Is this a new problem? How long has it been going on?
Just bought it a month ago. Seems to run fine
1. If boat is new, return to dealer for fix.
2. If boat is used and you have a analog tach, there is small pulse rheostat screw on the back. Note what setting it is at, then rotate it several times through all settings and return it to it's original position. The contacts tend to get some corrosion on them causing tach not to read correctly.
3. If you have a digital tach, I'd first begin by checking/setting engine height.
![[Linked Image]](https://texasfishingforum.com/forums/pics/userpics/2022/03/full-47849-131432-iuz1m7.jpg)
1.) Level the boat. Place a level under the pad of the boat. Adjust the trailer jack up or down till boat is level
2.) Level the motor. Place the level on the cavitation's plate, and trim the engine down till it's level
3.) Measure from the ground to the pad, Write the measurement down
4.) Measure from the ground to the center of prop shaft, Write it down.
5.) Deduct the two measurements. You want the prop shaft 3 1/2" below the pad of the boat.
6.) Adjust the jack plate up or down, paying close attention the water pressure and max. engine rpms.
7.) On lighter hulls with low water pickups, running at a neutral trim angle is best. To find the neutral trim angle, simple turn the ignition key on when you have set the engine at level. The needle will be pointing to a neutral position. If needed mark the trim gauge for future reference.
4. If none of the above fix's your problem, try borrowing a 24P prop and see what kind of RPM you get at WOT and trimmed out.