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Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: JacksonBean] #13658016 08/06/20 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JacksonBean

Lowew..... What do you charge an hour? I literally just had an A/C motor lock up.

I’d prefer the peckerheads kept to a minimum and the nipples on the outside.



roflmao


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Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: lowew79] #13658034 08/06/20 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by lowew79
Had to get my AC Fan motor replaced. When the guy wired up the new one he passed some wires through the top of the unit. It wasn't like that before with the old unit. He said he does it this way to keep the wire from getting into the fan blades. It doesn't look right though and I've never seen it done this way on any other AC. Won't these wires wear out in the sun though as opposed to down inside the unit? Photo...


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He would not pay him a dime . He was a sorry excuse for ac guy . Find another service that is ridiculous.
That the way I do it all the time give a break lmao .

Sounds about like this ac heating based hachie I had come out because ac got low on Freon.
I have excellent ac guy he just happened to be on vacation one show.
They came out put some Freon didn’t last a day. Come home hose hot the owner of ac company and tried to tell me to a whole unit in attic can’t remember what’s it called 2500 dollars. My ac guy called told him the deal he laughed needless to say told that service to leave don’t come back.
Two later my ac guy that used 25 years came took apart both out side units cleaned. Checked both units in attic
Then added Freon in the wasn’t working checked the other. Guess what not on problems since.
That was proably 5 y’ears ago.
Just they got a shiny truck doesn’t make them honest.
My ac guy still drives a 90 s. S 10 Chevy truck that Fred Sanford wouldn’t be caught dead in.
So yes there crooks


I got all day I’m retired
Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: lowew79] #13658514 08/06/20 03:26 PM
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lowew79 Offline OP
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do i need to re-route the grounding wire for real? maybe drill a wider hole so it wont rub against the metal?


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Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: Jons3825] #13658529 08/06/20 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jons3825
Originally Posted by lowew79
Had to get my AC Fan motor replaced. When the guy wired up the new one he passed some wires through the top of the unit. It wasn't like that before with the old unit. He said he does it this way to keep the wire from getting into the fan blades. It doesn't look right though and I've never seen it done this way on any other AC. Won't these wires wear out in the sun though as opposed to down inside the unit? Photo...


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This is common, typical, and industry wide. There have been no failures, deaths, injuries, etc related to this practice. The other option is a much more expensive motor that is from the maker of the unit.

Jons, you are NOT making sense with that statement. The two red blade disconnects are a hot and a neutral. The wires come OUTSIDE the case, where the connector pairs are, then goes back INSIDE the case. Ripping the wrong one of those loose will expose 120V AC to someone who may be standing on Earth Ground, resulting in electrocution. IF the two wires come out and then go back IN, why can't they just stay inside the case? The rest of the wire for that circuit is inside the case, and it doesn't "get cut by the fan blade". The wiring for the factory fan motor is routed in such a way it doesn't get in the fan blade. With a generic motor, you're telling us the wire can't be routed the same way? Why not? It does not make sense.

I can understand that the factory motor may have a particular plug/receptacle that's not on the generic replacement part. To handle that, one would cut the pigtail off the old motor, then butt splice it to the wires on the replacement motor - job complete. There's NO NEED tor bring those wires outside the case.

As to no failures, injuries, or deaths, how on Earth would you know this particular data given the millions of units in the US and the 10s of thousands of technicians? You have no idea what's happened with the 18 units at my business, for instance (where some idiot had wired one like that).

Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: lowew79] #13658534 08/06/20 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by lowew79
do i need to re-route the grounding wire for real? maybe drill a wider hole so it wont rub against the metal?

Honestly, you don't need to touch that. If they won't come back out to fix it, you need to call another pro.


Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: lowew79] #13658584 08/06/20 04:48 PM
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I'll call the bluff on Jons3825 for this now as I know what's going on with that gerry-rigged mess. It is NOT "necessary" to do the wiring that way in order to use a less expensive fan motor - i.e., universal motor instead of a more expensive OEM motor. The wiring is done that way for the laziness of the technician, pure and simple - he gets down the road with less effort.

Universal motors can spin either way. Connect the hot and the neutral one way, it rotates clockwise; connect them in the opposite manner, and the motor rotates counterclockwise. He pulls both ends of both wires up through the grill and puts blade disconnects on them and just plugs them together not knowing which way it will rotate. If he guessed wrong, he can unplug and replug to swap the connection, making the motor rotate the correct way for that particular fan blade. For that little shortcut, the technician is bringing a hot circuit that could electrocute outside the case. Does this seem to be a logical way to operate "by the book"?

