Good Evening guys

I have long considered adding reverse lights s just aft of my trailer fenders. I tend to launch early and with the length of the truck and the 23 Ft trailer it is pretty dark back there.
I saw one trailer launching this weekend with them but I was on the water already.
I know that would require a 5 pin connection or adapting the 7 pin trailer connection for the travel trailer.

Any opinions ideas or advice from the group would be appreciated

Does your trailer have only a 4 pin flat connector? (Most trailers with disc brakes today have 5 active conductors that includes a reverse lock-out solenoid via the reverse signal.) If you have disc brakes, I'd expect you have the reverse signal already (typically a blue or purple wire that attaches to a solenoid in the tongue area of the trailer.

From your post, it seems you already have a standard round "RV type" receptacle on the tow vehicle. If so, adding back-up lamps is easy.

You can just switch the boat to a 7 pin RV type connector and it will plug into your tow vehicle just the way it is. Each conductor going to your 4 pin connector has a standard assigned position on the 7 pin plug. You'd put the 5th one on the center pin, which is the Reverse. Be sure to connect the Ground wire - do NOT just assume you will get a good Ground via the trailer ball. Note that the view labeled with the color circles is looking at the BACK of the plug where you would connect the wires from the boat.

Thanks for the reply. Yes I have this plug.
I learned this ground condition years back and now my ground goes to the outboard runners to the tow vehicle plug.
Thanks again

You'll need a 5 pin without electric brakes and 6 or 7 with electric brakes.

I have white led lights mounted under the front and back steps on my trailer. Wanted to be able to see more than just behind the trailer and only have the option to run while in reverse, so mine are wired into the running lights with a sealed toggle switch on the front of the tongue. I can see all around my trailer for loading up plus they really light it up when in the water to load in the dark.

If you have a 7 pin connector (the large round one) you could actually wire into the 12V Aux pin with your sealed switch for power which would then allow you to turn on the white LEDs without the necessity of having the running lights on. Either way, that's a good idea I may implement. I have some unused white LEDs sitting on a shelf that need a purpose, lol.

He can still use a 7 pin connector set even if he doesn't have electric brakes. The beauty of going with the 7 pin approach is that every scenario is then covered in advance of need.

I put some IP68 single row Mictuning leds on my trailer and spliced into the the blue wire on my surge brakes. They come on with my reverse lights. I think the leds are a spot flood combo. I mounted them just above my taillights They work great. The IP68s are submersible to 1 meter for a 1/2 hour. This was after I mounted some 12" marine LEDs just behind my fenders that don't do squat.

Thanks guys.
I am looking for led options now.

I have had a trailer stolen in the past. This Master 389DAT trailer lock makes that just about impossible for the average thief. This lock encompasses the tong of the trailer ball socket so it is impossible to hook onto it. Traditional locks are made to secure the tong to the ball by preventing the capture mechanism from being opened. This is a far more robust and effective lock. It is a bit more trouble to get it in place, and I hate to think about losing the key, but it is a very effective lock.

I just did them on my 2014 FX21 and they are amazing.
Towing with a 2012 Expedition.
$45 for he set.

Zoe Latkin & others: Almost all the trailer coupler locks overlook the biggest weakness: Most trailers use a coupler that attaches to the trailer with two 1/2" bolts, all the same bolt pattern. You can put your Kryptonite coupler lock on, but a thief with a 3/4" combo wrench and a 3/4" ratchet can take your coupler off in two minutes, put his coupler on, and be gone with your rig in five minutes, leaving your coupler and high-dollar lock on the ground. You can replace one of the coupler bolts with a 1/2-20 bolt, and use a locking wheel lug nut on it, and they can't take your coupler off without a proper key, or a mini-grinder. They're not gonna fool around grinding off your coupler, or probably have a key to your locking nut. If I had a $50K rig, I'd invest $25 to thwart them. Buy a set of four locking lug nuts, use one on your coupler and three on your wheels. It won't stop the determined thief. Only a S & W or Glock will. YMMV IslandJim

The [url=https://www.ridetheducksofseattle.com/best-boat-trailer-locks/trailer lock is designed for ease of installation and removal. It is unlike others that are prone to be stuck. It has a smooth mechanism with a sliding ball that also makes the lock more reliable even after years of use. I find them easier to use than traditional hook-style locks, which can be difficult to undo, especially when it is cold.