Jet size to drill bit conversion/ motor rant

Need to jet to 174 does anyone know how to figure this up in a bit size?

Best I can figure its a .082 diameter and number 45 bit

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/...hange-size.html

Gary thanks i looked a that chart and many others that contradict each other all i know is the jet diameter is.082 and from chart to chart the bit size varies

why is every thing so far off on ur eng, seen several post????????

Im staring to think the one that built it didn't really know what he was doing to honestly answer question but Im not naming any names it has been a constant headache since i had the powerhead done, after the third trip back with the same results i gave up on getting it done there. Im no boat mechanic and don't claim to be by anymeans but it is slowly getting better. I have hopes that it will be right after the jets and timing change. I have had those hopes though after everything i have changed since then. With nearly 5k in this motor you would think it would be perfect but sometimes that is just how things go.

I'm not claiming to be an outboard mechanic but on Holley Carb jets you could not go by drill size. They had a taper inside that caused some jets the same drill size to flow differently. I would just buy new jets instead of drilling old ones. I think you would be better served in the long run. JMHO

Well jets are 30-40 each x6 I want to make sure the timing and jets make a difference before dropping more money into it. I agree that buying the correct jets is better in the long run if that actually fixes my issue. I also went and bought 2 of the factory fuel pumps today too the electric wasn't working out tested it at 3.8psi and I need 6. So with the added timing it wasn't going to workout with low fuel pressure. Ray neudecker that I have been in contact with now is the one that did all the machine work to this motor and I'm told is the 2.6l guru on yamaha's. I have more faith in his opinion than most others and he told me the timing was probably set wrong I checked it today and it was, he also said the jets needed to be bumped to 174 to work with the correct timing. If this doesn't cure the problem i have no other alternatives but to take it somewhere. I'm not tearing into the motor and that's about the only other thing that could be changed. I will find out tomorrow if I get to put it on the lake I guess.

By upping the fuel pressure you could increase fuel flow also. It depends on the setup. Also does it have any idle circuits or high speed air bleeds that could be an issue. Like I said I am not an outboard mechanic but I do know a little about auto carbs. By retarding the timing , if that is what you had to do to get it right, could also richen it up a tad. I would just try and see what it does with all the stuff you have done to it and see what it does. If it is only 1 or 2 jet sizes off it should not affect the way it runs at partial throttle. On some carbs you can cover the air bleeds or idle circuits up and affect fuel flow also. Check and make sure all gaskets are installed corectly. Just trying to think of anything that might help.

Does this motor have any sensors on it for Baro, TPS, or O2? When they were installed what sealer did they use. I have seen different sealer affect sensors in some of the strangest ways you can imagine.

This is the stuff that is getting me so mad about my motor.
Started pulling jets 5 of 6 are missing gaskets, 2 of them are missing washers.
And pulled the brand new fuel pumps out and one is busted in piece just my luck they won't have another one till Friday. Thinking I may just tear it apart and put the few diaphragms in my old housing though.

I have had those o rings come apart and stop up the jet before.

I don't know why someone put that black oring on one jet. It doesn't belong there. That jet probably was not going all the way in with that oring on there. The aluminum washers are the gaskets. The jets without a seal probably went in to far. I believe I would think real hard about pulling those carburetors apart and giving them a thorough cleaning and put a kit in each one.

Todd think your right again, the timing advance was also not set right or tightened so just one thing after another

Looks like you need to start from square one on this motor. I dont know who you had rebuild this engine but I would think long and hard about taking anything back to them.

It will work out. Don't shortcut anything. The carbs are really simple on these yamahas.

I'm sure not taking anything back there, and square one it is building carbs tomorrow, and retiming it sync everything and crossing fingers.

Ok I'm no expert but shouldn't there be a crank postion sensor here

http://www.selocmarine.com/content/manuals/0640/images/full_06404p173.jpg

I don't believe the 94 model had a CPS.

Hmmm thought i made a great find it is a 95 tlrt though don't know if that matters.

I think they started using them in 1996. It is kinda weird that the 1986 Yamaha had those same bosses.