The ground wire routing? Laziness again! Instead of taking the time to route the wire the same way the original wire was routed, it's just "easier".

The fan motor is supported by a number of struts attached to the framework of the case. The factory wiring often runs out to the motor in a tube typically attached to one of the struts. If the replacement motor is properly installed, it will likely have its wires run through that tube as well. The proper connector would be a waterproof butt splice, as those protect the wire from corrosion, and remove the chance that something could go wrong - we are dealing with 110V AC after all. Before the butt splices are done, the motor would have to be temporarily connected and powered momentarily to see if the rotation is correct. This way, the butt splices get done correctly in one shot. If the butt splices won't go in the tube, the wiring could be cable-tied along the tube inside the case. At no point are any of the three wires carried outside the case.

Those blade disconnects are NOT UV proof, typically. They will get brittle over time and can flake off, exposing 110V AC outside the case. Likewise, a curious child could tamper with them, and end up electrocuted. Those connectors are not waterproof. Water will go in them readily, and corrosion can occur. Resistance could build in the circuit, and the motor might not start, causing winding failure from overheating. Arcing could occur, even jumping to the case of the unit. Does all this sound like a good plan? Do you think an electrical code inspector would say "Aww, shucks, all them AC guys do that - it'll be fine"?

Remember, this is the Internet, and you can be told some wild and crazy things. It's up to you and your sense of what sounds legitimate to know what to believe, or not believe. It's one thing if it's about a fishing knot, which prop to use, or how to set up your sonar unit. For me, it gets serious when I see carp that could cause serious harm to someone one day in the wrong circumstances. If I were nearby, I'd come fix it just to help you out because NOBODY should have something potentially that dangerous - especially if a "professional" has been paid to do the work.

Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: Flippin-Out] #13658645 08/06/20 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Flippin-Out
I'll call the bluff on Jons3825 for this now as I know what's going on with that gerry-rigged mess. It is NOT "necessary" to do the wiring that way in order to use a less expensive fan motor - i.e., universal motor instead of a more expensive OEM motor. The wiring is done that way for the laziness of the technician, pure and simple - he gets down the road with less effort.

Universal motors can spin either way. Connect the hot and the neutral one way, it rotates clockwise; connect them in the opposite manner, and the motor rotates counterclockwise. He pulls both ends of both wires up through the grill and puts blade disconnects on them and just plugs them together not knowing which way it will rotate. If he guessed wrong, he can unplug and replug to swap the connection, making the motor rotate the correct way for that particular fan blade. For that little shortcut, the technician is bringing a hot circuit that could electrocute outside the case. Does this seem to be a logical way to operate "by the book"?

The ground wire routing? Laziness again! Instead of taking the time to route the wire the same way the original wire was routed, it's just "easier".

The fan motor is supported by a number of struts attached to the framework of the case. The factory wiring often runs out to the motor in a tube typically attached to one of the struts. If the replacement motor is properly installed, it will likely have its wires run through that tube as well. The proper connector would be a waterproof butt splice, as those protect the wire from corrosion, and remove the chance that something could go wrong - we are dealing with 110V AC after all. Before the butt splices are done, the motor would have to be temporarily connected and powered momentarily to see if the rotation is correct. This way, the butt splices get done correctly in one shot. If the butt splices won't go in the tube, the wiring could be cable-tied along the tube inside the case. At no point are any of the three wires carried outside the case.

Those blade disconnects are NOT UV proof, typically. They will get brittle over time and can flake off, exposing 110V AC outside the case. Likewise, a curious child could tamper with them, and end up electrocuted. Those connectors are not waterproof. Water will go in them readily, and corrosion can occur. Resistance could build in the circuit, and the motor might not start, causing winding failure from overheating. Arcing could occur, even jumping to the case of the unit. Does all this sound like a good plan? Do you think an electrical code inspector would say "Aww, shucks, all them AC guys do that - it'll be fine"?

