I've had great luck pulling bluegills out of the water just using a cane pole but after hooking a few bass and losing tackle, I think I want to change up the technique and equipment a bit so that it's just up to me not straightening the hook out or breaking the line.

Here's what I'm thinking:
Using a catfish rod/reel with a floating Santee rig with a 3oz no-roll sinker so when I hookup, the fish would get pulled down instead of straight up before the reel starts pulling the no-roll sinker up.

So here's the setup: main line - 3oz no-roll sinker - rubber buffer - speed clip - #8 swivel - 36" 6lb mono leader - 2x 2" floats 1' apart - baited hook.

Anyone tried something so goofy?

I keep it very simple. 5' Ugly Stick Combo. Six pound test line. Size 8 cricket hook with a small sinker. Oh yea live night crawlers. You can also take a bobber along as well.

Light spinning rod with small spinning lures. Also a 3wt Flyrod.


Side Note: Also what Chuck said. Keep it simple.

I'm not an expert (yet) like the previous posters but here is my 2 cents.

The rig you described is pretty heavy for these sunfish. I'm guessing you would never even feel a bite with a weight that heavy. And the fish would probably feel the weight and spit your bait. I did have someone recommend a similar rig though. They said to use a splitshot above a floating jig head (didn't know there was such a thing). Same idea as your Santee Cooper rig but much lighter.

Nothing more exciting in my opinion than float fishing. Slip float, bobber stop, light line, and small jig heads. Tip with any of the Gulp Alive products. Or worms.

Or a dropshot works well too. Inline spinners like rooster tails are good. Small jig heads with Bobby Garland soft plastics.

And as far as losing tackle due to catching bass, I rarely have that issue. I landed a 3lb bass just last week on the slip float rig above.

You may just want to stay with the lighter tackle of your cane pole, but add more line. I like fishing without a reel and developed this method to keep from breaking off. You might enjoy it.

I think you'd do better with the same or a bit heavier cane pole, but with a bass style drop shot rig. A heavy enough drop shot weight to get it down and keep it down. No more. A small, stout drop shot hook. Maybe a superfine hook. Should be the ticket.

K.I.S.S.

There wasn't a day this year I didn't catch at least 30 fish that included sunfish, crappie, perch and bass.

1. I don't jig off the bottom but cast in all directions, at various depths and to different shorelines. If I didn't have a boat, I would walk & cast.

2. Only use light braid and med. or light action rods

3. Only use light ball head jigs of different weights and hook sizes to match the soft plastic lures I cast.

4. Retrieve slowly with pauses and slight rod tip twitches. Some lures can be used under a float.


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I do not target sunfish/Bluegill. What ever advice you get from these guys I would listen to it. They know how to catch "Monster Sunfish"!

I fish a 5 1/2 foot ultralight pole spooled with either 2lb of 4lb line. My favorite way to fish is out of a float tube and I nearly always use an unpainted jig hook tipped with a piece of crawler. I fish light so the jig hooks I use run from 1/100th of an oz to 1/64th of an oz. If I can't get them to hit the jig hook I will fish weightless with a wire hook and just let a piece of crawler drift down naturally. This works very well on my favorite lake.

I agree with all the above. I would suggest using a hi-vis 2-4lb line. I really like hi-vis green and hi-vis orange, they allow those very light taps when your hook is being investigated to be easily detected. Cricket hooks are helpful to remove from the fish because it is easy to unhook if the hook goes to deep. Have fun and enjoy.

Now see this is where I have to ask a question that probably deserves its own thread...

You have your people that insist line shyness is a real issue, and then you have your braid for everything people. Then there are the diameter is more important than color people, and vice versa. What is the real deal here? Do you get more bites with certain types/colors/weights of line or what?

David, glad you asked the questions about line. If I didn't catch as many fish as I do in the lakes I fish weekly, some would say I'm guessing or talking bull. Numbers don't lie and are proof that certain ideas and beliefs have the highest potential of catching fish when fish are located.

Beliefs that have served me:

Line color brightness from way back was found not to bother fish. Stren chartreuse line is bright and I never had a problem getting fish to strike - even small Rapalas worked slowly on the surface. I've used brightly colored braid - no problem.

Line diameter and softness is key getting lures to move the way you want them to. The smaller the lure/ the lighter and softer the line. Braid again allows the working of 1/24 oz. jigs or 3/4 oz Hopkins Spoons or skirted jigs. 8# test/2# diameter for the light stuff; 20# test/10# diameter for heavier lures and heavy cover.

Your question: Do you get more bites with..... doesn't need to end with a question about line if all the above is considered. Note the line (which faded from dark green to a light green from wear) in some of the examples below:




note clear tail:


Crappie Spin:


wacky-rigged plastic stick:


GY Kutail Worm and 1/24 oz jig:


Weedless/ stump resistant:


...all using light small diameter braid and light ball head jigs. Some ideas to consider regardless fish species. I haven't used mono or fluorocarbon line in years.

Even this little guys couldn't resist:

Forgot to mention:

As with any lure, type and speed of retrieve is crucial !

Late response but thanks for the post. I think you and I see eye to eye on this. Perhaps I'll tie on a flouro leader less often and go straight braid. Worked today with no issues. Some of my closed face trigger spin reels don't take braid so still going nylon with those. You're a wealth of information, thanks again.