I'd like input from those that have converted to Lithium batteries for your trolling motor batteries and what charger you are using with those batteries?

Looking at this upgrade too, prices still look to high to make it feasible, unless ordering direct from from china.

Look no further than Ionic Lithiums from Andy at Drewcraft. You can get 3-50amps and possibly use your existing charger. Just let Andy know at Drewcraft what charger you are using. I use my minnkota precision charger. I currently have the 3 50amp and they have performed awesome. Why this instead of one 36v or 24v lithium? Should one have an issue for any reason, you can just drop another 12v in its place and keep on going. Big plus.

So the main reasons why I chose Ionic:

1. Can you use my existing charger without buying another, big savings there.
2. Can drop a lead acid 12v in ones place should an issue ever occur with one of the battery's
3. Love the blue tooth technology to check the percent of battery life left

https://drewcraft.com/ionic_lithium-marine_batteries/

Mention my name, Donnie O'Neal and he will give you great deal.

I have no recommendation but you might visit Bass Boat Central where there are a couple of threads on this topic.

Commerical interruptions are the worst. Seriously though, 50 amps is about half of the amps from a standard lead acid deep cycle trolling battery, the 125 amp is over $1000. Even if the last over 10 years, you could still stay under that price point if you bought new 50 amp lead acid battery 2 years and still not hot the break even point. Why would anyone pay that price?

For. 125 ah battery to make sense, assuming a warranty of at least 5 years the price would have to be at the most $500, and around $225 for a 50 amp. Big lipos just don't make financial sense yet for american retailers, but then again from unit cost I'm sure they are marking them up 400% from chinese suppliers, and that from what I've seen alibaba.

I have AMG batteries, but reading here ah on a lithium is different as they hold their initial state where lead batteries don't. And 50 is supposed to be plenty for 1-2 days heavy use. I've never made the switch but there was another thread on this topic recently.

When you start using a Lead Acid battery the voltage starts dropping.

As the voltage drops the amps go up.

As the amps go up the more drain on the battery and the more heat produced in the trolling motor and the wiring.

That, and loose connections, are why you see people asking "Why is my terminals and wiring melting?" and other problems from a bad wiring job.

I really didn't ask for a debate on Lithium batteries. I've seen them in action and I know what they can do. If you don't want to upgrade and your happy with lead acid then keep doing it.

What I asked for was input on a charging system for them.

You might want to do a little more research before you make a sideways remark to someone posting their story of their actual experience related to the topic. I also bought 3 50Ah batteries from Drewcraft for my Trolling motor. This was after using the 135 Ah cranking battery for the last 6+ months to see how it worked. Not only did I take about 200 pounds of weight out of my boat, I also got SIGNIFICANTLY better performance. I can list example after example but the easiest is to look at your remaining charge after usage. I fished a small 50 acre lake for 11-12 hours over 2 days without charging any batteries over the holidays. I only ran the big motor to launch and get out of the water. I run 2 12" Garmins, Force TM and Livescope, which if you've read anything is a big battery drain. Well, I connected to the batteries after these 2 days and the cranking battery was at 72% charge and the TM batteries were all at 74%. Add that to the weight difference, 7 year warranty and about 25% more space in the back of the boat and it's a pretty easy decision, at least for me.

Forgot to address the charger question. If you have a newer precision charger where you can select an AGM setting that delivers enough amps while charging you should be fine with it. I alo have the MK Precision charger like stated above and its charges them great. If you don't, then Relion sells their own charger for about $250 if I recall.

Thanks Chris..

I'm often busy at the shop but anyone can call below and I can give my spiel on lithium batteries. We are an Ionic dealer as well and are cost competitive. They're excellent. We love them for the weight loss, cause GO FAST! Ionics have the neat phone app. Lithiums hold amp hours a little differently than lead acids as well. 50ah is sufficient for all but the most serious trolling guys who I have go with the 100ah. I personally am actually only running 2 35ah batteries in my Allison. I've never killed them, however I'm not that serious of a fishermen. An 8 hour tourney day for me happens every once in a while but is rare. I run a stealth charger.

I have been using 3 50ah Ionics for about 6 months, 36V Ultrex. Lowest I’ve gotten is 68% and that was last week in strong 20-30 mph winds using spotlock, fished for over 7 hours. Usually I’m at 80% plus after 8 hours of fishing. Unless you’re fishing in strong current the 3 50ah batteries are more than enough I think. I’m not sure how the 24v trolling motors and 2 50ah batteries perform so that might be something to research or someone else to give advice on. I’m thrilled with the Ionics so far and really like the Bluetooth app.

