Hi all -

I've searched around and there's alot of good info on battery setup. What I'm noticing though is I couldn't find one that fit my specific question. I also learned that pics help as well as motor and boat info

So here's what I've got: A 93 Skeeter with a 94 Merc (90 hp). I have two live wells, HB fish finder, and MK 45lb thrust TM. That's about it for accessories other than lights and bilge.

What my issue is is starting. I replaced the plugs and made sure the batteries were charged. She hesitates at first start (usual), but then hesitates after leaving from fishing a spot.

Primer bulb is good, fuel is good, and yes it's carbureted. I have 2 deep cycles and after reading some, realized I probably need a straight cranking and maybe one deep cycle. As you can see, I don't have a lot of room for another dedicated start battery as my two bank charger is in there as well. Also, there are a lot of things hooked up to each battery. the TM is on it's own separate from the starting motor.

I say all that to ask this, if I get a starting battery, what all can I hook up to it? Also, should I keep the deep cycle and hook everything up to that? And if y'all have recommendations on batteries that'd be great too. The wal-mart was convenient at 4:30 am so that's what I got.

get a deka dual purpose grp 27, has more than enough juice for what you have.

I run 3 garmin 9", livescope as well as all my other stuff on mine and never a problem with power, cranks a 95 mercury 200 xri/efi every time.

cost about 135.00

middle of the second box down is the one you want.


https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Marine-Master-Spec-Sheet-0194.pdf

Thanks for the info. Where do you get your’s from? Closest thing I found was Dallas which is 2 hours away

The "starting" batteries most of us run on bass boats are actually dual-purpose batteries. They have the high-amp capability for starting, and some deep-cycle ability for other devices.

Traditionally, everything except the trolling motor would attach to your "starting" or "main" battery. The ONLY thing that should be on the trolling motor battery(batteries) is the trolling motor, and of course, the charging connections for each trolling motor battery.

Based on your boat's electrical load, hop's expectation seems accurate. AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries typically have good dual purpose capabilities. Sam's Club sells a line of AGM Marine batteries (Duracell Platinum AGM). The Group 27 battery is $160 and has some serious power that should be all you need. This type battery is sealed, so no need to ever add water. With proper charging, many get years of use out of such batteries, so the price isn't so bad when longevity is considered. The one I mention is very similar to the one Hopalong pointed out.

sartin marine in yantis has them, hydrodynamics in quitman has them.

where are you located?

the duracell are made by deka

Thanks for the info gentlemen. Sounds like two good dp AGMs are in order here. One I will have dedicated for the trolling motor (12v) and the other for everything else. I'm not sure why he had them hooked in parallel, but it sounds like I can probably get rid of that wire. Everything is simple on the boat electronics wise, it just gets frustrating when I spend extra time at the dock to get it to crank, while I'm watching all these other EFI motors dump and go. One day I'll get there, but for now, this one floats and goes from point a to point b.

Hop, I'm down in Tyler so Quitman/Yantis aren't too far off!

Some boaters swear by AGM for all applications. I don't necessarily agree with that as the AGM is strong in some respects that have no advantage for deep cycle use. For deep cycle use, Amp-Hours or Reserve minutes are king. The deep cycle batteries you have can be economical for trolling motor use. I thought you just bought it/them, and if that's the case, you could just run with that for the trolling motor. For starting, most will say the best all-around option is the AGM.

I’ve had them about a year. Never had any problems with TM or anything else (other than fish finder bumping off when I start the motor). I had always read to keep the batteries the same if possible. Thought that meant like brand and stuff and try and replace them at the same time. Maybe that was for is you’re running two for TM and what not. I don’t want to, but I don’t mind buying two of the same this time. Especially since I know the DC aren’t the best for setting now. Probably didn’t help that I don’t always take it home and charge them after I go out either.

Keeping the batteries the same means "as a set for an electrical system". You have TWO independent electrical systems: 1) trolling motor, and 2) "everything else".

The suggestion to "keep batteries the same" means two or three of the same model battery when the trolling motor is 24V or 36V. Many boats have a good AGM for the main battery, and then a "same" set of two or three trolling motor batteries - batteries that may be non-AGM, or even Lithium Iron Phosphate. The two systems know nothing of each other; they are simply in the same boat.

If you go AGM, you need a charger made for AGM’s, another $$$ if you don’t currently have one.

Most decent modern chargers support both flooded cell and AGM. It's gel-cell that many do not support.

I thought gel cell and agms were the same, do you have a brand example of each? Like for example is the X2 a gel cell or an agm?

Yes, near the top of this thread, hopalong posted a product line pdf from East Penn Battery. It shows models in their AGM line, and products in their gel product line. If they were the same, they wouldn't be listed separately and flagged as one or the other. The descriptions on that product sheet define them as two different battery technologies, which they are.

If you do an Internet search for "AGM vs. gel cell" I think you can get some hits from battery sellers on more details. For example, concise reading here: battery types

X2 as a company appears to offer two technology types: AGM, and Lithium Iron Phosphate.