Yea this is the old style powerhead think that it is off of a 88. I also have to wires coming from the cdi and are both the right length to reach the cps location. Ill do some more investigation into what those wires are suppose to go to.

The diagram i was looking at was for a 225 it has the cps not 150-200

Brad I have 1 bad coil on mine it has a super weak spark it just barely tingles holding it all others will jump 7/16" spark tester and that one will not. Also had a guy on BBC message me about a set of 6k701 220 special heads he will sell me for $200 may just have to jump on those.

Get those heads they are worth that easy, pm your address and ill ship you 2coils and you favorite color baits too

Okay got the carbs done nothing bad or dirty found, I am waiting on my new fuel pump to arrive to replace the busted one I bought a few days ago. Think I set the timing right looked through the manual like 30 times but still want to make sure I did it right. Pulled plugs moved to tdc1 and the piston is on the upstroke so that should be btdc1 it was set right at 21 with full advance. So I disconnected the magneto linkage moved the flywheel to 26 mark, moved magneto control to full advance stopper and adjusted the linkage to line up with mark on bottom of the flywheel. So did I actually set it right? I'm wanting 26 degrees

21 is the correct setting.

Todd he is wanting 26 not 21 that's why he drilled out jets some to handle the extra timing. Brad that sounds right to me.

Put plug on #1 plug wire ground plug turn flywheel see when plug sparks that will tell ya exactly

Well almost got it all back together a few hose clamps and fuel line routing and it should be ready to try again tomorrow. Todd I'm starting at 26 and going to see what happens if it has improved I'm thinking about setting it at 28 degrees running this much timing requires 93 octane and 0 ethanol or it will go boom. It's either going to run or blow up and I am to the point where I would be happy with either result.

I know someone selling a 300 hpdi I really would like to have

23 is all it will handle with out going boom

I know it will take 26 fine and I have seen numerous motors set up to handle 28 just have to make sure it has enough fuel

Oooooh!

The previous owner of the powerhead was running it at 26 i have had 2 very knowledgeable engine builders tell me to set it there with the jets and compression i have running 93 ethanol free and if i bump it to 28 degrees to up jet size to 182 i have to believe what these guys say they have both been building yamaha race engines longer than i have been alive.

What is your compreSsion? I still have not changed my heads.

145lbs

u are at the very max comp. already with todays gas, also race engines only run a very short perion in light weight boats, not trying to tell u how to set one up but hotrod outboards only live for any amount of time on loght boats. also u wont notice one bit of diff. between 23,26, 28 degrees of timing, unless the factory timing specs are that high i will give a couple mph to save$$$$$$$$$$

On ethanol gas and 87 your right, i have been running this thing at 21 and it won't go anywhere the person who did the original machine work to the heads and the porting to the block says it will run best between 26-28 degrees and with the 174 jets. Im not claiming it will last forever but i think it will be less stress on the motor than standing straight up with a load on it at 2500 rpms and going no where. Ray Neudecker has been building these 2.6l motors for a long time and he told me that is what it was going to take to get it to wake up. If it blows then it blows, and you guys can say you told me so. I have to listen to the one that did the finger porting and milling the heads that he will know where to set one to run best. Im going to run it like this tomorrow if its not raining. If it doesn't improve the home shot then it will have to be tore down to see what's going on.

And my boat is one of the lightest bass boats takeover 20 ft

Brad next time you talkto the guy that built your engine please ask how much they milled off the heads. I have a set I milled 100thou but I am afraid that is to much.

He doesn't remember the motor, I have already asked that question all this machine work was done 5-6 years ago. By the previous owner

Ok. You headed to the lake?

I wish it's poring here and about 40 degrees with a strong north wind, I'm waiting for a break in the rain that probably won't happen today

Todd I've been told 30-50 thousandths is plenty to cut. I was told 30 will give you between 20-25 more psi on a 2.6. My engine builder is looking into running HPDI head gaskets on mine as well he said they are suppose to be 30 thousandths thinner if so I may run them with these 220 special heads I am getting.

Thanks.