Remember, this is the Internet, and you can be told some wild and crazy things. It's up to you and your sense of what sounds legitimate to know what to believe, or not believe. It's one thing if it's about a fishing knot, which prop to use, or how to set up your sonar unit. For me, it gets serious when I see carp that could cause serious harm to someone one day in the wrong circumstances. If I were nearby, I'd come fix it just to help you out because NOBODY should have something potentially that dangerous - especially if a "professional" has been paid to do the work.


Well, that is why i "hid" the connectors in a piece of PVC pipe and taped up the end (as shown). Is the wire insulation itself Sun / elements proof? Do I need to route that through something too? Can I attach the ground wire to the motor housing itself? Or does it need to be attached to the case.

I honestly assumed he WAS using a factory part, I didn't even ask, lesson learned I suppose. As far as letting him come back, I'm not sure I'm comfortable with that if his work is so bad. I originally started this thread to see if this method really is normal, seems like it "ok" but not the best. I really can't afford another pro right now, so I am on my own.

What is the best way to protect that blade connector? It seems every time I hire someone this kind of thing happens, very frustrating.

Last edited by lowew79; 08/06/20 05:40 PM.

Politicians are like diapers, they both need to be changed often, and for the same reason - Unknown
Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: lowew79] #13658649 08/06/20 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by lowew79
Well, that is why i "hid" the connectors in a piece of PVC pipe and taped up the end (as shown). Is the wire insulation itself Sun / elements proof? Do I need to route that through something too? Can I attach the ground wire to the motor housing itself? Or does it need to be attached to the case.

I honestly assumed he WAS using a factory part, I didn't even ask, lesson learned I suppose. As far as letting him come back, I'm not sure I'm comfortable with that if his work is so bad. I originally started this thread to see if this method really is normal, seems like it "ok" but not the best. I really can't afford another pro right now, so I am on my own.

What is the best way to protect that blade connector? It seems every time I hire someone this kind of thing happens, very frustrating.


That will be determined in a court of law when your lawsuit is tried

I would also put a $250,000 claim for mental duress


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Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: lowew79] #13658650 08/06/20 05:45 PM
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i cant afford another AC guy I SURE cant afford a lawyer lol.


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Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: lowew79] #13658652 08/06/20 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by lowew79
Originally Posted by Flippin-Out
I'll call the bluff on Jons3825 for this now as I know what's going on with that gerry-rigged mess. It is NOT "necessary" to do the wiring that way in order to use a less expensive fan motor - i.e., universal motor instead of a more expensive OEM motor. The wiring is done that way for the laziness of the technician, pure and simple - he gets down the road with less effort.

Universal motors can spin either way. Connect the hot and the neutral one way, it rotates clockwise; connect them in the opposite manner, and the motor rotates counterclockwise. He pulls both ends of both wires up through the grill and puts blade disconnects on them and just plugs them together not knowing which way it will rotate. If he guessed wrong, he can unplug and replug to swap the connection, making the motor rotate the correct way for that particular fan blade. For that little shortcut, the technician is bringing a hot circuit that could electrocute outside the case. Does this seem to be a logical way to operate "by the book"?

The ground wire routing? Laziness again! Instead of taking the time to route the wire the same way the original wire was routed, it's just "easier".

The fan motor is supported by a number of struts attached to the framework of the case. The factory wiring often runs out to the motor in a tube typically attached to one of the struts. If the replacement motor is properly installed, it will likely have its wires run through that tube as well. The proper connector would be a waterproof butt splice, as those protect the wire from corrosion, and remove the chance that something could go wrong - we are dealing with 110V AC after all. Before the butt splices are done, the motor would have to be temporarily connected and powered momentarily to see if the rotation is correct. This way, the butt splices get done correctly in one shot. If the butt splices won't go in the tube, the wiring could be cable-tied along the tube inside the case. At no point are any of the three wires carried outside the case.

Those blade disconnects are NOT UV proof, typically. They will get brittle over time and can flake off, exposing 110V AC outside the case. Likewise, a curious child could tamper with them, and end up electrocuted. Those connectors are not waterproof. Water will go in them readily, and corrosion can occur. Resistance could build in the circuit, and the motor might not start, causing winding failure from overheating. Arcing could occur, even jumping to the case of the unit. Does all this sound like a good plan? Do you think an electrical code inspector would say "Aww, shucks, all them AC guys do that - it'll be fine"?