As far as chargers I’m using the same MK Precision charger I used before I got lithium’s. After a full day of fishing the lithium’s charge very fast, another thing I like about them.

I understand your not suppose to charge them till they get down to 40% at least. Is this true?

Not from what I was told..
For your OP---I've had three 50AH ionics for troller and a 31 series AGM for starter going on two years now.. Have used the 4 bank NoCo with great results.

I will be by to see you very soon!

Im using the Ionic Lithium also but 3 -100ah for the same reasons you are. Spent 6 hours on the lake testing my new Ghost and when i got back to ramp my batteries were at 94%. Impressed with Ionic!!

Minn Kota 460Pc will charge Ionic batteries with 15 amp per 4 banks. I can reach a 100% charge on the Ionic with 2 hours of charging

That would be good. Lithiums do not like to be fully charged and sit. If I was fishing once a week I'd charge the batteries just before I went.
Forty to sixty percent and they will live longer.

I don't see how this technology could possibly be safely feasible right now. I'm not read up on it at all, so take that with a grain of salt, but I have knowledge of lithium batteries in RC cars and you have to walk on eggshells charging those. The other concern I would have is the integrity of the batteries themselves. A lot of times with the RC Lithium batteries when they get damaged from bumping around and tend to puff out making them dangerous and oftentimes, unusable. I wonder how the current lithium's will hold up to pounding that the lake will put on them.

Strange I never had a single issue when I raced off road rc cars. And that was in the 90s Im sure the batteries are better now. I still have my rc car from back then and all my batteries still work fine in fact every time I get it out which is about once every 7 years.

hmm, seems waiting until 40% contradicts the idea of having lithium batteries with a power pole charge.

My Ballistic came with K2s which are made in Vegas I believe. They use a conventional charger and I've yet to see them stresses after fishing hard for two days in good winds. Very remarkable product, IMO.

P.S. Mine sit fully charged 24/7.

I switched to this battery 4 months ago and added a powerpole charge. I have run my ultrex all day covering a small lake and never had any issues. 1 batter replaced 3, great warranty, and best price i've found. I talked to the owner and he explained why his price is better than anyone. He doens' have to run ads or pay pro staff, same technology as the others.
https://ampedoutdoors.com/products/60ah-36v-trolling-motor-lithium-battery-lifepo4

This is a young guy who knows his stuff when it comes to boats and accessories. PM me a price list on what you have Trace! Or post it if you want. Just got a Basscat Eyra and have a 36volt system with a MK 440 PC charger.

Trace said he doesn't get on very often and to contact him.

I am planning on going by very soon if you don;t have time to check with him I'll let you know when I get by there.

I only need 2 - 50A's for my Ultrex and I might go ahead and swap over the charger as well if the Ionic one weighs a good bit less.

Trace is a good dude, he is very busy there, last I knew it was him and one guy working etc.

I used one 36 volt Lithium Battery Power (LBP) for my trolling motor and one 12 volt Deka AGM for my starting and graphs. I charged them with the Power Pole Charge. I used this set up all last year with heavy tournament use and loved it. Not one issue. Light weight and it will last forever within long warranty. PM me if you want to hear more and where to purchase locally. https://www.lithiumbatterypower.com

24V for starting and graphs?

Newer technology vs. what you heard from the early stages of lithium have come a long ways and are much safer than the earlier, more volatile versions.

Back when I raced RC cars (2000's until 4-5 years ago) LIPO technology available at that time came in soft packs, could get damaged easily and catch fire, catch fire while charging, etc... I watched as off-road RC cars landed wrong, shut down, and caught fire and thought, glad I race Nitro cars... lol

You know who else used to be one hell of a RC car driver, Jeff Welch of Bass Champs. We use to race together when we were kids. lol





Technology has improved and most chemistries you see used now is LiFePO4 which has proved to be much safer, less volatile, and are mostly encased in hard shells to keep from getting damaged.

https://medium.com/battery-lab/a-lifepo4-battery-vs-lithium-ion-polymer-battery-6a028111efa3

Lithium-ion polymer (LIPO) battery
A lithium ion polymer battery is a kind of rechargeable battery that mainly relies on the movement of lithium ions between positive electrode and negative electrode to work. Lithium ion batteries use an intercalated lithium compound as an electrode material. At present, the commonly used cathode materials for lithium ion batteries are: lithium cobalt oxide (LCO battery), lithium manganate (LMO battery), lithium-ion ternary (NCA, NMC battery), and lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4 battery).


Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4, LFP) battery
A lithium iron phosphate battery is a type of lithium ion polymer battery that uses LiFePO4 as the cathode material and a graphitic carbon electrode with a metallic backing as the anode.
The LiFePO4 battery, also called the LFP battery, is a type of rechargeable battery. It is the safest Lithium battery type currently available on the market today. It is made to be small in size and light in weight, and the cycle life can reach thousands of cycles.

I was too nervous at first , along with the price of these batteries, and held off for some time but finally decided to make the change. I run REliON batteries now, (2) RB-100 (100Ah) for trolling and I run a RB-100HP for cranking and electronics and absolutely love them. I also recently added the Power Pole Charge and now only plug into shore power every once in a while to make sure everything balances properly.

Lots of $ spent but well worth it to be on the water as long as I want without any worries.

I currently have 3 batteries for 36v ultrex , what is my best bet for weight reduction and what is best cranking battery option for weight reduction also ? Thanks

I have been eying switching to lithium. The thing holding me back is the cranking battery ordeal. I don't want to have mixed batteries, either all agm or all lithium.

There is no starting battery ordeal, you buy a lithium with a starting profile....

Which battery ?

I can speak for RELiON batteries:

For cranking applications use the following:
https://relionbattery.com/products/lithium/rb100-hp

Our RB100-HP is a dual-purpose 12V, 100 Ah lithium battery. Our HP Series batteries are high performing dual purpose deep cycle batteries that can handle both starting and cycling. The RB100-HP has increased peak amps over our standard batteries. This increase in peak amps can be used to start motors, electric start generators and other high amp draw devices. After starting, the battery can double as a house battery providing power for peripherals, accessories and other onboard needs.

For Trolling motor batteries I use the following:
https://relionbattery.com/products/lithium/rb100

Longer runtime = more recreation time with the RB100. This 12V 100Ah deep cycle lithium battery is the perfect replacement from a group 31 AGM, GEL or lead-acid Battery. Weighing in at only 30 lbs it’s a lightweight alternative to lead-acid and one of our most popular lithium batteries.

Any lithium batteries made in the USA ?

What is the problem with Lithium for troller and AGM for starting and accessories? Assuming charger can handle mixed profiles.

AGM you can leave plugged in 24/7/365. I have read lithium is best stored not plugged in and not fully charged.

I can't bring myself to spend somewhere between 2-10 times the cost of an AGM to save a few hundred pounds. Bass fishing is expensive enough as it is. I am thankful to you pioneers who are helping advance the technology though. Due to your sacrifice this technology will one day be affordable.

No

Trying not to support china anymore , will be tough though as they make almost everything.

We you can thank our governments environmental regulations for this.

So weight wise you're talking about saving approximately 25 pounds per battery with a 29 size? Is that about correct? I'm considering them, but have never had real issues with most lead acid batteries. I don't fish as much as I used to but still get out 50 - 60 days a year. Most of my lead acid's have lasted at least three years and some of them 4 or just a little longer. Trying to justify the price vs the weight advantage and for me (again, just for ME) I can't see it until lithium's get MUCH cheaper.

To each his own people are on here weekly asking about new agm batteries etc...

Ive never seen a thread where someone had to replace their lithiums....

I like to save money, buy lithiums once for the rest of your life unless your fishing every single day for the next 14 years you wont get to the number of duty cycles lithiums are supposed to be good for at a minimum.



lithiums are already down to 350 that is LESS than I paid for my last agm start battery.

It's a MUCH bigger weight difference than that. Typical lead acid cranking and deep cycle trolling motor group 29's weigh about 60# each or 240# for a 36V TM set up with a cranking battery.

My Ionic 135Ah cranking battery weights about 25# then the 50Ah trolling motor batteries weigh about 6.5# each or roughly a combine total of 45# which is obviously about 200# less than the other set up.

And for the question about cranking "issues". There aren't any as long as the one you buy has been programmed to support higher CCA's when starting the motor. I only know of 2 that have this set up today but I am FAR from an expert on these.

Ionic start battery 125ah is 32#. 50ah are 15 # each.

15+15+15+30 = 75#

The weight was the last of my concerns. I wanted the lack of voltage drop and 5000 plus cycles.