70 might be in the near future

so is the problem with hole shot or it wont run????? what prop do u have on it????? with finger porting and exh. work kill the low end hp. may need a smaller prop and spin it faster, it needs 3500 rpm or so on take off

It won't plane it hangs at 2500 and won't break over even with a 23p 3 blade very light one person when I put 200 lbs on the front it would but also was running over 7k and hd pedal left. I'm now running a 25p txp-ot4 it will get on plane every now and then but not everytime. Last weekend just me light load with 20 mph tailwind not at all. It is weird that sometimes light load it will slowly take off.

I also am confused been running it on the hose, of corse idle was too high since I moved the timing up. I idled it down to 700 like the manual shows. But setting idle screws nothing changes on top and bottom carb you can close them and it still idles the same. But if you even get close to closing the screw in center carb it tries to die. Also only plug wire that bogs the motor down is 3 and 4 it will almost die if you pull either one I moved the coils around and still 3 and 4 are the only wires the change a idle. All wires are sparking but they will all shock the hell out of your hand no matter where you hold the wire. I'm thinking may need some new wires.

Maybe I should try my other cdi box???

I hope my lead sled finally hits it Brad by the way running to town this evening to send some money your way. Also my plugs would spark but that one coil would not jump on cheapo spark tester I bought at parts store. All coils should jump a 7/16" gap with blue fire and the bad one would not do it.

I have been testing them I had 2 that you could not hear firing but could see small spark changed those 2 out with my other set and they are making a solid pop. Motor sounds a little deeper, also all plugs will now change the idle when removed

OK where is the race going to be. Three modified yamahas. Will they get on plane or not?

If my gets on plane i would be happy to race anything but a bullet or stroker

my Skeeter and my butt are to heavy to race Brad I know what boat and motor tweaks he has lol

Little bit of weight difference on the boat weights only about 700lbs or so tony.

Brad you can give me a handicap and pull 2 plug wires and we can line them up. LOL

I probably wouldn't have to i have to get it running on 6 first, i don't have much done that you don't have besides the heads that you just bought and the better exhaust divider. You will probably have the tuner on before me too. So i may need the handicap. Fishing 3 different tournament trails doesn't leave much time for pulling a powerhead off.

Headed to test it out sure hope to see improvement

Well it is somewhat better but still not right as soon as the livewells are full it won't go.

Will live well empty
[img]http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/autotopic/media/20130419_121406_zps33887e9d.mp4.html[/img]

With full

[img]http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/autotopic/media/20130419_134005_zpsbe6b239a.mp4.html[/img]

Did you check to see what the plugs looked like after running for a while?

No had to get ready for work and didn't have time, but this is the results everytime I run it no mater if I fill them first or run empty wells and add a partner right off the bat it won't plane. The only way it will is alone with very little weight. It's hard to believe the extra 200lbs of water could make so much difference. I'm missing something I have checked every coil, plug, link and sync, watched the carbs spray gas every one seams to spray the same. I'm wondering if I may be not getting enough air though. Might need to try and run it without the cowl. Or carry tools to the boat ramp and try the other cdi box. And adjusting the carbs there to try and dial it in.

If you get a chance run your motor to about 5500 RPMs for a few minutes on plane. Shut the motor off You may have to troll over to the boat ramp, that is what I do. Pull your plugs and get a good reading on them. You may have to have smaller or larger jets. I did this until my plugs were tannish color.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp?mode=nml

Gettin my boat to 5500 this time of year is the problem 5500 is right about 67 or so and in this wind is hard for me to do for a period of time might try Sunday if the wind isn't to bad.

Brad is your lower unit a 2:1 or 1.86:1?

I think its a 1.86 i have been asked that question a bunch don't know how to identify it.

You would have to remove the lower unit. Mark the prop shaft, in gear turn the input shaft two complete turns and your mark on the prop shaft should be back where it started. That would be 2:1. If it turns about 1 3/4 turns it will be a higher gear. I believe there was a 1.76:1 and a 1.86:1. The Pro V lower unit was a 2:1.

Hang in there Brad sure hope something will get better for you it sure gets old working on one all the time with no positive results.

