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Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14013909 05/28/21 09:42 PM
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David Burton Online Content
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Originally Posted by TexY3TI
My boat only runs 2 batteries...a cranking battery and a deep cycle for running electronics.

The charger on board is a 2 bank.

I’ll go by a volt meter today and start checking.

I keep it plugged in my garage as soon as I get it home because I read that’s what is healthiest for battery life because these chargers are supposed to know when to charge and when shut off.

Ive never blown any fuses so I don’t think I’m overloading the battery when I operate my boat, and I haven’t made any modifications to the boat except moving the fish finder to the front when I bought a Garmin for the console.

Other than that it’s pretty much factory...

Also, I did have 1 NOCO charger go bad on the boat 1 year ago and Cabelas warrantied it for me and replaced it for a brand new one.


I think I see a part of a different problem here... Your setup appears all wrong. What "electronics" do you have hooked to your deep cycle battery? If you are talking graphs, those are designed to be a part of the Cranking battery (or dedicated circuit away from the Trolling Motor. What "Group Level"
are your batteries?


David Burton
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Moritz Chevrolet - 9101 Camp Bowie W Blvd, Fort Worth, TX - Monte Coon (817) 696-2003
Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: David Burton] #14013927 05/28/21 10:04 PM
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TexY3TI Offline OP
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Let me answer this with two statements...

1. I said my electronics are running on my deep cycle because I made that assumption. I’ve never changed the wiring to the battery, I just hooked up to the cables that are available at the front for added fish finder.

It’s wired however the manufacturer wired it...so if it’s standard to the cranking battery, then I misspoke.

2. I’m not sure what you mean by “Group Level”

I will look into that and get back to you...

Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14013932 05/28/21 10:08 PM
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Group Size LxWxH (inches) LxWxH (cm)
Group 24 Batteries 10.25 x 6.8125 x 8.875 26 x 17.3 x 22.5
Group 27 Batteries 12.0625 x 6.8125 x 8.875 30.6 x 17.3 x 22.5
Group 31 Batteries 13 x 6.8125 x 9.4375 33 x 17.3 x 24
Group 34 Batteries 10.25 x 6.8125 x 7.875 26 x 17.3 x 20

It should probably be one of these, and it should be printed on the battery somewhere.

As a follow-up... What are they symptoms of your battery going bad?

DKB

Last edited by David Burton; 05/28/21 10:09 PM.

David Burton
2015 Skeeter FX 21 +Ultrex +Helix 12 (x3) +Mega360 +MegaLive
Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14013936 05/28/21 10:14 PM
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After 24 hours, go wiggle the pos and neg leads from the charger. Maybe even disconnect the neg and reconnect after a few seconds. The red light will often turn green. My theory is that sometimes my charger will hover right underneath the voltage required to go into long term float charge mode and will instead kinda keep cooking the battery. Ive found I can either turn wiggle the connections that "should" be green after 24 hours or simply unplug it.

I like the charger, but I think this is an issue with these chargers since it has happened on 2 out of 2 of mine. But I dimply don't leave my batteries plugged in indefinitely. It's unnecessary once they are charged.


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Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14014274 05/29/21 02:58 AM
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It’s probably your charger.


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Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14014894 05/29/21 09:36 PM
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I was having a similar issue on My old boat. I was told by a mechanic that leaving your automatic charger on can heat cycle the batteries and can slowly evaporate the acid out of a standard lead acid battery. Now I charge them as soon as I get home from the lake, unplug the next day, then top them off before I go out again. I’ll recharge periodically if it’s cold outside, or if I haven’t been out for a while. It seems to be helping.

Also, make sure the outlet you’re plugging your charger into is grounded. They can do weird things if not. The onboard charger on my Skeeter was causing my jack plate to shock me! Someone told me to check the outlet to see if it was grounded. It wasn’t, and when I plugged it into a grounded outlet it was fine. You can get an outlet tester cheap at the hardware store, it just plugs into the outlet. I’m not saying that’s the problem, but it couldn’t be good for the charger, or the boat.


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Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14017011 06/01/21 02:00 AM
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Okay...got some information.

