The motor is a 1977 35hp Johnson 35EL77C. Long story short, I haven't used her in a while, so before today's trip I've replaced water pump, changed L/U unit, cleaned carb etc. I couldn't get it to shift into forward using my control box. I then removed the cable and still it doesn't go into forward gear smooth. I had to wiggle and do it again etc to get it to actually engage in forward. Reverse worked fine both on controls and with controls removed. I also noticed this when I opened the spot to connect the shifting rod. Is this concerning? Don't remember seeing it before. Thanks!
you don't have the bbolt in the coupler in the groove on the shift rod bolt must go into groove in shift rod or you will not get forward gear and eventually it will pull apart
Thanks for the reply. The bolt appears to be in the groove of the rod. I even undid and redid it multiple times yesterday and still wouldn't work. It does seem like what you are saying and I remember having a similar issue in the past, but nothing seemed to work. I even tried holding down the coupler to almost force the rod in. Anything else I should try?
anyone? I know it's not the shift cable because problem is still there with it disconnected. I've loosened the upper screw on the coupler to make sure that it's fully seated, then redid the bottom screw too. Still isn't right (everything was working fine before i took off L/U to do water pump etc. )
My foggy memory is remembering (possibly) there is an adjustment procedure called out in the shop manuals. I know the bolt goes into that groove, but I'm recalling there was something else to check and adjust. You need to order a Clymer shop manual for your motor as an investment if you intend to do the non-major work yourself - not a bad idea. I found them useful for the older outboards I had years ago.
The beige foamy stuff in your pic is unburned fuel. Check your choke lever where it connects to carb it is possible it is installed incorrectly. That is what happened to mine after i rebuilt carb. I have same motor You need to drop lower unit and make sure everything is lined up water pickup tube is fully seated etc. Also make sure when you put lower back on if lower is in reverse make sure shift lever is in reverse also. Hope this helps
My manual choke lever was binding on the linkage somehow and was causing carb to get too much fuel causing the foaming. Wiggle lever and likage make sure its not binding somehow. My motor still ran even with all the foaming but as soon as i unbinded the linkage/choke lever it quit foaming
OK, yeah I know now the choke solenoid is bad because elec choke no longer works. I will wiggle the linkage and see what happens.! Any other advice on the gear linkage /coupler issue!??
Yeah, I have done all that! That looks like water pump service instructions. I am having difficulty in my gears are not engaging when they should. In Nuetral it's in reverse actually. So in the first click forward it actually goes into Nuetral, then I have to click the shifter lever even more forward to engage forward gear