Ill drop the lower Sunday and check the gearing, going to pull the Carbs back off and let them soak overnight just to make sure. Im thinking Sunday Im taking the cdi box and a bunch of tools to the ramp and staying there until it gets better or worse. It sounds great on the hose but almost like a different motor in the water. Wondering if i may have a air or exhaust issue too though since it changes so much in the water hhmmmmm what to do.

Trying to figure out what i have not checked or replaced and all i can come up with is cdi, stator, water pump and that's all i can think of. Need to take a aux tank too just to make sure its not a tank issue i don't think it is though because every time i check the bowls are full. Anyone have some ideas Im listening to anything.

If one of the intermediate jets(jets in bottom of bowl) is stopped up it will cause this problem.

Make sure you're not getting any water on the plugs or in the cylinders.

You dont have to pull lower to get close on gear ratio just put in gear and rotate flywheel by hand with a mark on prop to stationary mark on lower and a mark for flywheel. You should get 1.86 or 2 rotations of flywheel to one rotation of prop.

That would be easier.

K ill check this out Sunday morning before i go to work, plugs may have gotten some moisture on them had them in a walmart bag in the back storage compartment through the couple inches of rain a few days ago they didn't seam wet though. I may have to get someone else to look over the Carbs and see if that is the issue

so did u have it trimed all the way down???? it sounds like to me it has no bottom end, what prop hoe many vent holes are in it, if it runs 5500 and 67ish its probably runnin ok u can keep throwin parts at it but until u get it proped rite it may never have a good hole shot, whats the pad to prop shaft measurement, u know 400lbs is a lot of weight to expect the same power as with 1 person unloaded

I have it trimmed all the way down i have set the motor set at 3.25 below currently i have moved it from 4.5 to 2.5 below and it launches the same. I understand 400lbs is different but i can put my wife and baby in there and it won't get on plane either and that sure isn't 400lbs. Im running a txp ot4 with pvs holes have tried every combo you can imagine from all open to all 4 with 1/2 inch plugs. And it runs good after you get the nose down it will plant you in the seat until you let off the pedal. The motor will turn more than 5500 it has just been way to windy when Im out to really open it up. Last year with a 23m it would get out of the hole ok with a load but was turning 7200 with pedal left and i don't want to turn it that hard. That's y i bought this prop was to get a better bottom end and keep the rpms down some. I don't think the problem is the set up or prop since i have tried so many combos. I will go though the Carbs again to make sure i have not missed something. Today i was getting on plane with the livewells full with the wind but if i turned around into a 20mph wind is when it would just stand up. Im not ruling out anyone's ideas because i can't figure this thing out but this motor should have plenty of power with a 25p 4 blade to launch a 1100lb boat out of the hole.

Hope not but.....Did anyone else besides Ray "cut" on that block after you got it? Seen some wanna be's totally screw up a perfectly good block thinkin' more is better. Just sounds like its main purpose was for a lite weight hot rod or justa a plain 'ole screw up. I really hope this is not tha case...

Was built for a xb2003 so not really lightweight

Did you have a chance to try anything out today?

No got called into work tonight and yard duties before I leave. Can't turn down double time when you need motor work lol

Dumb question of the day, what about adding a top and bottom hole shot plate with a basketball inside the plate? Added lift and less drag just thinking out loud

Now you are just getting frustrated and trying to cover up the problems. Keep trying and you will get it running right.

And maybe try a big a$$ whale tail on it too! Nothing says speed and performance like a whale tale!

Im way past frustrated with this motor with all the money i have tied up in it and it won't plane with the 4 blade 25p. Im trying to get it looked at by someone this coming weekend that knows way more than me about yamaha motors. I think a new set of eyes may be the biggest help. Everything i have checked is within spec and don't know what else to do.

And Im sure not running a whale tail.

Must be going to see Russ next weekend. Brad you know you want a whale tail cause its sexy and you know it. LMAO

Ill pull the plug and let this thing sink before there will be a whale tail installed.
I'm going to make me a upper and lower plate for the jack plate though I don't think it will hurt anything. I know it will cut down on backwash in reverse and coming off pad.