Remember, this is the Internet, and you can be told some wild and crazy things. It's up to you and your sense of what sounds legitimate to know what to believe, or not believe. It's one thing if it's about a fishing knot, which prop to use, or how to set up your sonar unit. For me, it gets serious when I see carp that could cause serious harm to someone one day in the wrong circumstances. If I were nearby, I'd come fix it just to help you out because NOBODY should have something potentially that dangerous - especially if a "professional" has been paid to do the work.


Well, that is why i "hid" the connectors in a piece of PVC pipe and taped up the end (as shown). Is the wire insulation itself Sun / elements proof? Do I need to route that through something too? Can I attach the ground wire to the motor housing itself? Or does it need to be attached to the case.

I honestly assumed he WAS using a factory part, I didn't even ask, lesson learned I suppose. As far as letting him come back, I'm not sure I'm comfortable with that if his work is so bad. I originally started this thread to see if this method really is normal, seems like it "ok" but not the best. I really can't afford another pro right now, so I am on my own.

What is the best way to protect that blade connector? It seems every time I hire someone this kind of thing happens, very frustrating.

I have to go to a doctor's appointment soon. I'll post a reply later. A temporary fix won't be bad.

Re: AC repair, should I have him come back? (picture) [Re: Flippin-Out] #13658685 08/06/20 06:36 PM
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I am glad there are so many " experts" on here that willingly spout off from the hip without a clue. I cringe at just about every " ac help" thread in here as it is only a miracle that someone has not been hurt or killed by the advice given on a fishing forum by people who have zero training. Clearly the guy I am quoting is NOT in the HVAC field, has not worked in a trade, or is just spouting off for some reason. This is as far as this will go. We will not have a pissing contest. the OP asked and it has been addressed. I will leave a parting comment that while the claim these are not UV rated wires or connectors... they last many years in this exact configuration in Texas in the sun and heat and rain.... without failure. So something must be right with them. lol


Originally Posted by Flippin-Out
I'll call the bluff on Jons3825 for this now as I know what's going on with that gerry-rigged mess. It is NOT "necessary" to do the wiring that way in order to use a less expensive fan motor - i.e., universal motor instead of a more expensive OEM motor. The wiring is done that way for the laziness of the technician, pure and simple - he gets down the road with less effort.

Universal motors can spin either way. Connect the hot and the neutral one way, it rotates clockwise; connect them in the opposite manner, and the motor rotates counterclockwise. He pulls both ends of both wires up through the grill and puts blade disconnects on them and just plugs them together not knowing which way it will rotate. If he guessed wrong, he can unplug and replug to swap the connection, making the motor rotate the correct way for that particular fan blade. For that little shortcut, the technician is bringing a hot circuit that could electrocute outside the case. Does this seem to be a logical way to operate "by the book"?

The ground wire routing? Laziness again! Instead of taking the time to route the wire the same way the original wire was routed, it's just "easier".

The fan motor is supported by a number of struts attached to the framework of the case. The factory wiring often runs out to the motor in a tube typically attached to one of the struts. If the replacement motor is properly installed, it will likely have its wires run through that tube as well. The proper connector would be a waterproof butt splice, as those protect the wire from corrosion, and remove the chance that something could go wrong - we are dealing with 110V AC after all. Before the butt splices are done, the motor would have to be temporarily connected and powered momentarily to see if the rotation is correct. This way, the butt splices get done correctly in one shot. If the butt splices won't go in the tube, the wiring could be cable-tied along the tube inside the case. At no point are any of the three wires carried outside the case.

Those blade disconnects are NOT UV proof, typically. They will get brittle over time and can flake off, exposing 110V AC outside the case. Likewise, a curious child could tamper with them, and end up electrocuted. Those connectors are not waterproof. Water will go in them readily, and corrosion can occur. Resistance could build in the circuit, and the motor might not start, causing winding failure from overheating. Arcing could occur, even jumping to the case of the unit. Does all this sound like a good plan? Do you think an electrical code inspector would say "Aww, shucks, all them AC guys do that - it'll be fine"?

Remember, this is the Internet, and you can be told some wild and crazy things. It's up to you and your sense of what sounds legitimate to know what to believe, or not believe. It's one thing if it's about a fishing knot, which prop to use, or how to set up your sonar unit. For me, it gets serious when I see carp that could cause serious harm to someone one day in the wrong circumstances. If I were nearby, I'd come fix it just to help you out because NOBODY should have something potentially that dangerous - especially if a "professional" has been paid to do the work.



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