First battery was an Interstate SRM-27

Noticed my trolling motor was barely running after the NOCO showed green light for full charge.
Took the battery to Autozone to get it tested and purchased a Duralast 27DC to replace it because I had a highschool tournament the next day...this all happened 8 months ago.

The Interstate battery ended up testing bad, Cabelas replaced it and I decided to keep it as a backup in the event I had an emergency.

Fast forward to last week...

Same thing started happening, I noticed my trolling motor was not pushing at all and my charger was green lighting that it was fully charged...took the Duralast back to Autozone and it tested bad, warranty replaced it for free...

I put the replacement interstate back on the boat and charged it fully, I have a green light from the charger and I hit it with the multimeter and it showed 13.57 V.

Now I need to figure out how I’m going to test the charger itself. The battery is fully charged.

Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14017421 06/01/21 03:50 PM
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If you have a halfway descent multimeter , use it in the amp mode. Hook the amp meter in series with the positive lead from the charger (+lead from from meter hooks to the positive lead of the charger and the other meter lead hooks to the battery.

If the battery is fully charged there should be very little current reading from the meter. If the battery is fully drained then the amp meter should read close to full current that the charger will supply. As the battery charges the current on the amp meter will start to drop. Once the battery is fully charged according to the amp meter disconnect the charger from the battery, check the voltage on the battery. It should read around 13 to 13.5 volts immediately after the charge. After the battery has set for a few hours after the charge, the voltage should settle to around 12.5 volts or so.

Now to check for parasitic current draw when everything is supposedly turned off . Leave the positive lead of the battery charger disconnected. Disconnect positive lead for the accessories and connect the amp meter. The amp meter should read very low current, less then 10 milliamps. If your in the amps on the amp meter then something is still on or you got a short in the electrical,

Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14055908 07/08/21 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TexY3TI
Okay...got some information.

First battery was an Interstate SRM-27

Noticed my trolling motor was barely running after the NOCO showed green light for full charge.
Took the battery to Autozone to get it tested and purchased a Duralast 27DC to replace it because I had a highschool tournament the next day...this all happened 8 months ago.

The Interstate battery ended up testing bad, Cabelas replaced it and I decided to keep it as a backup in the event I had an emergency.

Fast forward to last week...

Same thing started happening, I noticed my trolling motor was not pushing at all and my charger was green lighting that it was fully charged...took the Duralast back to Autozone and it tested bad, warranty replaced it for free...

I put the replacement interstate back on the boat and charged it fully, I have a green light from the charger and I hit it with the multimeter and it showed 13.57 V.

Now I need to figure out how I’m going to test the charger itself. The battery is fully charged.

Did you ever get this figured out?
When you charged the new battery to 13.57 Volts, did you do that with the charger in question? If so, that charger was working as a battery won't be 13.57 after attempted charging with a "bad" charger.

Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14055929 07/08/21 04:13 PM
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batteries

plural


"..The pleasantist angling is to see the fish
Cut with her golden oars the silver stream,
And greedily devour the treacherous bait.
Bill Shakespeare





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Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14055943 07/08/21 04:27 PM
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Sorry it had to come to that expense, but that's better than replacing bad charger + batteries that went bad due to said bad charger.

Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: TexY3TI] #14056987 07/09/21 04:26 PM
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So what is the best battery for just cranking and electronics ?

Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: Crick] #14057106 07/09/21 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Crick
So what is the best battery for just cranking and electronics ?


If funds allow, I would run a lithium for all electronics and a 31 AGM for cranking and all other accessories (livewells, bilge, nav lights, etc). That being said, I run a single Interstate 31 AGM to power 3 Carbon 12's and Livescope along with accessories and have had no issues with power. If you go AGM just make sure it is a 31 series.


Go Tech
Re: Boat Battery’s keep going bad... [Re: RedRaider3933] #14057298 07/09/21 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRaider3933
Originally Posted by Crick
So what is the best battery for just cranking and electronics ?


If funds allow, I would run a lithium for all electronics and a 31 AGM for cranking and all other accessories (livewells, bilge, nav lights, etc). That being said, I run a single Interstate 31 AGM to power 3 Carbon 12's and Livescope along with accessories and have had no issues with power. If you go AGM just make sure it is a 31 series.

You run a Livescope with Lowrance Carbons?

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