Posted By: NitroUSAF
Trailer maintenance tips - 10/27/14 02:49 PM
As I read the tff forum on a weekly basis I often see things that amaze me; most of them are complaints about something related to fishing. One of the things I have noticed lately is people complaining about trailers. No I am not an expert by no means, however when you spend your adult life working on highly technical fighter aircraft and supporting equipment, you learn thing or two. So here are my top five things I think extends your trailers life; by the way I have never had a rust issue on any boat I have ever owned.
1. Keep the trailer lubed. Anywhere you have a section on the trailer that moves, lubes it. This is mainly the tongue, trailer jack and wheel bearings (lube or penetrating oil). When apply appropriate grease don’t be shy, make sure you force all water out of the system.
2. Bunk Boards – check the bolts quit often. This is easiest when you launch your boat. If you have a crescent wrench, you will always have the right size to tighten the bolt. Once you have reached a point where the bolt will no longer tighten, do not rush to change out the entire bunk board. If you are tight on money the easiest thing to do is to remove the bunk board and flip it 180 degrees. You will need to drill a pilot hole and then install the bolts in the new location. The will buy you more life usage on the bunk board.
3. Water drainage. Make sure your trailer drains water properly. Failure to drain water it the #1 cause of rust, no the manufacturer did not sell you a bad item. Don’t be lazy, crawl under you trailer and check the drain holes. Many times when they are painted or repaired the drain hole are clogged. Use a drill and reopen the holes…if needed add addition holes. One mistake people make is storing their boat in a level condition. If you want to know how much water is really stored in your boat and trailer in the off season? Take a car jack stand and lower the front of the trailer on it. Retract the trailer jack until you can place a brick or cinder block under the jack. Now jack the trailer to the max extension; remove you boat plug and keep your eye on your lower unit; you will be surprised how much water is in the trailer and the boat. If it’s off season leave it up to completely dry out, this is also important if you store your boat outside.
4. Last rust. Insect your trailer, like the step areas. If you find you have an area where you have standing water on metal, you will get rust. This area requires a drain hole. Not addressing this earlier will cause rust, no matter how good your paint job is. For those of you have a diamond plate steps over your trailer fenders, you have a rust issue and you don’t even know it. That diamond plate does not rust but it does often hide rust issues under it. It may look good, but my advice is to remove the diamond plate and inspect under it. While it is off add several draining hole, them reinstall it. Instead of rivets for reinstall, us a stainless steel self-tapping flat head screws.
5. Last, grind out rust areas early and treat them with a good water resistant paint.
Follow these steps during off season and I guarantee your trailer, you will have very little rust and it will look good.
1. Keep the trailer lubed. Anywhere you have a section on the trailer that moves, lubes it. This is mainly the tongue, trailer jack and wheel bearings (lube or penetrating oil). When apply appropriate grease don’t be shy, make sure you force all water out of the system.
2. Bunk Boards – check the bolts quit often. This is easiest when you launch your boat. If you have a crescent wrench, you will always have the right size to tighten the bolt. Once you have reached a point where the bolt will no longer tighten, do not rush to change out the entire bunk board. If you are tight on money the easiest thing to do is to remove the bunk board and flip it 180 degrees. You will need to drill a pilot hole and then install the bolts in the new location. The will buy you more life usage on the bunk board.
3. Water drainage. Make sure your trailer drains water properly. Failure to drain water it the #1 cause of rust, no the manufacturer did not sell you a bad item. Don’t be lazy, crawl under you trailer and check the drain holes. Many times when they are painted or repaired the drain hole are clogged. Use a drill and reopen the holes…if needed add addition holes. One mistake people make is storing their boat in a level condition. If you want to know how much water is really stored in your boat and trailer in the off season? Take a car jack stand and lower the front of the trailer on it. Retract the trailer jack until you can place a brick or cinder block under the jack. Now jack the trailer to the max extension; remove you boat plug and keep your eye on your lower unit; you will be surprised how much water is in the trailer and the boat. If it’s off season leave it up to completely dry out, this is also important if you store your boat outside.
4. Last rust. Insect your trailer, like the step areas. If you find you have an area where you have standing water on metal, you will get rust. This area requires a drain hole. Not addressing this earlier will cause rust, no matter how good your paint job is. For those of you have a diamond plate steps over your trailer fenders, you have a rust issue and you don’t even know it. That diamond plate does not rust but it does often hide rust issues under it. It may look good, but my advice is to remove the diamond plate and inspect under it. While it is off add several draining hole, them reinstall it. Instead of rivets for reinstall, us a stainless steel self-tapping flat head screws.
5. Last, grind out rust areas early and treat them with a good water resistant paint.
Follow these steps during off season and I guarantee your trailer, you will have very little rust and it will look good.