Yesterday I power washed my boat and carpet on my 2008 Triton Tr-186, Now I have no power on key ignition and my trim no longer has power.

My trolling motor and dash lights, navigation and radio all work. But when I turn on the key it no longer beeps and does nothing.

Any ideals on where to look to find out what i did? ;(

I would start with checking electrical connections and fuses in area you were using high pressure.

Sirlafalot, a couple of things - remember that the wiring harness for the outboard is essentially separate from the hull wiring. They can connect in a couple of places such as a dash trim switch, depending on how the boat was wired. But for practical purposes, they are independent. The trolling motor is normally completely independent from anything else.

That being said, start your troubleshooting at the battery switch, if the boat has one and all of the terminals around there. You will need to clean each of them thoroughly with a wire brush, then check for ground continuity and voltage. Make sure the switch itself is working if so equipped. Then check the main fuse inside the motor hood. When they fail, everything on the motor, including the tilt will not work. If that is OK, then check the key switch. It should have power all the time on one of the terminals and key turning off and on should power up the rest of the terminals, except the one to the starter solenoid. That one of course requires the key to be turned to start vs. run.

You will need a voltmeter for this.

Let us know what you find and we'll go from there.

Should there be constant power at the starter solenoid where the battery cable connects to it? I tested both large cables and there is no voltage. Trying to work my way back from motor to battery. There was a yellow box kind of shaped like a ice cube that had 4 fuses in it inside the EFI 150 outboard , I checked all those with a Ohmmeter and all the fuses were ok.



Could it be the 40amp hi amp fuse or would that kill all the power elsewhere?

The answer to your question is normally 'no' with the key off. But with the key 'on', the red wire should have ~13.4 volts. Power on negative ground DC systems like a typical boat should go directly from the battery to a main switch, which you see in your last picture above. Take that panel off and trace the positive and ground wires. You are testing for ground continuity, ~13.4 volts on hot wires, and on/off 13.4 volts where a switch is in the circuit. You will also notice the auto bilge there. Those circuits are in parallel directly to the battery and at the bilge switch. That way, the pump will run automatically if the bilge fills with water and/or from the switch panel. That circuit is completely independent from what you are working on.

Also, yes your high amperage fuse could have popped. Some are resettable, some have to be replaced. Just test continuity there as well.

I found it, I blew a 20 amp fuse . Fixed and working again.