Posted By: Holding The Line
3 Ways to Work America's Newest White Bass Lure - 08/26/20 01:16 AM
If you, like me, have been frustrated at working to find summertime white bass and hybrids only to have them refuse your slab, jig, tailspinner, etc., or just react half-heartedly to those lures, join me in giving the new MAL Lure a try.
I developed this lure with the assistance of Mepps specifically for summertime white bass and hybrid stripers. It has a unique combination of colors, blade size, hook size, hook dressing, and, most importantly, body weight, which makes it sink faster than any other inline spinner I have experimented with. These are available only on my website***.
So, here are three ways to use the MAL (Maindelle's All-purpose Lure)...
Here's a link: MAL LURE
1. Smoking - smoking simply consists of dropping your lure to the bottom and quickly retrieving it back toward the surface. Although you can smoke "blind", I never do, nor would I recommend it. Instead, save the smoking until you see fish holding beneath your boat, either on bottom (best) or suspended. I like to find fish by downrigging, and then capitalize on what I've found by Spot-Locking atop the fish I've just located, and then working them over with a smoking tactic until they quit.
I use the smoking tactic in combination with either well-tuned 2D sonar or Garmin LiveScope. I want to see the fish, my MAL Lure, and the fishes' response to what I do. I always use this tactic with my boat in a steady hover atop the fish I am fishing for, using Spot-Lock.
No matter where the fish are, I want to make sure my smoking retrieve gives them a minimum of 6-8 feet of "chase distance" upwards toward the surface from the depth they are holding in the water column. For example, if I see fish holding at 24 feet over a 30 foot bottom, I will drop the MAL to the bottom and reel up to around the 16-18 foot mark so the fish not only see the bait, but also have a chance to start after it, overtake it, and eat it.
The cadence is the same as for sight casting -- a bit more than one reel handle revolution per second. Again, as with sight casting, resist the urge to do a hard hookset.
When the fish disappear from sonar, it is time to look for more fish. I suggest not sitting in one spot "hoping" the fish will come back. Once the fish go more than 3-4 minutes off of sonar, move!
2. Sight-casting - some may wonder, "Is catching fish feeding on topwater really such a challenge that whatever I usually use wouldn't do just fine?" I would suggest this lure works as good or better than other shad-imitators for this application. As a guide, I found myself bringing a number of sets of rods for each summertime trip -- rods for downrigging, rods for vertical jigging, rods for sight-casting, rods for horizontal bladebait work, etc. Now, having one lure I can use horizontally and vertically, and from top to bottom, I can take one set of rods for all of the above, plus 2 of my super-whippy downrigger rods, and have the entire trip covered.
To sight cast with the MAL Lure, I try to drift with the wind into the fish (not run them down with the trolling motor). The weight of the MAL Lure is such that with a well-filled spinning reel, you can cast a country mile. You've all probably noted how, when fish are on the surface, they keep a buffer between your boat and themselves. The distance this lure casts more than overcomes that distance.
I try to cast beyond all of the topwater commotion and bring the lure back through it at a fast, steady cadence. Resist jigging, juking, jiving, or jerking. A plain-Jane retrieve helps the fishes' pea-sized brain calculate a simple angle of pursuit so they can be successful in overtaking the lure.
As soon as the lure hits the water, close your bail by hand (don't use the reel's handle to accomplish this). This will get the lure coming back to you before it sinks too far, and, as a bonus, will cut down on wind knots for those who use braid. Retrieve at a fast, steady cadence. Turn slightly more than one handle rotation per second. Keep your rod tip low to the water -- no more than 10 inches off the surface. This will keep it from skipping out of the water on a fast retrieve, and will keep it submerged until it is right near the boat, giving you a shot at a fish right up until you remove the lure from the water to load up for another cast.
Once you get a strike, resist the urge to set the hook. Setting the hook (especially if you use zero-stretch braided line) will often jerk the hook away from the fish before it gets hooked. Since white bass and hybrid stripers are a schooling fish, you not only jerk the lure away from the fish you missed, but also from the 5 or 6 other fish which were following in close order. Once you make that jerk and the lure accelerates away from that pack, the pack turns away and you've blown your opportunity.
To recap for sightcasting:
-Drift to them, don't run them down
-Fill your spool to capacity
-Cast over all the fish you can and retrieve through as many as you can
-Keep the lure high in the water and your rod tip low and steady.