Well guess I found another culprit today and that I have wasted a ton of money buying 93 octane. Shouldn't have believed the engine builder that claimed 140 lbs compression. 1-6 are 105 95 105 110 105 110 kinda sad when I have the highest compression heads made for this motor. Thinking complete tear down is in order.

Well I remembered wrong was told compression when built was 122-123 still a big difference in less than a years time.

Brad different gauges I have seen show at least 10-15psi difference. Did you check it with motor warmed up and also throttle wide open. But for sure the warm engine can make some difference.Looks like 87 may run a little better in it. Talk to Russ about those head gaskets like he just got for me I believe he said I should get 15-20 more psi with them.

Motor was warmed up agreed not all gauges are the same but the one with 95 was the highest when built something is going on inside I think

Very possible, it will cost you a set of head gskets to open it up and take a look and see. Were you there when they took those readings on your motor to verify those are tru and accurate numbers. I was told to check mine after about 5 hrs because it would take that long for rings to seat in enough to get a good reading.

I wasn't there just was told that Im headed back with it in the morning for him to check compression and do a leak down test.

Maybe they will find something and take care of you on it I know you don't have any hours on it to say since rebuild.

The leak down test is the most accurate. Hopefully it will be good.

I doubt ill have any good news to report and honestly imagine Im wasting time taking it back but its the right thing to do imo i just hope they will stand behind their work. It is out of warranty so i doubt it but they know i have been having issues with it ever since i picked it up. It has been nothing but a headache for the last year, so we will see tomorrow Im curious to see what the leak down shows and what has been the root cause of the problems this whole time. Its honestly my fault that it has drug out this long i didn't want to be the guy that kept bringing my boat back demanding it be fixed but i guess i should have been. Find out more tomorrow i guess.

SO WHERE R U TAKING IT BACK TOO????

The same place that built it i know Im not going to see the results i want but want to see what happens before i take it elsewhere. Honestly right now i don't have the money to pay for another rebuild so Im probably sitting out for the next few months.

Pistons and rings come with tha powerhead or did "they" put in new ones?

The pistons were used marked for each cylinder they came out of and new rings were installed number 2 was also sleeved because it had a deep scratch. The story Im told is that it had the highest compression when built now by far the lowest seams odd to me

how long has it been???? u will get some goofy reason why it is not their fault, another 3k+ same results, and im just guessing but i bet u can get a manual take it apart and do it urself and get better results and know it has good parts in it!!!!!!!!!!!! i know thats what i did!!

Im not spending another penny there i am going to let him do the test and see what happens. If any help is offered the motor has been problems since day one and they know it. I was originally told it must be a prop issue well i have tried 3 props and that wasn't the issue. Im not going to say much negative until i talk to them tomorrow in person the situation can be made right but Im not expecting that to happen. I have been wrong before and hope i am tomorrow.

Found a back up plan today vmax 200 phase 3 still on the crate controls and everything 7k

Give me a call tomorrow Brad and give me some details on what is happening with it and you should have that money anytime who knows how mail runs down here.

Can do suppose to be a boat shop by nine going to make for a short night working till 3 plus hour drive there in the am

Look at the cylinders. Could be that the rings did`nt seat.

Gary that's what I'm wondering honestly the motor has ran the same way the entire time since it was built I ran extra oil like I was told too but it's just odd that a year and roughly 25 hours they didn't seat. Guess leak down test will tell more.

Well after getting a compression test and leak down done today I am more lost than I was before. Compression all checked 120-130 on his gauge and leak down was good too. I keep getting told it is a fuel issue, even by the person that went through them twice already. I am starting to think I may need to look at the reeds though to see it something has one or more of them stuck. Or get someone else to go through the carbs. Or maybe best bet sell for what ever someone will give and stay at home and save money to get a different one under warranty.