Lithium’s are the best you can get if you are using trolling motor hard all day. I have 3 Dakota 100ah trolling motor batteries and with ghost and 520 ranger on set on 8 in the wind for 8 hrs it never lets up all day. Have a Ionic 4 bank charger and a Ionic 125ah cranking battery and even after 10 hrs it has never had to charge over 2 hrs. The weight difference did not change speed at all going from 4 group 31 agm batteries. Plus with with the Dakota it has 11yr warranty and I bought there golf cart pack and saved money. Would never go back to a lead battery.

Here you go, cheapest lithium start battery Ive ever seen

799

https://www.monstermarinelithium.com/product-page/1300cca-100ah-cranking-lithium


It appears they have a blue tooth app etc.

$799 actually.

yeah theres another one that has 1700cc 899, I changed the link to the cheaper one.

No one answered my question so let me tie it back to the post I was addressing and reword it.

Is there a problem with Lithium for troller and AGM for starting and accessories? Assuming charger can handle mixed profiles.

No

There is no problem with agm cranking and lithium’s trolling. My partner has agm cranking and 3 battle born 100ah n works great.

Can you get just one battery for a 36v set up , if so what do you recommend ? Thanks

Yes, there are options.

If you click some of the links provided there are some listed.

Monster Marine
https://www.monstermarinelithium.co...ing-battery-mml-3640-no-built-in-display
- I think I saw somewhere where the Monster Marine rep said they would have a 36v/50Ah available soon too.

Lithium Pro's offers a 36v single solution as well.
https://www.lithiumpros.com/product/m3165-36ck-36v-65ah-trolling-battery-kit/


As far as keeping your AGM for cranking and lithium for Trolling, yes you can do that. The only issue you will run up against is that you will need to have separate chargers, one for you AGM/one for your trolling motor batteries. The AGM will need to stay and cycle on the charger between uses but once the lithium's are charged you can remove from the charger and they can go for months before loosing a very small % of charge.

Best deal I have seen , 899 $ for a 36v battery and going to free up 200lbs .. sold .

I wouldnt want to use less than 50ah for trolling motor batteries, that said some guys do use 35 or 40 but they only fun fish for sure.

30 day money back guarantee , will give it a try.

Im not a fan of one battery like that. I travel a lot if it had a issue I would be buying 3 to keep going. w 3 separate batteries if one has a issue I can buy just one and keep going.

50ah are small and are as low as 350 ea on amazon

Be willing to bet it would be better than my current setup (3 continental group 31 and fish sun up to sun down ) and last longer .

$150 more for 3 50 ah seems smarter to me, but to each his own, just trying to help you out.

Ive had my lithiums 3 years, my 50ah shut off on me once, a windy day 12-15mph, on tm or spot lock all day, no talon use.

IF that 40ah doesnt cut it, youll be forced to buy another 40ah or sell it for a loss...

I just switched to Ionic batteries this week and can’t wait to try them out. They are super light and the Bluetooth app is pretty cool. What gets me about some people is they have $50,000-80,000 for a boat and $2500 trolling motor $5000 in graphs and $3500 in power poles, but won’t spend the money on lithium battery and head to Walmart for the cheapest battery they can get away with LOL!

Awesome information here. Great post.

The major problem I see with a lithium starter battery is Mercury recommends and AMG for starting purposes... I'd hate to have a problem and have Mercury turn down a warranty claim because I used the wrong type battery... Everyone preaches get a used boat with warranty still left, or purchase the extended warranty... Well, if you're gonna go to all that trouble, and money, only to void the warranty on the engine... I'm like a lot of guy on this topic... Until lithium batteries price come down I'm staying with lead batteries... And, if they ever do come down to the price point of lead they'll have similar warranties... Dan

BOOM this went down last night. Swapped out the 3-50amp for the 100amp. Highly recommend the Ionic Lithiums. You can get them from Andrew at Drewcraft.com. Ran them for 2 years and not one problem. Upgraded to the larger ones as I will be fishing the NPFL tour this year and cannot wait. If you have questions, just let me know....tight lines.

The warranty is not voided.

Yes. Simple question: Total price “out the door” for the 3-100amp batteries? TY

You selling your old ones or did you trade them in?

