Carolina rig

If you’re rigging your own and not purchasing the premade brass weight thing, what specific tackle do you use for yours? Also what plastics do you like best? Thanks!

I use a flouro leader attached to a heavier main line using a barrel swivel then a clacker plate. If you don't have the little brass plate Two beads will work .a red glass beads then the main brass weight. Some favorite baits are lizards,worms and senkos. Flukes can be good sometmes.

Long rod I like 745 or 784 dobyns .20#flouro main line, 1/2-1oz tungsten bullet weight, bobber stop between weight and swivel slid down right on knot (very important), I don’t use a glass bead much it chafes your line. spro swivel, 15-20 flouro or big game leader 3-4 foot long, owner or gami ewg or offset worm hook 3-5 ought. Go to baits are flukes, lizards , brush hogs, hags

Nice. I have all this except the rod.
I do have a falcon lowrider 7’, 8.1 daiwa tatula, with 15lb fluoro main line. Probably go with that for now.

Lizard Dragger Lowrider? Curious because I have the same. I am very Falcon loyal but I'll argue that the Lizard Dragger is not a great Carolina rig rod. The action and power are fine, but it needs to be half a foot or more longer. Unfortunately Falcon doesn't stray far from the 7 foot mark on most of their models.

15 lb fluoro would be the absolute minimum I'd use for main line. Heavier lines stretch less = more sensitive and better hooking power on long casts. Fluoro or braid main line to 2-3 ft leader in about 15 lb mono or fluoro. I'll go as light as 12 lbs on clear dinky-fish lakes but up to 17 on darker big-fish lakes for the leader. I've moved away from using glass beads completely. When they crack from being banged on by the heavy lead, and especially brass or tungsten weights, they will chew your line and eventually break it if you're not checking it after nearly every cast. I use a couple brass clackers between the knot and weight now. As little as 1/2 oz for <10 feet, up to 1.5 or so oz for >20. Generally use lighter weights if brush or vegetation are involved. Larger lead weights for open water for more bottom disturbance when getting hung is unlikely, smaller tungsten weights for thick cover so it can pass through cover more easily. I've had some great days with simple ribbed worms like a Hags Tornado or GrandeBass Rattlesnake, but I usually start with a flappy creature bait and switch to more subtle options if it's not working. Drag with the rod, not your reel. Much more sensitive. Reel down and sweap the hookset, don't slackline it.

7'6" Heavy ALX Dragger
Tatula Type R
50 lb braid main line
14 / 16 lb flouro leader
1/2 - 1 oz Tg weight
Glass bead
Spro Power Swivel
5/0 Gamagatsu Round Bend
10" Worm

This is about all I use on my C-rig and it's caught me some dandies

I use one or two of those little red or clear carolina keepers with a 3/4 or 1 ounce egg sinker above it. Can easily be adjusted. I quit adding a bead or clacker as I feel like the fish are getting accustomed to it. Might be wrong but works for me.

Two tips, if you use lead try some of the bigger size bullet weights, they get hung up less. Stop by a joanne fabrics and goto the isle for jewelry. You can get a bag of glass beads that will last you a lifetime for a couple bucks. Some of rge best fish I have caught were on a Carolina rig working points. When it ia windy, it shines.. Even in shallower water it shines, i will use a smaller weight. Bait is more natural without the weight pulling it down. Go heavy on the rod, and flouro (15-20) pound so you can cross their eyes. Don't know where you live, have a ton of lead weights. If you live in DFW send me an IM.. lastly, always make sure your hooks are wicked sharp. If you don't have a hook sharpener, pick up a cheap diamond sharpener from amazon.

One end tapered, other is flat on one side and grooved on rhe other.
Amazon link

One key to a C-rig is a finer wire hook. Do not use a superline hook. With a leader indirectly attached to the main line via a swivel, you want a smaller gauge hook to more easily penetrate the bass' mouth.

I have also had better success with 3/0 size vs larger 5/0 hooks on Crig.

Over 15' of water-Dobyns Champion DC804C, 8'0" Heavy Fast, Lew's Super Duty, 7.2:1, 20lb fluoro main line, bobber stop, 1oz tungsten weight, no beads, Spro Power swivel, 15lb big game leader, baby brush hog or fluke watermelon candy, sometimes power worm in plum(always plum). Plum is a confidence thing, no real reasoning.

