper water or surf then higher test is not needed.

It more personel preference than anything. I too fish old school with my ABU 4601 on a 7' Castaway MH, 8-17lb, loaded with #14 stren. I generally cast with the wind to my back but at times need to cast into the wind and find that the heavier line backlashes less. I tie directly to the jighead and rarely have I had to retie, mostly hook the reds in the corner of the mouth. You cant go wrong with your favorite bass rig, spinning or casting!