Posted By: richg
Inexpensive stern anchor/pole system - 05/08/10 02:53 PM
Do you like the idea of a stern anchoring pole system? Here's a low cost substitute.
It will stop your boat and position it bow first towards your target. When you're finished in an area.... while remaining in your fishing seat.... you can simply lift the anchor and move on to the next location.
Some cautions...NEVER TRAILER your boat without first stowing the anchor INSIDE of the boat. You don't want a ten lb. mushroom anchor bouncing down the highway at 70 mph. ALSO, when running your boat at high speed, always CLEAT the anchor line. Don't just use the quick-release line-snubber at high speeds. I also tie a safety knot in the end of the line, just in case.
Items that I used
10 lb. Mushroom Anchor. Any anchor that you already own can be used as long as it won't mar the boat if it swings. My anchor was measured and its dimensions gave me the correct "hang-over" length for my oak bracing.
Cleat or line gripper. I used an old snubber that I had lying around from a sailboat. A regular cleat will work, but I liked the quick connect-dis-connect feature of this style. West Marine and any good boat chandlery would carry them.
Attwood Lift n Lock anchor control system
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Lift--n-Lock--Anchor-Control-Standard
A piece of 2 x 4 for a base
A piece of Oak 1 x 3 for the extension over the stern.
Liquid nails to fortify the attachment bolts
Two "Snaptoggle BA Heavy Duty Toggle Bolts www.toggler.com
Assembly was simple enough. Bolt/Glue the 2 x 4 to the stern seat. I did have to carve the bottom of the two by four to make it fit better to the not-very-smooth seat.
I first drilled two off-setting holes through the edges of the 2 x 4. I off-set the holes so that my oak extension would not have to be carved too much to accommodate the base's bolt heads. I drilled all of the way through the 2x4 to give me marker holes for the toggle bolts.
Then, I had to drill 1/2 inch sized holes to accommodate the toggles. I was surprised when I didn't find any foam directly underneath the seat tops.
Following the instructions on the toggle boat package, I folded the toggles; slipped the units into the holes, and "sprung" the toggles back into a 90 degree orientation. After sliding the plastic collars down the shaft, I cut off the excess toggle bolt installation tabs. I loaded the seat top with Liquid Nails and carefully placed the 2 x 4 into this bed of goo. Using some longer stainless steel screws...I bolted the 2 x 4 to the toggle openings. Having used the same holes in the 2 x4 to position the toggles, my bolts aligned well. I tightened everything up and let it dry over night.
I would have preferred that the toggle tabs were stainless steel, however that wasn't available. Since I bedded the toggles into the Liquid Nails.. I don't worry too much about corrosion getting to them.
The next day, after adding a layer of Liquid Nails, I affixed the oak extension. I countersunk the stainless steel oak extension mounting screws and tightened everything down. The oak extension dimension was critical. I didn't want the anchor hanging too far over the stern, yet I didn't want my anchor bouncing on my transom.
I added the Attwood Lift n Lock anchor control device; screwed in my quick release line snubber next to my fishing seat...added a safety cleat... I was ready to go fishing.
Since my line snubber handles holding the line well enough, I am not certain that I will continue to use the "lock" portion of the Lift 'n Lock. If the lock engages too quickly, the anchor doesn't have enough slack in it to settle into the bottom. If one moves to the bow of the boat, it is possible to lift the anchor off of the bottom. The boat can drift away. Experimentation with this aspect of the rig is necessary.
I hope you can adapt this idea to your boat. If you do, and if you like its functionality, please let us all know. regards, Rich