Under 15' of water-G Loomis E6X, 7'5" MH, Lew's Super Duty, 15lb fluoro main line, bobber stop, 3/8oz tungsten weight, no beads, barrel swivel, 12lb big game leader, 3/0 offset, brush hog or fluke

1/2 or 1 oz lead weight. Heavy wire swivel. 3/0 hook.
All you need!!!

Make sure your leader line is lighter than your main line. If you’re throwing 20, run a 14 lbs leader in floro.

Unfortunately my falcon is just the all around model. Are y’all using 8.1 reels?
I’m play money low right now so what’s a good under $100 rod for c-rig?

Dobyns DX745C FH
Shimano 8.2:1
Spro swivel
1 oz barrel tungsten
Plastic Bead
Brass Clacker
Brush Hog, 10" worm, Rattlesnake or Bubble Fry.

You forgot to mention use a 7' leader

Yeah. You got a good look at the damage a 7’ leader can do on Chigger!

I prefer a mono leader because I don't think its quite as abrasion resistant as fluoro so I can break it off and get my weight back if I get hung up. I use a 3/4-1 oz tungsten with a brass clacker ( I've broken too many glass and tungsten beads) Typically a 3' leader and 90% of the time I'm either throwing a brush hog or a curly tail worm on my C-rig.

#Truth

I do the same as the above. Mono over flouro, and I have broken so many rigs off on tires that I buy the cheap walmart kits and rig them the same as I would a nicer weight kit. I feel like gold vs silver doesn't help or hurt me in the stained water I fish in, so whatever is cheapest and a half ounce to 1oz works depending on the day and wind.

I use 65lb braid, 1oz tungsten weight, SPro swivel, 4’ of 20lb InvisX for the leader, 3/0 Trokar EWG hook, and a zoom lizard. Rod is a 7’3” heavy Falcon Lowrider heavy cover jig. Reel is Team Lews Pro Z. 6.?-1.
The 1oz weight gets better distance and sinks faster. Also stays on bottom better when dragging it faster. It is essentially a weightless presentation with the line sliding through the swivel. Any rod that can handle an ounce and a half can work this setup.

One thing I'll add is that I NEVER use a polished (or even unpainted) tungsten weight on my C-rig. I've done this (once) and I had bluegill/crappie eating my weight for hours until I wised up and swapped it for a black/green pumpkin weight lol.

I use a 7'2" Falcon Jason Christie medium heavy rod, Abu Garcia STX reel, 30lb Suffiix 832 braid to the swivel. I use 1/2 or 3/4oz lead weight, 2 beads before the swivel knot. I like 12lb mono for the leader because it floats. 3/0 light wire offset worm hook, (per Mark Davis). I have recently shortened my leader to 24" after listening to Frank Scalish talk about CRig on BTL.
I think the Jason Christie line of Falcons fit your budget.

BD

Just left academy with some spro swivels, big game 15 and 12 for leader line, grande bass rattlesnakes (already have lizards and worms), 3/0, 4/0, and 5/0 ewg hooks, and a Falcon Bucoo 7’3” heavy fast 1/2 - 1 1/2 oz 10-30lb line.
I didn’t like their reels so just need to find one. Probably get a tatula.

Sounds like you’re on your way! You will get a lot of use outta that setup.

That is what I use as well!

A "long" rod would be something like the Dobyn's Carolina Riggin' Special - 804C, which is an even 8 feet, great for taking up slack you didn't think was still there.

C rig and offshore fishing is my strength.

I have used lots of different rods over the years but really like the Dobyns 734&744 with 20-25lb invisx main line, 20lb leader, 1 ounce lead egg sinkers for 5’ and deeper, 1/2-3/4 lead egg sinkers <5’, 8mm glass bead, brass clacker, #5 swivel , 3/0-5/0 owner wide gap hook and 2 1/2-4’ leader.

Those Grande worms are dynamite on a neo rig

Neo rig?

Picked up a daiwa tatula 200HS and 20lb invisx. I’m set.

50lb braid main line
Barrel swivel, bead, and carolina line protector
20lb flouro leader line
Cara Amistad 7'3" rod
Daiwa Tatula TWS 8:1 reel

I'll use your reply as an example for my question. One of the reasons for the Carolina rig is to be able to keep a lure in a lower water column strike zone, and even allow the angler to fish it faster without working up the water column. It works great for that. Another is to get the (necessary) weight away from the lure itself - with the premise being to allow the lure to have more action and a slower fall. Even a salt-free plastic bait sinks slowly. This might be exactly what's wanted. BUT THEN, a lot of anglers use flouro as a leader material, which specifically SINKS, dragging the lure down faster. I realize it's sensitive, but a 3 or even 4 foot piece of mono or copolymer wouldn't be THAT bad. (Copolymers, especially short segments, probably have little loss in sensitivity compared to a piece of flouro.) Why use a rig that allows a lure to sink slowly, then wreck that slower sink with a sinking leader?

