Putting a Yak on my Equinox

Once my move is over, I am planning on getting a kayak. I drive a small Equinox. Since I would only be hauling a single yak, do I need J-hooks or can I just strap it down directly to the luggage rack on top of my car? I would also use bow and stern straps, but am concerned about the rig sliding off the roof without using J-hooks.

Just use roof rack. It's quite stable.

That is what I had in mind, I just didn’t describe it very well. Do you ever use the bow and stern straps? If loading by yourself, do you lift it up from the back of the car or from the side?

I would never drive a rooftop kayak without bow and stern straps. Check out "hood loops" to make things easier. Many people load from the side if they have a helper, solo folks tend to load from the back and slide it forward. Yakima HandRoll or HullyRollers make sliding it on top easier if you're alone.

I have a Pontiac Vibe that I have transported my kayaks on. I picked up the front of the kayak held it onto the roof rack bar at 90 deg then slide the kayak forward then turned it onto the sponge in the front and lifted the back onto the back sponge. Two straps tied 3 feet apart using the rack to tiedown then two front ropes on the front to stop sideways movement. Never once had trouble.

I always load it by myself. My kayak is only 58 pounds.

I put a pad on side and load the kayak from side, and then turn 90 degree. using tie-down straps secure the kayak on the roof. It's very stable. I can drive up to 85 mph without any problems and have used this method for more than two years.

No bow and stern straps are required. I think the swimming noodle provides enough abrasion resistant to stop the slipping.

There is a radio antenna on the back of roof, so I can't load the kayak from the back. Otherwise, this will be the easiest way.

Mudshark: Unless you're really tall and strong, buy a light kayak! I used to load my Pescador 12 on my pickup topper, and a 60 pound kayak was about my limit. Of course, I'm short and old. I used two giant pool noodles, with PVC pipes inside them for my supports/rollers. I prefer to cartop with the kayak bottom-side up. I always run at least one strap thru the scupper holes to "cinch" the kayak, which will make it resistant to slipping aft, due to wind pressure at highway speeds. IslandJim

Loading and unloading.. my favorite subject in kayaking. Speaking from experience and having single handedly destroyed one electric car mirror, two retractable antennas, one sun roof, one paint job, along with numerous back injuries, you want to really think about how you plan to transport your kayak.

Rules to live by:

1. Your kayak will weigh a lot more at the end of the day than it did at the start.
2. Clean and jerk lift method works better when you're younger.
3. Clean and jerk lift method works better when your kayak is balanced.
4. Water in kayak hull makes a balanced kayak, unbalanced.
5. Wind is not your friend when loading or unloading your kayak.
6. The higher your vehicle's roof, the higher your kayak bounces when it hits the ground.
7. Just because you got kayak loaded on to roof, doesn't mean it will be there when you go to strap it down.
8. Your kayak will be the winner in any fight with your vehicle.

P.S.

If you don't strap a Perception Illusion down in J racks, it will sprout wings at about 60 mph.

ALL of these reasons right here are 100% accurate and why I do not kayak fish at the moment. I am buying a truck in Sept so I will get a new yak then. Trying to load a 60+ lb kayak on/off my Ford Explorer luggage rack after being out all day was killer on my back and shoulders. Just couldn't do it anymore.

Maybe I will just rent a boat stall for it.

This might help. Check out the video.

https://www.storeyourboard.com/kayak-lif...BSABEgIrBPD_BwE

https://youtu.be/9X7s7V1JM24

Looks good

Yes, definitely looks good, price is right ...but sucks. I haven't used that particular rack but that type of design with foam pads instead of inflatable has been around forever. Like most folks, I chose to get one since it was the cheapest route to go and the kayak shop expert said it would work great. First time out with it I traveled 200 miles to Tampa for a kayak tournament. When I returned home I noticed that sand and grime from being on the highway got trapped underneath the pads and with the buffeting of the kayak back and forth had ground the paint completely through to metal. It started rusting the very next day after a rain.

The other bad thing about those that no salesman will every tell you is that in a heavy rain those straps will get saturated and you'll have constant dripping of water inside your vehicle in four places. Unless you are part duck, you will not be impressed with the amount of water coming in.

Otherwise if you are prepared for the downside, its a great fit. To fix the grinding problem, you need to cut some shower mats with suction bottom and place it under both pads.