We have a 1983 Suzuki DT140 with four cylinders. We took it out on the water Saturday and it idled just fine, but only when we sprayed starting fluid in the carbs. But when we shifted it into gear, it would go only between 10-15 miles per hour while holding down the front lever down that was connected to the carbs. But when we idled, it would revv up to high rpms. Also, some of the Carbs on it were very cold, and a couple were warm. We added oil to the gas and the oil reservoir to see if the oil pump was working, because the motor was sitting up for a couple of years. Do you think that the oil just fouled up the plugs? Or what? Any suggestions?

Take it into a shop now. Sounds like carbs are gummed up. Do not shoot anymore ether/starting fluid in there unless you want to burn a hole in the pistons.

Sounds like the cool carburetors aren't getting fuel. Have had the same problem with the 90 Johnson on my pontoon. I use the bass boat and the pontoon doesn't get used that much, since the kids don't come down that often anymore. I have had to take one off and clean the fuel bowl float needle valve a couple of times in the last couple of years when I would get lax and break my pattern of at least starting it up once a week or so. Acted the same way. It would start up immediately and idle fine but bog down and barely run under a load, if one or more carburetors was not getting fuel, due to a stuck float needle valve.

If there is a drain plug in the fuel bowl take it loose to see if the carburetor is getting fuel. If no drain plug, you can take the covers off and look in the throat of each carburetor while working the throttle and running the motor. You can tell which is not getting fuel spray. If that's the problem and it's anything like a Johnson, it's a simple job to take it off and clean. However, there's a bucket full of bolts holding the cover and everything on. Using an electric drill driver to remove/replace the bolts it takes me about an hour but that's with it hanging over the water. The hardest part is getting that blasted linkage to snap back in place. Can't get my fingers in there. Of course getting old and blind doesn't help!

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Illegitimis nil carborundum - See'ya on the horizon!

_Hey A1Fisher: When 2 Cycle engines set up for more than a couple of months they tend to develop Gumming in the carbs from fuel/oil residue/varnish. The number one problem with 2 cycle carbs is the emmulsion tube in the bowl gets clogged and it wont atomise or distribute fuel propperly after a carb sets up for 2 years with fuel in it you can just about be certain it has clogged Fuel Jets as well.

_The best thing to do is take the carbs off...get you a Bucket (With Strainer) Of Barrymans "Chem Tool" Carb Cleaner from Auto Zone...ect. Soak the carbs over night and get a rebuild kit from a Suzuki Dealer then rebuild the carbs making sure to follow the Tech Manual on resetting the carb bowl needle valve floats. You can most likely get a Clymer "Suzuki 140" Engine Manual from your dealer. It will simplify the process if you dont regularly do that type of engine maintenance.

_As J Steve says..never spray Auto Starting Fluid into a 2 cycle motor!! It contains Ether which can in fact burn up a piston and score clylinder walls...you're supplying a Very Hot Burning... Hi Octane fuel... without a propper oil ratio. Kinda like putting racing fuel in an Air cooled Lawnmower engine!!

_Make sure to use a "Ring Free" fuel addative to loosen Carbon Deposits/Build Up on the Piston Rings before starting to use the Engine back on the water. Add some "Sea Foam" fuel stabilizer to the Gas Tank if you have a large ammount of 2 year old fuel in the boat tank??

_I would also take the time to change the Lower Unit oil and lube the steering head on the motor mounts as well as your Steering Cables. Bass Pro has these products and some are available at your local Auto Parts Dealers or Marine Supply.

_Good Luck Getting That Motor Back On The Water and Catch A Big'un When You Do Yall!!

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