-Keep reeling until a fish is hooked without doing a hard, sweeping hookset
3. Lift-Dropping - lift-dropping involves retrieving the MAL Lure back to the boat horizontally after making a long cast and allowing the lure to sink to the bottom. The lift-dropping action resembles a saw-tooth pattern. This tactic can be used from a Spot-Lock position, or casting downwind while drifting. Do not cast upwind while drifting.
After casting, leave the spinning reel's bail open so the lure sinks quickly and straight down. Once the lure settles on the bottom, close the bail by hand (this will prevent problematic loops from forming in braided line). Next, turn the handle to take up any slack and, once the line is taut, reel 6-8 cranks, thus bringing the bait off the bottom at an angle, headed back toward the boat.
Once those 6-8 handle cranks are done, manually open the bail again, allowing the lure to return to the bottom. Repeat the cranking and bail opening process until the lure is nearly vertical beneath the boat. As you bring the lure back to the boat the final time, reel at a moderate cadence. A lot of reluctant fish which follow your bait back to the boat will strike at this point in time.
This tactic works best for me when fish are horizontally spread over a shallow, flat area, up to about 17 feet deep. Beyond that depth, even a long cast fails to cover much horizontal distance along the bottom, and the efficacy of the tactic drops off.
If you haven't given one of these a try, I ask you to do so. Here's a link: MAL LURE
Here's what I use for tackle. It isn't necessary that you duplicate this exactly, but, you want a spinning rod with some whip to it, and a 2000 or 2500-series or smaller reel. Always use a swivel. I like the Invisaswivel, but a good old metal swivel is just fine.
My gear: My favorite pairing for this incredibly effective bait is to use Sufix 832 Advanced Superline (a braid) in 20 pound test, attached to a clear, 35-pound test Aquateko Invisaswivel, which is then attached to a ~24-inch fluorocarbon leader in 25-pound test. A swivel is necessary to eliminate line twist, and the Invisaswivel is easier on your rod’s tip than metallic swivels.
I use a Berkley Inshore BSINS701ML, 7’, 1-piece spinning rod with a Pflueger President PRESP25 spinning reel (5.2:1 gear ratio).
*** While the MAL Lure is available only on my website, I want everyone to know I am charging EXACTLY the same amount per lure as Mepps charges for their similar baseline spinner which is NOT modified specifically for white bass and hybrids. Additionally, for you in Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, Georgia and other locations in the SE and SW, my fixed shipping rate of $4.70 regardless of quantity will be quite welcome.
I welcome your constructive input.
I developed this lure with the assistance of Mepps specifically for summertime white bass and hybrid stripers. It has a unique combination of colors, blade size, hook size, hook dressing, and, most importantly, body weight, which makes it sink faster than any other inline spinner I have experimented with. These are available only on my website***.
So, here are three ways to use the MAL (Maindelle's All-purpose Lure)...
Here's a link: MAL LURE
1. Smoking - smoking simply consists of dropping your lure to the bottom and quickly retrieving it back toward the surface. Although you can smoke "blind", I never do, nor would I recommend it. Instead, save the smoking until you see fish holding beneath your boat, either on bottom (best) or suspended. I like to find fish by downrigging, and then capitalize on what I've found by Spot-Locking atop the fish I've just located, and then working them over with a smoking tactic until they quit.
I use the smoking tactic in combination with either well-tuned 2D sonar or Garmin LiveScope. I want to see the fish, my MAL Lure, and the fishes' response to what I do. I always use this tactic with my boat in a steady hover atop the fish I am fishing for, using Spot-Lock.
No matter where the fish are, I want to make sure my smoking retrieve gives them a minimum of 6-8 feet of "chase distance" upwards toward the surface from the depth they are holding in the water column. For example, if I see fish holding at 24 feet over a 30 foot bottom, I will drop the MAL to the bottom and reel up to around the 16-18 foot mark so the fish not only see the bait, but also have a chance to start after it, overtake it, and eat it.
The cadence is the same as for sight casting -- a bit more than one reel handle revolution per second. Again, as with sight casting, resist the urge to do a hard hookset.
When the fish disappear from sonar, it is time to look for more fish. I suggest not sitting in one spot "hoping" the fish will come back. Once the fish go more than 3-4 minutes off of sonar, move!
2. Sight-casting - some may wonder, "Is catching fish feeding on topwater really such a challenge that whatever I usually use wouldn't do just fine?" I would suggest this lure works as good or better than other shad-imitators for this application. As a guide, I found myself bringing a number of sets of rods for each summertime trip -- rods for downrigging, rods for vertical jigging, rods for sight-casting, rods for horizontal bladebait work, etc. Now, having one lure I can use horizontally and vertically, and from top to bottom, I can take one set of rods for all of the above, plus 2 of my super-whippy downrigger rods, and have the entire trip covered.