Well it actually sounds like good news. If it was a reed valve it would pop back through the carbs. Did you have a chance to run it and check the plugs to see what they look like? You really need to know if it is to rich or to lean and go from there. In my humble unexperienced opinion.

no I have not had the chance to run it hard. I really need to find out whats causing this planing issue. mechanic said plugs looked fine that were in it. I think I may just pay someone to do the carbs and see if that helps

well im no expert but i know some, did u watch him do the test?
next u said u went to a 4 blade 25p ? what did u have on it before? i dont think a fuel issue would be just getting on plane, a 25p 4blade is like running a 26 3 blade, u need to take everything heavy out of back of boat and move some weight forward im pretty sure its a prop issue, has it alwats had this issue? just tryin to help

No it turned a 25 3 blade great with the last powerhead and i have dropped down all the way to a 23 3 blade it was better but not good i can take enough weight out with only the cracking battery half tanks and only me it will plane okay but if that is all it has then it worthless to me. I don't think its a prop issue since i have tried so many that should have ran great. I do know that the compression is good and the spark is good so that only leaves air or fuel from the front.

so i have read post nothing u have done to eng has helped much, also i dont think it is a fuel issue or it would not turn 5500+ rpm and run 67-70 mph at all!!!!!!! so that leaves the boat hull ( i.e. floor repair, wet foam, stringers cut into) or the prop that 25p 4blade is probably too much, my suggestion is find someone that has a few different styles of props and go to lake and test, i have several most fit merc or flow torque hubs, some im sure u will find something that makes u happy, i dont think i read what motor or size, im not a guru but done the same thing its almost impossible to have a moded motor to have a GREAT holeshot and blistering top end, if u want to come to metroplex u can try some of my props

It is a 200 hp and agree Im not going to find a prop to get the best of both but i really think the motor should turn this prop the previous owner had it turning a 27 and he even had picture pulling a tube around the lake. The motor will turn it if it is running right. I also don't see any hull issues being the cause i never had the issues with the last motor, i guess i could weight the boat but i don't think that is the problem being water logged, i only know of one time since i have owned it that it had enough water in it to do so and that was for a very short time while i was getting towed into the boat landing. Might have had water in it for 45min.

Also the motor will die trying to load on the trailer like it is getting to much gas and i wonder if that isn't the problem possible float filling up with gas or something. You would just have to be in it to see what it does or just doesn't have the midrange to break over decent off idle and good on the top.

well im in ft worth if u r in the aera drop me a lone we can try my props or have another set of eyes or prospective only tryin to help

motor will die trying to load on the trailer like it is getting to much gas. OK run all of the idle air screws all in and back out 1/2 turn try it, if better back each out 1/8th at a time a try untill happy. Have seen this on a Yamaha with the idle air screws backed out 2 turns motor had no bottom end.

If it was a black motor it would be easier to work on Ive got the same motor only a 97 model and yes it can be carbs mine was doing the same thing and I went through mine and it is better now not perfect because mine still bogs some while powerloading but I am hoping it was a coil that was weak that I will replace as soon as I get home from work. Mine will jump out the hole or would till coil took a dump. Just go through those carbs with a fine tooth comb and blow all holes out with compressed air. If you can find somebody with a ultrasonic cleaner they say they do an awesome job too.

When the original fuel pump ruptured it probably got pieces of the diaphram in the carbs.

Okay Gary I have a question for you on that because I agree it feels and sounds like it is loading up on mine like that but I know on my motor and I think Brads is the same as well my Screws adjust out per manual 3/4 port and 1.5 starboard so do I run them all out just 1/2 or maybe go 1/4 port and 1/2-3/4 starboard

Tony yours are different than mine because of horizontal half ill try running mine in Thursday if it is warmer also tearing the carbs down again i hear a ultrasonic cleaner is the way to go might have to make a few phone calls tomorrow to see if i can find one

Thanks for the advise Gary i have not tried running it except at factory spec, jimmy when i get done with the carbs i may take you up on he offer of trying some props too. Never hurts to try something different. Also agree with Todd could be a piece of rubber somewhere Im not seeing or getting too from the diaphragm failure.

Brad only fix one thing at a time.

I plan on that carb ceaning is next

I set all idle air screws the same. Found setting the starboard richer causes problems at my altitude: stumbling and booging. These motors are jetted way rich when new. Have seen a lot of running difference between running the NGK 7 vs 8 heat range plugs. 8 working better.

