I'm looking to upgrade my 18' G3 alluminum to a 24v trolling motor. Besides another battery and new harness/upgrade to a 3 bank charger what else do I need?

Whats wrong with the current harness? All you will need is a jumper wire to fit between the 2 batteries.

Does the wire that runs up to the trolling motor plug need to be upsized?

What size are the current wires?

No idea. Whatever came stock

The wires will be marked 4, 6, or 8. I just went 12 to 24 (70#) and I have 8 gauge in mine.

Really need to know whats there before you can start thinking of upgrading.

you will need a new breaker, probably a 50a. but check what the tm requires.
be sure to get one you can manually trip, use it as a switch when charging batteries.



check what size wire you have now, if not 6ga. I would recommend running new.
8ga. will work but you have a lot more efficiency (longer battery life) with the heavier wire.

plugs work but I always hardwire with a heavy connector up front, plugs corrode, connection is not the best and
they can get hot.




https://www.amazon.com/AURELIO-TECH-Universal-Connector-Electrical/dp/B0129E1KF8/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2ATYA0SL7FWJU&keywords=heavy+12v+connector&qid=1645364322&sprefix=heavy+12v+connec%2Caps%2C1282&sr=8-8

Alright I've ordered my new 80lb Fortrex (apparently the ultrex doesn't exist at the moment) two new batteries/3 bank charger and 6 gauge wire with a 60 amp breaker. So it doesn't like I will be able to run new 6 gauge wire in the hull because Upon trying to pull the existing 8gauge out I found there's snag somewhere. My only other option is to run it up the side of the gunnel inside flex conduit attached with those plastic fasteners. Could this be an issue? All my connections will be inside the back and front of the boat since I will be hard wiring it.

I just pulled mine thru the middle, lays in the keel.

run it however you can, that snag is probably a wire tie or could be the flotation foam got around it

I did this on my boat a few years back. You will also need a hydraulic crimper to attach the connectors. Unless you are Hercules. I'm not...thus the hydraulic crimper.

Aggie, this is the second time in just minutes that I've seen you dishing out misinformation. You must live in a very small bubble!

I can crimp some massive cables (properly) - WITHOUT the necessity of a hydraulic crimper. Granted, it's not advisable to go past #10 with a hand crimper. Here's the "what you don't know about" that works great but doesn't cost much. A key to success is to place the crimper in a vice and slowly apply pressure to close the crimp. Striking with a hammer is less predictable. Be sure to add shrink tubing to the wire before crimping the connector. This will allow for a professional-quality result that's insulated as well.

Non-hydraulic crimper for heavy gauge wire

While the Anderson connectors are first class, the crimps do require a dedicated crimping tool made just for Anderson connectors. It won't be cheap.

Very cool. I learn something new every day!

I bought this and it works great.