To sight cast with the MAL Lure, I try to drift with the wind into the fish (not run them down with the trolling motor). The weight of the MAL Lure is such that with a well-filled spinning reel, you can cast a country mile. You've all probably noted how, when fish are on the surface, they keep a buffer between your boat and themselves. The distance this lure casts more than overcomes that distance.
I try to cast beyond all of the topwater commotion and bring the lure back through it at a fast, steady cadence. Resist jigging, juking, jiving, or jerking. A plain-Jane retrieve helps the fishes' pea-sized brain calculate a simple angle of pursuit so they can be successful in overtaking the lure.
As soon as the lure hits the water, close your bail by hand (don't use the reel's handle to accomplish this). This will get the lure coming back to you before it sinks too far, and, as a bonus, will cut down on wind knots for those who use braid. Retrieve at a fast, steady cadence. Turn slightly more than one handle rotation per second. Keep your rod tip low to the water -- no more than 10 inches off the surface. This will keep it from skipping out of the water on a fast retrieve, and will keep it submerged until it is right near the boat, giving you a shot at a fish right up until you remove the lure from the water to load up for another cast.
Once you get a strike, resist the urge to set the hook. Setting the hook (especially if you use zero-stretch braided line) will often jerk the hook away from the fish before it gets hooked. Since white bass and hybrid stripers are a schooling fish, you not only jerk the lure away from the fish you missed, but also from the 5 or 6 other fish which were following in close order. Once you make that jerk and the lure accelerates away from that pack, the pack turns away and you've blown your opportunity.
To recap for sightcasting:
-Drift to them, don't run them down
-Fill your spool to capacity
-Cast over all the fish you can and retrieve through as many as you can
-Keep the lure high in the water and your rod tip low and steady.
-Keep reeling until a fish is hooked without doing a hard, sweeping hookset
3. Lift-Dropping - lift-dropping involves retrieving the MAL Lure back to the boat horizontally after making a long cast and allowing the lure to sink to the bottom. The lift-dropping action resembles a saw-tooth pattern. This tactic can be used from a Spot-Lock position, or casting downwind while drifting. Do not cast upwind while drifting.
After casting, leave the spinning reel's bail open so the lure sinks quickly and straight down. Once the lure settles on the bottom, close the bail by hand (this will prevent problematic loops from forming in braided line). Next, turn the handle to take up any slack and, once the line is taut, reel 6-8 cranks, thus bringing the bait off the bottom at an angle, headed back toward the boat.
Once those 6-8 handle cranks are done, manually open the bail again, allowing the lure to return to the bottom. Repeat the cranking and bail opening process until the lure is nearly vertical beneath the boat. As you bring the lure back to the boat the final time, reel at a moderate cadence. A lot of reluctant fish which follow your bait back to the boat will strike at this point in time.
This tactic works best for me when fish are horizontally spread over a shallow, flat area, up to about 17 feet deep. Beyond that depth, even a long cast fails to cover much horizontal distance along the bottom, and the efficacy of the tactic drops off.
If you haven't given one of these a try, I ask you to do so. Here's a link: MAL LURE
Here's what I use for tackle. It isn't necessary that you duplicate this exactly, but, you want a spinning rod with some whip to it, and a 2000 or 2500-series or smaller reel. Always use a swivel. I like the Invisaswivel, but a good old metal swivel is just fine.
My gear: My favorite pairing for this incredibly effective bait is to use Sufix 832 Advanced Superline (a braid) in 20 pound test, attached to a clear, 35-pound test Aquateko Invisaswivel, which is then attached to a ~24-inch fluorocarbon leader in 25-pound test. A swivel is necessary to eliminate line twist, and the Invisaswivel is easier on your rod’s tip than metallic swivels.
I use a Berkley Inshore BSINS701ML, 7’, 1-piece spinning rod with a Pflueger President PRESP25 spinning reel (5.2:1 gear ratio).
*** While the MAL Lure is available only on my website, I want everyone to know I am charging EXACTLY the same amount per lure as Mepps charges for their similar baseline spinner which is NOT modified specifically for white bass and hybrids. Additionally, for you in Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, Georgia and other locations in the SE and SW, my fixed shipping rate of $4.70 regardless of quantity will be quite welcome.
I welcome your constructive input.