There are 100ah lithiums on amazon for 536 each, 10 year warranty... yes they are all from china in fact you can get the ones Ionic has branded in any color you want and call them yours.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...WD18ADDG8ouYXS03xqOs4Whsq_xoCIqQQAvD_BwE

Jeff do you have a link for these $536 100ah batteries? The link above is not them. Thx

yes sorry, 539 two errors

I just search 100ah or whatever ah you want.. lithium battery on amazon and ebay there are new cheaper options popping up weekly it seems.

https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Batt...a1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Here is another 536.99


https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Batt...a1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Jeff, not saying for a second that these aren’t the best batteries available......but “CHINS”? Man IDK!!! 🤔🤪 JK! Prices are really dropping.....

THE cells ALL come from China.


Ionic are from China totally assembled etc, You can buy from china if you want yourself and dictate the color of the case you want, min order is 100 units. Call them the TFF Lithium!!

Correct. All these brands you are seeing are mass produced in China and shipped her with some resellers name slapped on them. Go ahead and buy American made. Probably superior products, but closer to triple the price for the same batteries.

So if you buy one of the cheap lithiums without a Bluetooth app to show battery life, how do you keep it charged? Do you just leave it plugged in all the time like you would an AGM?

your charger indicates when they are fully charged, no app needed whatsoever.

I charge my 12 volt with a dual pro 30 amp charger when its full it give power to my stealth charge on the run and that charges the 36.

New 4 stroke merc have amazing charging system, 1o minutes at a high idle added 8 percent to my 125ah start battery.

I'm not aware of any American manufactured Lithium technology marine battery. Corporate representatives of one of the suppliers admitted this to me. While none are made here, what you can get from elsewhere does vary in quality (by way of technical specifications and quality oversight by the label brand seller).

Supposedly battle born are assembled here and meet some kind of quality rating. Over my head, so cheap is what I’ll buy.

May be assembled here but all components come from China and they have a poor customer service reputation

I’m really thinking about buying a 36v lithium for my Champion, I don’t have hardly any room in the back with my 3 group 29s. I have never ran my 3 29s down so what Ah would y’all recommend. I’ve seen 40,50,60. I’m leaning towards 60 just to be on the safe side. Order that and get another for cranking later down the road.

Could be, I don’t keep up with that brand. I’m either going with Millertech or Ionic, since they both have a way to tell the charge status.

They determine charge status via interpretation of a digital voltmeter reading feature built into the BMS (Battery Management System). Anyone wishing to check the charge of a battery that doesn't have an app-enabled voltage reading feature can do so with their own voltmeter. I may wire up 3 DPDT momentary switches to a panel mount digital voltage display to get the same thing. A battery supplier usually has a table indicating the voltage level for various charge curve points.

If you happened to be an angler who runs down 3 Group 29 batteries, I would expect that angler would be sorely disappointed with a single-case 36V solution - ANY of them. The scenario in which the most gain is realized is when replacing an equal number of batteries with Lithium technology at a similar Amp-Hour rating. For instance, if you run 3 100AH AGM batteries, and you go with 3 50AH Lithium batteries, you may be fine if you are a casual fisherman, but if you fish hard, expect to run out of juice at about the same point as you had been previously. Where you get the boost is when replacing 3 100AH wet cell batteries with 3 100AH Lithium batteries, for example. The reason for the boost is that the Lithium cells keep delivering power longer (than wet cells) - their discharge curve is delayed but sharp once it is tripped.

Yes, Pros use the single-case 36V battery solution, but I have never seen one who did it with just ONE of those batteries. The guys happiest with Lithium are typically ones that do the replacement in the 1 for 1 upgrade. The 3 battery swap upgrade provides 100AH in a 36V system. That's far superior to a case where you hope that 60 AH @ 36V will be enough. Note that most 100AH Lithiums are in a Group 27 case, smaller than your Group 29, helping with space.

Why do you need charge status, your charger blinks green when they are charged. The app is stupid, I have a ionic start battery due to wanting the 125 ah for good measure but I havent used the app after the first two days I fished 11 hours with no big engine to make sure it could take it, now that I know it can no need to worry about it.

50 ah would be better than your old batteries.

I have never killed my 50ah, if your worried about it get a stealth charge on the run.

My end goal is to take my 2006 model boat and bring it to present day. I am leaning towards the single 36 to clear room to move my PP pumps around and upgrade my 12v starting/electronics battery to a min 31 size or future Lithium so I can rewire boat and get better graphs. As it sits now the electrical system SUCKS horribly.

Why would we need gas gauges, same concept here. They aren’t supposed to be charged after every use and I’d like to know when it’s getting low.

Same for the TM batteries, do you just guess when they are getting low and need recharged.


The app might be stupid, but it still has its purpose.

