Fuel Line Replacement

I need to replace the fuel line. I guess I had never really looked closely, but on the outboard side I was expecting a quick disconnect. But, it looks like there is just a connecter, that I’m assuming is barbed, and zip tied on. Curious if it is this way from previous owner adjustment, or if it came that way from factory. Boat is a 2015 mako skiff w/60 hp merc. To replace, I’m assuming I can pull the line off the connecter and just slide new line over with a clamp or new zip tie. But, it seems like most of the pre-made lines have quick disconnects made for certain outboards. Figured I’d ask the best way before I start pulling and cutting things...

FYI, there is such a thing as Fuel Line Zip-ties....
https://www.fuelhoseziptie.com/

I wonder how many explosions / fires on PWC's have been caused by people using regular Zip Ties on them?

That GRAY colored fuel line is the best. That old black stuff has a clear plastic inner lining and after a good while it crumbles and clogs up everything...

NO GRAY! Get ethanol approved fuel line from a marine dealer or auto parts store. DO NOT use Walmart hose.

Get the Size 3/8 or 5/16 go to marina and get new line. Some marina's have fuel line kits about 10 ft of fuel line /primer bulb/ 3 ft of fuel line. You really should think about a primer bulb if your is 5 years old. Most auto parts houses don't have Marine Grade fuel line . If you buy a prefab fuel line with quick disconnect just remove it. Don't Worry About Color !

I got the gray fuel line from a Marine Dealer when they cleaned out my whole fuel system.

Anyone have any luck with the Gates brand fuel line? I have to change mine from the bulb to the motor and I was told the Gates line is great. But, I know it isn’t “marine” fuel line. It is A-10 or whatever...rated for e10 and above the waterline.

Mopac blue and matching blue bulb. not cheap however

CADD & others: The hose clamp isn't supposed to be the sealing component. The hose barb is supposed to tightly seat into the hose I.D. creating the seal. The hose clamp is there to keep the hose on the hose barb. If you mismatch the hose and barb, you can have problems like shown in the Zip-Tie ad. I wouldn't think of using any plastic zip-tie as a fuel line restraint. The best "hose clamps" are Corbin clamps, the single spring wire clamps that we all hate and have all busted our knuckles trying to remove. They don't loosen from vibration, and if they're corrosion resistant, won't ever fail. If you use screw-band clamps, pay more and get all-stainless ones, not the auto store ones. They'll last forever.
YMMV IslandJim

12 years ago I had a fuel line issue on my boat. I replace all the lines with Black 3/8” fuel line from the Auto parts store. Napa I think it was. I ordered a OMC factory pump bulb and replaced the water fuel separator and my inline filter all at the same time. No issues since. I just replace the filters every couple years.
A buddy of mine had the gray fuel line on his boat. He started having issues. I was helping him and cut the old connection off the hose with my knife and the inside of the hose was like jelly. I think it was a Walmart type hose bulb kit. I don’t know what caused it for sure but we replaced his with the black fuel line like I did and he’s all good now to. I figured that if the line was good enough for a car it would work for a boat. So far so good.

The dealer used a short section of gray hose on mine, and it failed big time. The entire inner liner dissolved and luckily the fuel filter on the engine caught most of it. When I replaced it, I could squeeze the hose and chunks of the liner would fall out. I hope you have better luck with your gray hose. I'll always go with ethanol approved hose.