Gary my 97 model calls for and the 8's and thats what I run in it and yes I agree with you about seeming a little rich on them mine does seem a little fat on fuel side I will for sure try my idle air screws like you say on mine me and Brad have a lot of the same issues my boat is way heavier though Skeeter zx202c. When powerloading mine it spins up to 2800rpm and just hangs right there and will not do any more just seems like its loading up with fuel.

Tony do you know if your running different jets on each side with that front case it calls for a taller jet on one side

The bottom carb has bigger jets. Side to side should be the same.

Brad, You definitely have more patience than I. If it was mine I would have already pulled out all my hair or blown it up. LOL Please let us that are following this know what the final fix is.

I have plenty of hair to pull out some lol.

I don't have any alternative boss lady says I'm not dropping money on a new boat or high mechanic bills. If I wanna fish it will have to be in this boat and looks like ill just have to keep working on it. If I wasn't buying a house in June it would be for sale best offer, I want a new blazer 625 bad with a 250 sho but that is on hold for a while.

Brad I have 34mm internal jet carbs 150 on starboard side, upper and middle port side are 154 and lower port is 158. That is per Yamaha and that is what I have.

Yes sir that is what I thought. Starboard and port were different. The adjustments is different too from starboard and port that has to do with the reed location I guess but with the modded motor it make since that it may need a different fuel air mixture.

The race is back on then?

I'm not racing anyone until I can plane out I would about get beat by someone in a bass buster with a tm right now.

I think I could fish better with a bass buster. I was not running around so much when I had the 150 on it. Now I just like to run the lake.

Yeah I need to tinker more with adjustments I'm sure my motor is Kinda like Johnny Cash's cadillac I've got new style front case with CCS reeds and a late 80's model rear case of block which has better ports which are worked on some running a newer style crank with big bearings and old style rods. It should handle 7000 rpm just fine Russ said and if anybody around here would know I bet he would and I am running vertex pistons. I wish I had another prop to try on mine i want to try a 4 blade 25 I just need to get with Steve after all my bugs are worked out.

If you were closer you could try mine bet if you try a 25 txp ot4 you would launch better and have a better top but Steve would know way more than me the 25m ran a lot better on mine after he worked it it would hold the nose up more with the extra cup.

Yeah it feels like mine is running to low and needs more nose up I used Mercury's prop slip calculator and I was around 14 percent slip

Im going to meet up with spanky Saturday and let him kit the carbs and we are going to the lake afterwards To try it out maybe David will show me how to fish too

Cool maybe he can get it going for you. Never knew what happened to him he was on here all the time a few years back. I've heard lots of great things about him.

If mamma lets me spend the money i should say lol she doesn't seam to happy about more boat repair bills

I had the same issue on a merc 150, it would struggle on the low end and run like a scalded dog on the topend and it happened on 2 different occasions. First time I was trying 200hp carbs and it loaded up the bottom end but would run good on top and the second time I sucked a reed through and through and ran the same as before but would run like [censored] on the shutdown and fouled plugs real quick and became hard to start. I replaced reeds with chris carson reeds and went back to the 150 carbs and now I'm running 70 on a 18ft nitro w/ a merc 150. Hope you get it figured out.

Ok , I want to put my two cents , I have seen a lot of two strokes do what. Your talking about. No low end ,it ran great before you overhauled it ,so you know it's not the prop are gear ratio , here's what I have seen many times you still have good comp,and leak down ,the leak down shows what percentage of blow by when the piston comes up to top of cyclinder , so dose the comp. but what we have seen is that around the ports the cyclinder will be slick no hone marks ,and egg shape which you will not have any low end ,,once you get over about 25 hundred they will pick up and run...
I would take a head off and look at the port area and see if it slick looking with the piston down might even take a ring check the ring gap at the top of cyc. And as far then at the port area,,