Seems like information gets more confusing(and conflicting) every day. Maybe it’s partially because people spew out information they only heard somewhere and quote it as fact? 🤔🤪 Now I’m hearing(on the TFF also) DO NOT plug your lithium battery’s into a charger until they are down to a certain point, life is shortened by storing them “full”, blue tooth monitor them so you know when to charge......Not for one second saying lithium’s are not the future of batteries but DANG some of this information makes it sound confusing. While I don’t like the “limited” life and weight of my big/heavy group 29 AGM’s I sure do like plugging in my onboard “automatic” 4 bank MinnKota charger when I get back from the lake and then never thinking about it again until I leave for the lake the next time.

Umm nobody any place says not to charge them after every use. NOBODY., you most certainly can charge them after every use... for long term storage (6 months) they suggest not storing them full.

You would plug in after each trip and unplug a day later or whenever all your charger lights show green then your ready to go, no need to top them off again before you go.

Is there anyone that is running a single 36v that can give some information on it ?

Can you leave them plugged in 24/7/365 like an AGM?

”Crickets”

They are yours, you can do whatever you want with them.

A smart charger isnt going to over charge them etc, But there is no need to leave them plugged in forever as they dont lose charge while sitting etc.

[/quote]”Crickets”
[/quote]


Your on the internet, why cant you search yourself?

https://drewcraft.com/

Not sure why I’m wasting my time arguing with you, but here I am. Keeping a lithium at full charge will shorten its life, it’s a fact, google it if you don’t believe me. Every manufacturer will tell you that you do NOT want to keep it charged at 100%. They all say to charge it before use.


For anyone thats “confused”...don’t listen to Jeff, listen to the guys that sell the batteries.

HAHA I have to click on unblock you to see your post, Ive had you on ignore forever.

Charging on SATURDAY after fishing and going the next time SATURDAY is charging before use, That is not long term storage.

AGAIN they say not to store them fully charged for long periods of time 6 months or more...

I have not seen anyone say it will shorten the life by storing them charged, they would have to be around for 20 plus years already to know if it actually hurts them which they havent been... Not that it really matters since they are good for 5000 plus cycles or approx 20 years if you fish EVERY day, and every day you discharge them low enough that it even counts as a cycle...

What brand lithiums do you have?..



I was a Ionic dealer when they first came out, but then they quickly raised the price and the profit per unit was not worth answering one question much less 10 from anyone.

Well Jeff, not sure why you would have me ignore, since I tend not to bicker with you. There’s times I agree with you and times that I don’t. Also not sure why you asked “what brands I own”, because I literally just said a few post back that “I was interested in Millertech and Ionics because they display the available battery life”. And then...here we are back to the current discussion about the “do and don’t”. I agree with you that they haven’t been out all that long for some of their claims, but I can tell you and you can google it too, that after reading a billion pages on BBC that it’s not “supposed” to be good on lithiums to charge them after every outing.

There are many things that throw red flags with lithiums. Warranty claims, which are only good if the business is still around. Charging profiles that have to be met. Claimed number of cycles...

I was looking at the ReLion Trackers that BPS/Cabela’s carries due to knowing that ReLion has been around for awhile now. These batteries only carry a 3 year warranty and say do NOT use with the power pole charge or Stealth 1 systems. Makes a person wonder “why not”? This is the only brand I’ve seen say that. Was there an issue? Fire, short out????

Call Danny at stealth and ask him why they would say that.

If you make me guess it’s because the stealth charges at 36v not 3 x 12.

I have Relions for my tm. I waant Worried about cost or warranty relion had been around. Now that I know they all come from China I would Buy the cheapest and call it good.

The ones I posted On here earlier from monster have 10 year warranty if that is important to you.

I just Reply to the most recent messages I already Forgot any message two above this One.

Your on the internet, why cant you search yourself?

https://drewcraft.com/[/quote]
Why does “abrasive” have to be your MO? ChampionDon said “If you have any questions just let me know”. I have a question. “How much were his 3x100ah batteries?” The drewcraft.com website states “call for pricing”.

Your on the internet, why cant you search yourself?

https://drewcraft.com/[/quote]
Why does “abrasive” have to be your MO? ChampionDon said “If you have any questions just let me know”. I have a question. “How much were his 3x100ah batteries?” The drewcraft.com website states “call for pricing”. [/quote]


Why not call him then or email him or pm him..... Its not that complicated. How lazy can you be? There are lots of links in this thread with prices. There are a good 20 different batteries on amazon w prices.


