IONIC Lithium Batteries

Does any one have any experience with the IONIC 12 Volt 300Ah Lithium Deep Cycle Battery w/ Heater as a cranking battery and running all other accessories?

Wow, guess I didn’t see that bad boy. What’s the cost on it?

I know I screwed up buying a 50ah for my graphs, I should have went with the 125.

$2299 right now on sale, normally $2999

Better hurry. There’re on sale and they allow you to make payments. Seriously my Ranger 521 has a large bilge area but I couldn’t squeeze one of these according to their dimensions even if I was so inclined.

If you decide you want that battery I can possibly save you a few bucks off that price. Call or text me at 602 690 0803.

Ionics just went to eleven years on their warranty for batteries 50ah and greater. It is retroactive for customers who purchased already. I personally only run the 125ah for my cranking and graphs and it is all I need. The 300ah is an absolute beast

Couple of questions.
1. How many graphs are you running and do you have forward sonar?
2. Can you run your recirculate pumps all day with still enough power to crank the motor? Which big motor do you have?

Grout-scout How many units are you running. I am only running an 8" and 12" humminbird, do I need more than 50ah?

I have 3-12’s, 2 lowrance and 1 Garmin with lvs32. Each pulls 3amps when running, they pull around 1amp when in standby mode. So I originally thought I’d run 2-12’s at the bow, one with 2d & mapping, the other with livescope. The console in sleep mode. That pulled 7amps per hr., in 7 hours the battery was pretty much done for. Now I run the livescope full time and keep the console in standby, except when running of course. That pulls 4amps and gets me through a day. If I run all 3 graphs at 9ah, a 50 amp battery is gone in 5 1/2 hours.


The manufacturers will list the amp draw on your particular model, smaller graphs tend to pull less.

I am running my graphs only on the 50 ionic, I have a separate battery for the motor and livewells. If you’re gonna spend the money, make sure you buy enough the first time. I basically whizzed away $500, because I’ll have to upgrade to a bigger lithium to run the way I’d like too.

Thanks for the information, I think I will be find with 8" and 12" on all day and Mapping with the 50ah Battery.

Look at GYLL Lithium’s, run (2) HDS 12’s and a Garmin 1222. No issues thus far, after a 9-hour day on the water the Garmin unit still reads 12.2 Volts.

Looks like ur gonna run a house off that battery

n-fish What ah battery did you get, I was ready to get a 50ah.

The gyll is a 100ah battery.

If you guys are wanting one for a cranker and electronics, make sure you get an cranking model. If you’re just wanting it for graphs, you can get a regular LiPo4.

Sounds like you should buy Grout's then he can by a bigger one

I have thought about selling it, I think I’ll take a bloodbath on it though. Every now and then Ionic has a great sale, a wise person would be patient and wait for the sale.

A bass fisherman being wise when it comes to buying gear, now that’s funny, , .

Truth, I think a $99 Walmart battery would last as long or longer than the lithium I have.

I’m curious Grout. What makes you say that ?



.

Because I had an old trolling motor battery that was 3 years old (Walmart group 29) and stuck it on my graphs for experimental use, it ran several hours with all 3 of my graphs running. But it was starting to get pretty low in voltage, as where the lithiums stay at 12v+ until pretty much the very end. There are some benefits with the lithiums, if you can swing the cost and buy a big enough one the first time.

I don’t know what the Walmart battery is rated at amp hr wise, I’m not smart enough to figure it out. EDIT: apparently the group 29 Walmart battery is rated at 122 amp hour. I don’t know if you get the full ah on lead acids or how they work.

But man, the weight savings with lithiums (and I mean while putting it in the back of the boat) is great. My shoulders thanked me, my wallet did not.

300 ah is way overkill. all u need for cranking and graphs is the 125 ah

Lithium voltage drop is fast once it drops. One of the advantages over a lead acid or gel cell is that lithium holds a much straighter voltage line. Reading volts on a lithium shows battery still has some reserve not necessarily how much.

300 amp hr is a serious battery. Most cranking batteries have less than 100, most of those are about 80 amp hrs.

I run four graphs, talons, live wells, and still starts every time. I have the same battery setup on my boat with a evinrude 300 G2 and a boat with a mercury Verado. I run the 125 ah in both boats.

We sell a ton of these batteries, have had really good feedback from our customers. I think we've carried them for a year or so. The 125AH is plenty for a cranking battery, it does a fine job in a group 31 size. I have never had a customer decide they needed the 300ah. The 50ah is the most common size we sell for trolling and 125ah for cranking/graphs.

The GYLL I’m using is a 100AH battery. Zero issues thus far

I'm using a 12v 100ah ionic cranker and run (1) 12" solix, (1) 12" helix and (1) 10" Helix as well as a 360. All connected through an ethernet switch box. After 8 hours of fishing I have about 60-65% battery left. One of my favorite things about the Ionics is that they have the Bluetooth monitors. I know a few other brands do this as well. Another benefit is you can call up drewcraft and ask them any questions or concerns and they answer you directly and not through a third party or answering service.

I also run my 24v Ultrex off (2) Ionic 50ah batteries. After 8 hours of fishing I still have 70-80% battery life.

To sum it up, they are great batteries.

I do not believe this battery has the BMS programming to be a start battery.
I ran a 125 AH for four graphs. With pumps and a Talon that can be a large load. I did not fully charge my battery on time and it ran out of juice on me. I added a 2nd 125AH in parallel and no more worries. Note that the 125 AH battereis are designed to be used as start batteries.