Do yourself a favor and watch Frank Scalish go into detail on the C-rig....Arguably one of the best C-rig fishermen on the planet.

Yes, but I don’t know what I’m doing. It doesn’t matter to me if I have a slow fall or not on leader line. I do want my 3/4 or 1oz weight digging up the curiosity, and then the fish can notice the lizard trailing 3ft behind on the bottom. I fish my C-rig so slow anyways that the bait and leader line will stay on bottom no matter what line I use. I love a C-rig. I can almost possess a 3/4 fatty just thinking of throwing one.

A Carolina Rig is actually a very simple rig. Many of you guys are putting way too much thought into it. Just my opinion.

Wow-you really do like the crig!

Who has time to listen through all the BS pre-talk to get to the meat of the interview? My tolerance of youtubers and their preambles is zero. My opinion only…

Agree, make noise and bump the bottom. If you don't feel it bumping grave, rocks, etc, your spinning your wheels. If you think your in mud, move on. That feeling when you feel the sweet spot boulder, rocks, etc.

The sink rate between mono and flurocarbon line is so minor you will not notice a difference.
That is not from just guessing. Yes mono floats and fluoro sinks but I have tested both lines with identical baits in a swimming pool and watched them sink with the same hook and bait. Very slight difference.
Baits that do not float will not float just because you are using mono.

That sounds reasonable, given such a short piece of it. But, some sure do tout its sink rate when such an argument would be beneficial from a wishful thinking perspective.

17 lb floro main line, 1 oz tungsten, 2 plastic beads, swivel to a 15 lb big game leader, 3/0 offset worm hook, fluke or baby brush hog. Simple and very effective!

I do not use wide gap hooks as I have found the hook up ratio is lower. Big game leader for shock absorption on hook set since we are dealing with 3 knots.

[/quote]
Who has time to listen through all the BS pre-talk to get to the meat of the interview? My tolerance of youtubers and their preambles is zero. My opinion only…[/quote]

BTL has been around for a long time on their own website, not just youtube. If you don't like what is being said at any moment, you can drag the slider over and in effect fast forward. That show was very informative about CRig fishing. I learned a lot from watching it. Frank was very specific about his information, you should check it out.

So y’all are literally just dragging It in? Lift rod to drag, reel in slack, repeat?

Who has time to listen through all the BS pre-talk to get to the meat of the interview? My tolerance of youtubers and their preambles is zero. My opinion only…[/quote]

BTL has been around for a long time on their own website, not just youtube. If you don't like what is being said at any moment, you can drag the slider over and in effect fast forward. That show was very informative about CRig fishing. I learned a lot from watching it. Frank was very specific about his information, you should check it out. [/quote]

Its all about what works for you. I used to use braid as my main line but it was proven to me by three Lake Fork guides that if you use fluorocarbon line as your main line you will get more bites. Braid has improved since then and it makes less noise going through the rod guides so that might not be as big a factor now as it was back then. Frank said that he always uses mono instead of fluoro as his leader because it "floats" with mono and sinks with fluro. I have tested both in a swimming pool. They both sink unless you are using a floating bait, and the sink rate between the two is very slight. Again Frank said that he uses mono as a leader line then went on to say that he uses 17-20# fluoro as a leader line. That is when I quit watching the video. I was done at that point. He is contradicting himself.

ezbassin... Mark corrected him on that miss-statment.. he reconfirmed he uses mono leader.

7’6 Falcon Rig rod, Daiwa Tatula 150, 17ln Fluoro, 14lb mono leader. Fluke, baby brush hog, or stud fry.

I like to drag it by slowly, keeping rod tip down and sweeping sideways, I only lift the rod tip when working over some structure but IMO keeping the weight in contact with the bottom is the key for me.
Oh yeah, setting the hook...dont lift up, keep rod tip low and hard sweeping rod set, if you do the typical high rod tip set the weight bounces around and you dont get a good hook set.

Good info. Thank you

+1