Well i never ran this motor before it was put together bit it ran good on the last boat it was on so i just keep thinking it is something that i already had which only leaves carbs and electronics it is getting a good spark so i want to have someone go through the carbs again just to be certain really think its odd that if you bump the choke it dies without hesitation and when you try to load on the trailer it dies it just makes me think it is a fuel issue i know the carbs are getting good fuel to them just unsure if its spraying like it should or if the reeds are not right. Im going to pull the heads in a few weeks to put on a thinner gaskets to get the compression up to around 140 and will look at the ports then. But in the mean time Im focusing on fuel and air. Thanks for the ideas guys

Think i need to start a new thread titled yamaha help needed and we can all just rant and conversate on that page or maybe a separate section just for brads boat problems lol

I think I know where the name yamahammer came from because at times I'd like to take a sledge hammer and beat the s*#t out of it. I admit of all the brands I've had this one has given me the most grief. Hopefully when I get home and put that coil on mine will be good.

Hope so tony i have always had great luck with yamaha honestly never a issue at all until mine blew and since then i found out alto has to be right for them to run right lol

Brad what happened to the motor that you got the carburetors off of?

Is that motor a enricher choke setup, if so u could have a bad enricher valve which will load the bottom carb with gas and flood it up everytime and cause what you are describing

The carbs came off my original powerhead

It was scrap metal when it came apart.

Cross reference the intake part # from your old block to your new, a slight difference in intake design can be a problem to.

Did you "see" this thing run on tha 003 or were ya just told it ran good on it. Why did they pull it off? Don't like sayin' it but when it comes ta hot rods ya never know buyin' blind nowdays...........from justa 'bout anyone.

The blocks were the same the intake a reed designed changed but it will run both and a lot of people are running both.

Tlw I never saw it run he had some video of it running. He spun a rod bearing and tore it down ordered a new crank and said he just found a deal in a Mairineer super mag.

I am wondering if the carbs were the problem on the first motor.

Very possible, but the boss said im done buying parts for a few weeks so i put the cover on the boat and will just have to wonder for awhile until i get the okay from her. Only positive is that i don't have any tournaments for 3 weeks.

Well if she is like mine she knows best.

She is right need to be saving money for the down payment on our house to finalize in June that's more important than the boat running for sure. She rarely complains about any fishing expenses so im lucky. I don't blame her for wanting to stop buying boat parts for a little bit i have tied up almost 6k in motor and props in the past year so she has a valid point. May just work on other boat stuff for the time being trailer repairs, ttrimming the carpet and who knows what else that i can do to it that i already have parts to use.

man did this thread die i have been lookin hourly prayin it would come back?????

Lol nothing to update boats sitting with the cover on it till i get the okay to spend any more money on it. Will have 14 hours of double time and 8 hours of time and a half in for the week after tonight so hopefully that is on payday.

Got some good news i guess from Spanky today about anything that could be wrong with my carbs is wrong. Float heights, jet height, broken intermediate jet, gaskets in pieces, etc will load pics tonight when i get home. Sounds like it should be running better this weekend

That's good news that this could be your issues hope this fixes you up. Mines running great just need to learn how to catch fish now.

Well I'm not sure I remember how to catch fish either lol

That's great...

Considering I was told they were redone its not so good, but the fact that they are being fixed right this time is great the needles were all scratched up too I didn't post pics of them because you can't tell much from the pics. Every pic is something not set right or tore up. I'm so ready to try it out Saturday hopefully the wind won't be too bad so I can really run it.

A lot of people think that they can open up a carburetor and spray it down with carb cleaner and they are done. Looks like you got it done right this time. I am surprised you didn't find pieces of black rubber in one of the carbs.

Moved the motor back to 3.25 below bleed t&t now just waiting on the carbs. Hope the wind isn't too bad tomorrow

Have Fun tomorrow. I advanced my timing to 24 today and ran it. Really couldn't tell the difference.

I put that coil on the other day and haven't pulled the cowling off since. All I can say is it loves gas reminds me of my old evinrude gt 150. It's been great to concentrate on fishing planning on going to Fork in the morning. Good luck on yours Brad I feel carbs have been your big issue.

Tired of ranting mods please delete

Thanks tony and Todd hope it runs tomorrow May not sleep tonight.