Anyone had any experience with Bob Machine Shop Nose Cone installed on their engine. Go to the Coast frequently and looks like this would be a good addition to my 150 Yamaha.

Says will really help when you have to raise your engine due to shallow water.

If you have had this mod done - looking for a shop in the DFW area that can do the work.

try texas machine, or bobby v

are you wanting to add the low water pickup or just the nosecone?

It also causes a lot of problems with water pump picking up trash that gets in the cooling system. Mainly on the ramp when loading or unloading.

all statements very true.

bob's does a good job. another option is www.low-h2o.com
titus does the best lower unit mod's on the planet!

Cruiser, send a pm to TLW. His buddy does quite a few nose cone installations, and I'll bet money his are as good as you can get. His are TIG welded and he uses self etching primer before painting, so his finish is good for the long haul. He's been doing them for years, and his materials are only top quality.

Just fyi, I run a 200 EFI, and I have the top 4 (of 8) water inlet holes on each side of my LU plugged. I can run my engine higher than the prop will run without slipping without pressure problems. Unless you're running a surfacing prop, that would probably work for you.

We use them all the time for tunnel hull and bass boat operations. For the flats get the nose cone with the intake holes on top of the bullet. That way, 95% of the mud/silt/sand will not enter the cooling system. WWWWWaaaaaayyyyyyy better than the one with the intake holes at the bottom. Unless you want to drag race. then holes at the bottom is a must.

Who is "TLW"??

TLW is a member of this forum.

But like was stated above contact Texas Machine Works they weld aluminum everyday and are VERY good at it. I know Ronnie over there had a couple of those nose cones with the holes on top too.

Hey, there are lots of great dealers in Texas that can install our nosecones. You also have the option of sending it in to us and we can do a factory install. As some members talked about, we have quite a few different style nose cones, Bigfoot (holes on bottom only), combo (holes on top and bottom, and shallow runner (holes on top only) being some of the more popular ones. Check out our webpage : www.bobsmachine.com to see more. Feel free to email or call me directly : Steven@bobsmachine.com or 813-247-7040

(not all styles are on this catalog page, but gives some ideas)

Call me an idiot for asking, but do these things just slip on over your factory gear case. I get that it probably isn't THAT simple, but just wandering. Sometimes there is a lot of trash in the river especially after a rain and I have trouble with it getting stuck on my intake while on plane. Bottle wrappers, leaves, misc pieces of plastic etc, whatever washes down from Dallas.

Nosecones are not for most boats. For a tunnel hull that needs the higher elevations the lower unit is a good thing. Also for light weight high speed boats they give more control and allow those higher speeds.

For most bass boats they will either slow you down a little or add nothing as far as speed.

To put one on you cover the regular water intakes, sand the paint off the front of the lower and weld the nosecone in place. Most people just tack weld it just to hold it solidly in place. Then some fiberglass filler, sanding sanding sanding to blend the two pieces into one and repaint. Then the top gets a hole drilled in the lower unit and a hose mate the lower to the nosecone for water pressure.

I've run a nosecone for a couple years. It can wear out an impeller a bunch faster than a normal lower unit if you run it hard in shallow muddy water but I have not had any problems with it getting the intakes blocked. Mine is a CLE.

I have heard a LOT of people say it makes no difference if you run a nose cone on a boat that will not go over 80MPH and in my opinion it does! Not in speed but in general control of the boat at slower speeds. I could turn quicker, sharper and with better control with a nose cone than I could without one. I swapped lower units with my brother that didn't have a nose cone and I hated it! it required so much more steering to get the boat to go where I wanted. A nose cone gives you a bigger rudder to turn with and it does make a difference even at idle speed.

i know that bob's does a great job. and is sufficient for most of the market.
but, for you ultimate high performance guys, the ones that titus does at low-h20. you'll notice the nose cone's he does are fully welded. he cuts off the nose of a standard case and welds on a new (all welded) only slightly filled with "filler" all water intakes are done internally. No, outside crossover water line like the bob's.
titus also does some killer skeg mod's and cavitation mod's for different handling characteristics.
just an FYI.

Well boys and girls I run a tunnel hull with an ss prop that will to 6" of water on plane. Not exactly the most shallow that can be got out of one, but still skinny water. There aint much in the water concerning the lower unit area when on plane but thanx to the shallow blaster it keeps water at the prop. 6" of skeg below the hull when on plane, not much prop at all. This is a 2072 alumacraft.