If abrasive = captain obvious that is me guilty as charged.


the price is on the website 999. ea

https://drewcraft.com/product/100ah-12v-ionic-lithium-battery/

CALL for discount.

I could look and tell you what he quoted me on 100A and 50A's but it was a few months ago.

The price was $1650.00 delivered but that price might have changed?

It absolutely in the best interest of the battery service life to charge after EVERY use, whether the charge level is 30% or 90%. I have no clue where you get the "They aren't supposed to be charged after every use" thing - Lithium doesn't develop a memory like Ni-cad cells did 30 years ago. You will be best served if you charge any battery technology we use in fishing after every use. Let that charge indicator on the charger tell you when the battery is happy - right after every trip, not the night before you go out again. Just because you "can" get 2 days of use out of a set of batteries doesn't mean it's better to not charge them when you have the chance.

Really huh, guess these guys don’t understand their specialty. There is even a chart if you don’t want to read it. I guess you’ll try to say “charge them, but don’t fully charge them”... as if any charger will stop before they are 100%. If you don’t want to believe that link, there’s plenty more on the web. Now I know that some of you guys have more money than others and spending $1300 on a battery is nothing for you; but I think I’ll follow the “recommend” guidelines to make my purchase last as long as possible. But in the event, you just want to throw away some money, buy me one and I’ll charge it however you tell me to.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/electrek.co/2018/05/04/are-you-killing-your-lithium-batteries/amp/







Might as well add another one for you, seems it’s too hard to use google.

You realize a cycle is full discharge and full re charge, I have only ever killed my batteries once (full discharge) to see how long it really was going to take etc. So my batteries have had many partial cycles which would be the case for everyone running them.

Relion and most others say 5000 plus cycles..... That is more than enough for my lifetime even if EVERY time I fish was a full cycle (full discharge, recharge). Fishing 100 days a year equals 50 years.....



Your way over complicating something that is not complicated. Charge and store them however you want and they will still last 14.75 years if you fish EVERY SINGLE DAY to full discharge and recharge.

The lithiums are cheaper now than the last group 31 agm optima batteries I bought.

These on ebay are Dirt CHEAP

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOBattery-12V-24V-36V-80AH-LiFePO4-Deep-Cycle-Battery-for-Trolling-Motor/284142963189?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3De0ae1def7aa64725b3363ec7f885ea62%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D184166142361%26itm%3D284142963189%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A1cb13b91-5d86-11eb-bf10-a67b300126cd%7Cparentrq%3A2f9dee391770a77dc9f79568ff896b56%7Ciid%3A1

100ah 499
80ah 399
50ah 275

Jeff, you've hit the nail on the head as to the definition of the "charge cycle". It's about the "swing" in charge level, NOT the peak charge percentage. If your normal use takes your batteries from 100% to 75% in a day, then you recharge, that is far superior for service life than if they go from 100% to 25% (a 75% swing) because you didn't recharge between two days of fishing.

I'll admit, I haven't recently visited some of the links posted in this thread lately, and have never visited some of them. I'm sure there's some good info, and I'm sure there's some not so good info. There's also the range in ability to judge what you find, and make technical sense of it; some are more skilled at this than others. This isn't meant to be a slam on anyone - it's like a known fact that doctors and pro baseball players don't make good pilots. You're good at your own specialty more so than something outside your purview. A great outboard mechanic isn't always a great brain surgeon & vice versa.

Everyone is free to do as they wish with their own batteries and I won't lose sleep over it. But, I'm probably not at a disadvantage in making my own conclusions on things electrical, given my 40 year career as a formally trained electrical engineer. It hasn't steered me wrong yet.

Lol, I’ll stick with the advice of the battery manufacturers and their advice is to “not top off the battery” after every use, if it’s not low. I know Jeff has more fishing time than many of us, but not everyone gets to fish everyday and therefore their batteries would sit charged for days or weeks, which is not recommended.


Jeff, I know many of the TM lifepo4’s are cheap now, but my interest is only in the crankers. They are $1k to $1300, which is a lot of money to many of us and then add in the additional Charger cost. It’s hard to justify the cost, if the battery will only last 3-5 years. Hopefully with proper maintenance they will really last 10+, but no telling what better battery will be out by then.

Does anyone actually know(facts) that the purpose built (high cranking amp) lithium cranking batteries actually last as long as the purpose built “deep cycle” trolling motor type lithium’s?

