steering cable seized

Anyone have any experience with getting a stuck steering cable loose or know where I can get a used cable? The boat is near Canyon Lake. It is a 15' Terry.

Do yourself a favor and get a new cable. That's the last thing you want to break.

NEW is what youll need. The older systems had two cables, when mine seized up I removed the seized one and was good to go for years more service, the two cable system was a bad design I was told. Not sure if it applies to yours.

not sure what is bad about it unless you are talking cables versus hydraulic. All V6+ should have dual cables. Running that kind of power and having a single cable system is asking for trouble. If the single cable were to break when up on plane and running it could be disaster. Maybe could is not the right word. I know in the bass boats that I have owned it would be. Fortunately I never broke a cable at any speed much above idle. No way would I knowingly run a high powered bass boat on plane on one cable. Only once did I replace both and that is because they broke within a week each other or so I think. First one just broke and never seized. The cable with the tightest bend will normally break first.

This is on a 1985 terry with a 30 hp Johnson. It is a single cable push / pull type. I just hate to put much money in the old boat at this time. Mostly use for crappie and never get in a hurry. I was hoping for some advice on fixing it or where I could get a used one. Thanks for your help and will still be watching.

Depending on if you have a rotory helm or a rack and pinion system a single steering cable would cost you less than 200 and take no more than an hour to replace yourself

How would I be able to tell which?

Don,t remember them making a replacement cable for stick ste ering. A new complete steering system was around 150. Checkon line at West marine.com

go online and look at images and then crawl under the console and look up. Rotary is round and rack is a bar. Once you determine type look for numbers stamped in the jacket on the motor end. If you cannot find the numbers get an accurate measurement. Then did like RipInLips said. Almost forgot the complicating factor especially for someone that is not experienced. Is it the old Morse cable or Teleflex. Morse was bought out (by Teleflex I believe). Morse racks are slightly different than Teleflex. I was able to find replacements for the Morse in my 1986 Ranger. Once you figure out what type, brand, and length the fun is just starting. Now you have to determine if there is room to bend the cable between the splash well and the motor without taking the motor off. Even if you do not have to remove the motor I bet it is time to pull the transom bolts and reseal them.

Grease it...it will work loose

if you want to try this route then get on YouTube and look for videos. It is possible the cable is frozen in the tilt tube but I would bet it is frozen in the jacket. So can drill some holes and try penetrating oil in the hole but it is just a very temporary fix.

New cable. nuf said

Is it a Ezy-glide if so you can contact them and they will fix yours for under a 100. bucks.

If its corroded so much that its frozen, it needs to be replaced. I would hate to buy a used cable and go to the trouble to replace it, only to have to replace it again in a few years. Cables are not that expensive...replace it with new and have peace of mind.

NEVER EVER
Put grease on a steering cable. It will always pack up inside the cable, dry out and jam it up.
Use light oil, silicone, but never grease.

If it's just packed up grease, pull the cable out of the motor and use penetrating oil to feed up the cable. It's messy, keep at it until the brown goo goes away. 50/50 chance you can make it like new.

As per my installation instruction/manual for Teleflex 4.2 nfb steering. I service my steering cable every 3 months, using tohatsu waterproof grease on the telescopic end. I operate heavily in saltwater, never had an issue with my cable.

1. After a few hours of operation and at frequent intervals thereafter, check all fasteners and the complete steering system for security and integrity.
2. Keep all moving parts free from build-up of salt and other foreign material. This will affect their operation and create steering problems. Periodically remove the cable, clean support tube and telescopic end of cable thoroughly and lubricate with a waterproof marine grease.
3. Periodically inspect for corrosion. Any parts affected by corrosion must be replaced. When replacing hardware, self-locking hardware as originally supplied must be used.
4. Periodically inspect steering cable for cracks or other damage.
If any is found the cable must be replaced.
5. If cable is stiff in operation, it is unsafe to use and must be replaced immediately.

-End-

Tohatsu Marine Grease


Tohatsu Marine Grease is an extremely low friction lubricant designed for maximum resistance to fresh and saltwater washout. Tremendous sealing capabilities prevent contamination of vital components and provide excellent lubrication at varying temperatures.


Applications include: Tilt lock mechanisms, swivel pins, throttle linkage, steering system cables, u-joints, hinge pins, gimble bearings, coupler splines and boat trailer wheel bearings.

Steering cable on my scooter is 25 years old. It’s never seen freshwater.
It still turns like new. Never had a drop of grease put on it.

Grease has to load up in the cable. When it does it has to dry out. When that happens you’ll have a stuck cable.

Keep following that book.
Come back in two years and report.

Talking abot the telescopic end, not the cable in the jacket.

And where do you think it ends up?

You and I must have really different cable designs.

Not at all.
When you slap grease on the outside steering cable, it moves back into the tube, usually up to the first bend, where it compacts up and causes the pain.

You keep doing what you're doing. Be convinced you're right because the book said so.
I'll keep doing what I'm doing.
Check back in a year.

I won't have to, experience and time has proven to me that the way I do it works and that is good enough for me. Not only on prior boats I have owned but on my old mans rigs as well. Never had a cable problem ever, in 3 decades. Not saying your way doesn't work either as I am sure you are guided by the same thing. Anyways, good luck to ya.