If you've ever had trouble with a dead cranking battery after a long day on the lake, this is the product that you need. Tournament Saver Pro is a push button jumper system that eliminates the need for jumper cables or even getting out of the driver's seat. This product is hard-wired in your boat's battery compartment and is at the ready with just the push of a button. To check it out visit the web site: tournamentsaverpro.com
If you have one already, let us know what you think.

For more information call Eric Wendeborn at 254-216-9578

Does it disconnect the trolling motor from the trolling motor battery it is connected to? If not, the system could cause a short in MinnKotas that use US2 sonars.
John

How? We have tested it for over two years and have had no problums

Which trolling battery does it connect to?

Would not want a charged deep cycle trolling motor battery being expected to directly wire "jump" a dead cranking battery. Would cause deep cycle to try to supply high currents to recharge a dead cranking battery as well as start a high current motor, high currents that deep cycles are not manufactured to supply safely without being damaged internally.


In a true emergency, typical small and long wire jumper cables actually tend to help limit the high current drain protecting the deep cycles as the connection and wire size adds needed resistance allowing the dead Cranking battery to partially recharge after a few minutes.

When using jumper cables (or this device) in an emergency jump of a cranking battery ,it may be needed to get into the bilge area 1st and turn off/disconnect the trolling motor power breaker to protect the trolling motor transducer from being shorted and damaged.

I agree that you need to turn off/disconnect the trolling motor power breaker to protect the trolling motor transducer from being shorted and damaged.

I found the price....$249.00

Read the post about wiring configuration and it explains the circuity involved in the US2 configuration. I have been custom building for customers this type of setup for about 5yrs, but I use a method that disconnects the trolling motor circuit while paralleling the batteries, all with the push of a button.
John

$249???? Is this product anything more than an inexpensive radioshack relay, momentary switch and some wiring?

To check it out visit the web site: tournamentsaverpro.com and see for your self. This product has been NMMA tested and passed it's simply peace of mind for you Pro Anglers that fish to the last second. How much would you pay for something like this were a new company and would like some feed back.

In defense of the system, yes. I don't believe Radio Shack sells a relay that will handle the amp load of a outboard starter draw. Also looking at several feet (I custom cut) of battery cable to use as jumpers. Now, with that said, I been custom building this setup for several year and I doubt one system is a duplicate of another -- lots of different ways to skin a cat -- (no it's not as pretty with the nice box case) for a little more than 1/2 that price.
John

Just use a Blue Seas battery selector switch with a TM battery. Simple setup, just need switch and the cables and you are set.

Awhile back, I bought an extra battery and the Yandina Combiner 100 and made the push-button remote start assist that Yandina has plans posted on their web site.

This setup works for me and since I can read wiring diagrams and make my own electronic boxes I can save a bundle of money.

http://www.yandina.com/c100InfoR3.htm

This is what I know. I have a 2009 Stratos 201 evolution with a 250 mercury and a 36 volt min. trolling motor. I run a 1197 hummingbird at my console and 797 at bow. I have this installed on my boat and have used it several times. I have had ZERO problems of any kind as of yet. It has not affected my trolling motor or my graphs. I have also installed 20-30 of these units on boats and have not heard one negitive thing about them yet.

I know there are several ways to skin a cat but in my opinion this is one of the best ways to skin this cat.

Love mine and hope to see more out there.

I've got one and have used it several times without problems on my us2 sonar so I don't see the problem, with electricity if it's going to short or damage something it doesn't pick when to damage, it will damage the first time the component is hit. So I'm not understanding your talk about damaging the us2. Please don't refer me to a website just explain since you know.