The crankers are a different breed, a TM lithium type won’t start a motor like a cranker Lithium, they don’t have the power. Kind of a drawback for me and why I’ll keep running lead acid on my TM. I can’t think of the name of it, but I have a switch that lets you change to your TM batteries in the event that your cranker dies. With 100% lithiums, that switch is worthless. One could argue that you can’t make a lithium cranker die though.


No proof that any of them will last, longevity wise and some manufacturers don’t want lithium batts used with their motors; but guys are doing it anyways.

Jeff is running a huge lithium and has multiple graphs, so he can tell us how much longer his lithium last over his old agm though throughout a day though. Have you ever been able to draw it all the way down?

Your jump switch will still work just fine. I put a light on my start lithium to get it almost dead went to the lake and fished until my graphs shut off, which was when the battery shut off to protect itself. I flipped my home made jump switch and waited about 1 minute, flipped it back off and my boat started fine. f you leave it on you could damage the lithium tm battery if its not a start battery.

I have a voltage gauge on my 36 and 12 side and the jump switch doesnt need to charge the lithium or you dont need to start from the tm battery you just need to turn the start battery back on, which hitting it w 12 volts does. my memory is bad but I believe it showed 11.2 after being turned back on and it started my 4 stroke mercury fine.

I posted a link to start batteries that are 799 in here already that is not 100-1300. https://www.monstermarinelithium.com/product-page/1300cca-100ah-cranking-lithium

AND you dont have to have a lithium charger I used my normal charger for the first year, the lithium one only charges faster.

A solution I'm pondering for "if/when I need it" is to continue to keep/run a honker AGM for the boat's main battery, but to segregate the bus feed to my electronics fuse panel. (I wired my boat's electronics this way to give the option.) That would let me easily add a 5th battery that would power electronic accessories only. That battery could small/light, such as a 50AH Lithium. If that 50AH battery ever did fail to last a full day, I could easily move the single bus wire feeding the dedicated electronics fuse panel over to the AGM for the remaining fishing time.

Only a engineer would come up with a solution for a problem that does not exist. Adding a 5th battery is stupid and not needed they sell batteries that will meet your needs.

If youve got any common sense at all youll be the first engineer Ive ever met with any.

How low can you go:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Renogy-12V-100AH-200AH-Rechargeable-Deep-Cycle-Hybrid-GEL-Battery-Solar-Marine/274398651684?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3Ded01a3f5c3424aaead670bc4be893e8a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D284142963189%26itm%3D274398651684%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DRenogy&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

100ah for $217.

THAT is not lithium.

I have Ionic’s..(125ah starter and 3x50ah TM ). I have this Ionic jumper connected to the 125ah. It’s use a Bluetooth app on my phone to turn it on and jump the starter should I ever need a jump. The jumper is a 5ah and it sole purpose is to jumpstart in an emergency.

You aren't noting that I said "IF". My lost likely suspicion is that the Group 31 AGM will suffice. There's still a chance testing the worst case scenario could show otherwise. A 5th battery that's small, lightweight, and not terribly expensive over time is NOT stupid if I were to learn that running my electrical load for a long day won't do.

If you want to flag stupid, look elsewhere; it certainly abounds in bass fishing. Start with hauling a charger of up to 30 pounds in weight around a lake all day when there are no AC receptacles to power it. The battery I might add weighs half the weight of the charger I removed, and takes up less space. Ridiculous gadgets and solutions that qualify as laughable abound.

Instead of reading carefully (reading comprehension issues?) you chose to assert that I might qualify as "stupid" or "lacking common sense." I assure you the personal attack is totally unfounded, and you must have met some rather pathetic engineers. Actually, that you resort to personal derogatory comment would say that possibly you are the one who lacks common sense? How do you know what my electrical load will be, or how many hours I spend on the water in an outing?

Easy bud. I know my amp load. Apparently you don’t know your own or you would know what you need for a battery.

Either way I’m running 5 12” graphs two live scope two livewells mega 360 hydro wave radio all on one battery. I’ve shared that Info many times.

A 5th battery is stupid if you choose to take that as a derogatory comment about you personally that is on you.

You think you have it all figured out because you took out your charger but talk about carrying a 5th battery.......

You have proven my point about common sense.

Jeff, are you running dual lvs 32’s on the TM or 1 there and one on the transom?

two on tm, one in each view, two screens. Havent had the panoramic view help much if at all yet, but also didnt have it on in the spring. Should be good for bed fish, in Iowa the water is NEVER clear enough to see any fish on beds.